TankII
SHO Member
Does each valve pair have to be exactly the same?
On the front bank, I have one intake and one exhaust that is one feeler gauge tighter than the rest. None are looser than specification. I'm using my own metric feeler gauge set.
I dread the rear - that's the bank that I think I've got problems with.
I didn't do the valve adjustment at 210K miles, and over time I've had one cylinder that seems to stop the cranking - even with a new battery, it will literally stop cranking. I also am burning oil, and it could be related to the cylinder locking problem (drain-down on a valve guide?). I'm running richer than the computer tells me too - it will reek of gas after a week of daily driving, but not after sitting for months (which I think is why I have a slight rod knock). Yes, I replaced the cats, and the new ones behaved the same - OK for a week, then couldn't keep up anymore. And, it has a consistent hesitation from 2K to 32oo that has been getting worse over time, despite me doing everything else for the 60K (along with the new cats and cat-back). It pulls hard to 7600 RPM (well it did until I heard the rod knock), so it's not a breathing issue overall.
The front bank appears to be fine, all within specifications, though as I mentioned two valves are slightly tighter. I really hope I find a badly out-of-spec valve on the rear bank to justify the engine's behavior.
On my old '94 Honda Accord, all my Plymouth Crickets and Ford 2.6L/2.8L/2.0L motors, it was easier to get them exactly the same. I don't think I'll have too much trouble with this (first time doing it though), I'd like to get guidance as to the necessity.
TankII
1991 Electric Red, 254K miles. One KONI out for repair, doing valve adjustment, will drop pan for rod bearings next
On the front bank, I have one intake and one exhaust that is one feeler gauge tighter than the rest. None are looser than specification. I'm using my own metric feeler gauge set.
I dread the rear - that's the bank that I think I've got problems with.
I didn't do the valve adjustment at 210K miles, and over time I've had one cylinder that seems to stop the cranking - even with a new battery, it will literally stop cranking. I also am burning oil, and it could be related to the cylinder locking problem (drain-down on a valve guide?). I'm running richer than the computer tells me too - it will reek of gas after a week of daily driving, but not after sitting for months (which I think is why I have a slight rod knock). Yes, I replaced the cats, and the new ones behaved the same - OK for a week, then couldn't keep up anymore. And, it has a consistent hesitation from 2K to 32oo that has been getting worse over time, despite me doing everything else for the 60K (along with the new cats and cat-back). It pulls hard to 7600 RPM (well it did until I heard the rod knock), so it's not a breathing issue overall.
The front bank appears to be fine, all within specifications, though as I mentioned two valves are slightly tighter. I really hope I find a badly out-of-spec valve on the rear bank to justify the engine's behavior.
On my old '94 Honda Accord, all my Plymouth Crickets and Ford 2.6L/2.8L/2.0L motors, it was easier to get them exactly the same. I don't think I'll have too much trouble with this (first time doing it though), I'd like to get guidance as to the necessity.
TankII
1991 Electric Red, 254K miles. One KONI out for repair, doing valve adjustment, will drop pan for rod bearings next
