Chris Benvie
Every so often
how do you do it? how hard is it? what do i need?
thanks
thanks
Rear brake replacement
- Thread starter Chris Benvie
- Start date
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sdpatt
Sr. SHO Engr.
You need to remove the wheel and tire, the parking brake cable from the caliper, the caliper and pads and then screw the piston back in with a special two-pronged tool. Compared to the fronts it is quite a bit more effort and requires the special tool. If you just press the piston back in you will damage the caliper's internal mechanism. I don't have the time to give a detailed explanation, but maybe someone else will chime in.
SHOfun 93
SHO Member
Can someone else elaborate? I have heard a needle nose pliers can be substituted for the "special" brake tool... shrug
Rob94
New Member
Needle nose pliers will "work", but it's a bitch to do it with them. Definitely wear mechanics gloves or you'll no longer have skin on your knuckles. Basically, it's like Scott said. Except you do not need to removed the parking brake cables if you are not replacing the calipers. I've done my rear brakes several times, never disconnected the cables. I believe the special tool is $20 at AZ.
SHOfun 93
SHO Member
Thanks Rob! beer
BlackOnBlackATX
New Member
jeremy, dont use needle nose pliars, use a set of channel locks. that will be the easiest for you to do. and remember thats its a clockwise turning motion. its real easy, but you may want a breaker bar on hand in case some of those bolts dont want to move on the caliper. mine came in handy. the "cube" from autozone is a total piece of crap. they may have another one but i didnt see it. the cube i bought didnt even have notches to fit my caliper. total waste of money. i heard napa has an excellent one though. but i myself have never looked for it.
if i can make one strong suggestion though its this: use an inorganic brake pad on the rear. all the organic ones i had squealed like crazy! i changed my pads twice thinking i was nuts or had defective pads. i then switched to raybestos pads last weekend for the rears and no more squeals! thats my 2 cents. let us know how it goes.
<small>[ May 23, 2003, 01:22 PM: Message edited by: BlackOnBlackATX ]</small>
if i can make one strong suggestion though its this: use an inorganic brake pad on the rear. all the organic ones i had squealed like crazy! i changed my pads twice thinking i was nuts or had defective pads. i then switched to raybestos pads last weekend for the rears and no more squeals! thats my 2 cents. let us know how it goes.
<small>[ May 23, 2003, 01:22 PM: Message edited by: BlackOnBlackATX ]</small>
the correct tool is a KD # 3355
you will thank yourself for spending the $15 on that thing...worth its weight in gold for doing rear brakes. I have used the Bendix "Titanium" pads and the Wagner ThermoQuiet pads on the rear of my SHO and liked both of them, the bendix pads started making noise after a year and a half.... but the thermoquiets have been on for a couple years and are still quiet as can be.
Louis
you will thank yourself for spending the $15 on that thing...worth its weight in gold for doing rear brakes. I have used the Bendix "Titanium" pads and the Wagner ThermoQuiet pads on the rear of my SHO and liked both of them, the bendix pads started making noise after a year and a half.... but the thermoquiets have been on for a couple years and are still quiet as can be.
Louis
The Napa tool works great. Its just a round disk that fits on the end of a ratchet. I don't remove the parking cable but I do crack the bleeder to I can turn the piston back in.
It's not hard, just take your time. Also remember to line up the piston so the new pad taps fit into the piston slots.
It's not hard, just take your time. Also remember to line up the piston so the new pad taps fit into the piston slots.
BlackOnBlackATX
New Member
LaTechSHO, when my raybestos pads wear out im gonna look into the wagners and the bendix pads.
ddawson, what brand of pads do you buy? unfortunately neither albany or wagner has tabs on the back of their pads, but it sounds more convenient than not having it.
ddawson, what brand of pads do you buy? unfortunately neither albany or wagner has tabs on the back of their pads, but it sounds more convenient than not having it.
pete c
New Member
I bought the "cube" from AZ. It is a POS. I jhad to grind down the nubs to get it to work. I saw the tool napa carries when I was looking for a set of speed bleeders. It is the ford specific tool. Looks like it would work great.
Definitely spend the extra few bucks for the Napa one.
BTW, I still have not been able to do my rear brakes without taking the e-brake cable off. I can get the caliper off easy enough, just don't have enough room to get it started again. Maybe some of you guys have caliper mounting bolts that are a few threads shorter than mine.
Definitely spend the extra few bucks for the Napa one.
BTW, I still have not been able to do my rear brakes without taking the e-brake cable off. I can get the caliper off easy enough, just don't have enough room to get it started again. Maybe some of you guys have caliper mounting bolts that are a few threads shorter than mine.
Bluto
New Member
Like Rob said get a loaner from autozone.
They let you use it for free. You just have to leave a 35 dollar deposit.
You can keep the tool for there deposit amount or return the tool to get your cash back.
Do it right the first time.
They let you use it for free. You just have to leave a 35 dollar deposit.
You can keep the tool for there deposit amount or return the tool to get your cash back.
Do it right the first time.
when i did my brakes i left the bottom bolt in the bracket so the caliper could rotat upwards. it gave a good way to hold the caliper inplace.
i to did the cube rout. i am going to buy the tool from napa though. since you guys says it works **** of alot better.
i to did the cube rout. i am going to buy the tool from napa though. since you guys says it works **** of alot better.
MNDave
New Member
I've been attempting to replace my rear pads and rotors and using these posts as a guide but need some help. headbang I have the calipers off and out of the way and now can't get the large nut behind the dust cap off so I can slide the rotor off. I dont have a socket bigger than a 1 1/4,I can't believe it's that tough to loosen..What am I missing..a real newbie here that just bought a 91+ and discovering the joys of this great car. Thanks alot.
Dave
Dave
DO NOT...i repeat DO NOT take the spindle bolt off... it is not necessary, our cars do not have hub/rotor assemblies..... you take the caliper off....take the bracket off..... then slide the rotor off of the lug studs... (might have to give it a nudge).... but it is completely unnecessary to take the spindle nut off...you will just be wasting your time and possibly making your life more difficult in the future....
Louis
Louis
projectSHO89
SHOless In St L
As Louis said, do not remove the spindle nut. Put the dust cap back on unless you plan on repacking the bearings.
Your rotor has probably rusted itself to the hub. Use lots of PB Blaster and a rubber mallet to get it loose. Be patient and it will eventually come free.
When reassembling, coat the hub/rotor contact areas with anti-sieze to prevent this problem years down the road.
Steve
Your rotor has probably rusted itself to the hub. Use lots of PB Blaster and a rubber mallet to get it loose. Be patient and it will eventually come free.
When reassembling, coat the hub/rotor contact areas with anti-sieze to prevent this problem years down the road.
Steve
MNDave
New Member
Thanks for the info Steve and Louis.Hope to be mobile soon. Happy Memorial Day. wink
Dave
Dave
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