Random stalling. Have codes. Need some help

[eacyde]

Over the past few weeks my car is randomly cutting out usually while driving. It is normally a blip so fast that the check engine light barely comes on.

Last week it died at a light and it took a few minutes to get it started again.

Last night was the worst. I was rolling on the freeway at 120km/hr. it stalled. The check engine light was on and I had no power. I proceeded to pull over and it started back up and I was on my merry way.

This morning I read the codes as follows:
KOEO
111
211 & 542

KOER
111

SEFI
9

Every SHO I have owned likes to give the 542 and stall out at in-opportune times. I have never been able to fix it. It usually happens on my ATX's when it is hot out. Never in the winter.

Car is
1995 3.2 swapped MTX with 181k KM. I am certain that all maintenance is up to date. This car is tip top.

Am I looking at a fuel pump swap. The fuel filter has 40k KM. I was looking to replace it on my next oil change.

Any insight would be appreciated.


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[luigisho]

Fuel pump codes don't tend to pop up unless there is an actual problem. I would make the assumption that the pump or the electronics in the fuel system are malfunctioning. I would look at pump replacement first electronics secondary

 

[zoomlater]

211 is related to the crank position sensor, do you know how old the sensor is

 

[rubydist]

every single time I have seen a crank sensor code, the crank sensor needed to be replaced to fix it. so, I would bite the bullet and change the crank sensor.

 

[luigisho]

I agree with zoom and ruby and disagree with myself.
It took a while for the memory to pop that (I THINK I REMEMBER) that fuel codes can be thrown when the car stalls without turning off the ignition. This is from discussions posted a long time ago, but I believe this is correct. Crank sensor is probably the highest likely failing component

 

[Off Road SHO]

And cranks sensors rarely go "bad" but they do get gummed up with crud from leaking water pumps and timing belt dust. Also, if hot coolant drips constantly on the insulation of the sensor's wires, the capacitance of the wires may change and give false readings to the PCM. It's an extremely sensitive Hall effect sensor that doesn't like dirty anything.

Tom

 

[rubydist]

most of the ones that I have had to change did not have a leaky water pump issue, they just had a sensor that no longer would work consistently after the engine got hot. and one was nearly new, so there can be infant mortality in these sensors as well.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Could be but there are no electronics in them, just a magnet and a coil. The coil is made of very fine wire (I've heard, haven't taken one apart yet) but expansion and contraction could be causing intermittent opens.

Tom

 

[rubydist]

That's different from my understanding. See:
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/electromagnetism/hall-effect.html

The sensor itself is a semiconductor which senses the presence or absence of the magnetic field generated by the magnet. The magnetic field comes and goes as the shutter wheel passes between the magnet and the sensor. The result is an open/closed (on/off) switch depending on where the shutter wheel is. In the engine world, generally things are triggered on the rising edge of the "on" signal.

 

[eacyde]

The age of the crank position sensor is unknown. My guess is it is the original one from 1993. I didnt change it when I did the swap a few years ago. Sounds like I have a fun weekend ahead of me.

Any tips on changing it without dropping the subframe?

Would it be worth while to swap out the crank sensor first? This sensors age is also questionable.

Are all Crank sensors created equal?

 

[rubydist]

I have never dropped a subframe to change a crank sensor - I have just pulled the wheel, the inner fender, the accy belt, the crank pulley, the covers, the timing belt, and then changed the sensor. In fact, after I did about a million of them, I got so I could change the crank sensor with the timing belt and sprocket in place. But you have to be very careful, because the screws used on that sensor are not magnetic, so if you drop one, you have to take that stuff off to get the screw back... And make very certain you have the gap right so you don't destroy the new sensor and get to do it all over again.

 

[eacyde]

I have never dropped a subframe to change a crank sensor - I have just pulled the wheel, the inner fender, the accy belt, the crank pulley, the covers, the timing belt, and then changed the sensor. In fact, after I did about a million of them, I got so I could change the crank sensor with the timing belt and sprocket in place. But you have to be very careful, because the screws used on that sensor are not magnetic, so if you drop one, you have to take that stuff off to get the screw back... And make very certain you have the gap right so you don't destroy the new sensor and get to do it all over again.

Are all Crank sensors created equal? I found a video on YouTube. Its not the best practice, but I know now what I am in for. He didn't remove the timing belt. There is a notch in the sprocket that allows you to remove the sensor.

 

[luigisho]

Most should work although there have been instances with bad items right out the box. I usually find the most reputable brand available (fairly subjective) and just go with that.

 

[rubydist]

I also have experienced infant failures with the sensors.

Rockauto has Airtex and Standard Motor Products. They are interchangeable in my experience, normal quality level, not great, not poor. Prices have more than doubled since the last time I checked on this part...

 

[luigisho]

And I have heard enough about bad Airtex fuel pumps to avoid most items offered by that brand when possible. Like I said, not scientific, just subjective anecdote based

 

[eacyde]

Well Rock Auto is the cheapest. NAPA want $258 and Auto Value cant even get them.

Thanks all for the help

 

[luigisho]

I think I see one for $112ish at the NAPA online if that is the correct part https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHCSS408

 

[eacyde]

I think I see one for $112ish at the NAPA online if that is the correct part https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHCSS408

Thats the one. I am in Canada so price and availability is substantially different.

I got it from Rock Auto for $128 USD shipped. That equates to $166 Canadian dollars.

Thanks Trump

 

[eacyde]

My crank sensor arrived the other day so I figured I'd pop it in tonite after work. Took about 3 hours and all is well. I drove it all week with only 1 tiny blip. Hopefully it is good for another 100k


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