question for alignment Guru's

[pjtoledo]

Recently ordered a set of Ford front tension struts, part # E8DZ 3468 A for my 92 SHO. An instruction sheet in the box states that these are 3mm shorter than the struts used on 86-87 Slo's. This difference in 3mm will increase the caster by 4/10 ths degree. Since an increase in caster will improve a cars tendency to stay on center and track straight, could we put the longer Slo tension struts on, thereby decreasing caster and improving turn in? Or, just use some 3mm shims to lengthen the short ones. Could we use the different lengths to fine turn caster on the bottom, thereby reducing the amount the top of the spring/strut assembly needs to be moved?

Perry Toledo,Ohio

<small>[ December 21, 2002, 12:47 PM: Message edited by: pjtoledo ]</small>

 

[Nook]

Caster is an important thing to be sure is right. Caster, is the front to back angle of the strut. What I do in these situations, is make up a shim for the required thickness to make the change, and put it next to the strut rod/radius arm bushing washer to adjust the caster front to back. Quick, easy, and works like a champ.

I have a stack of plain old washers, matched to the size of the stock strut rod bushing washers, and I just grind them down to the thicknes I need on the side of a big grinder wheel. YOu place them on the outside end of the washer that's there already, on the front or rear end depending on the direction you need to move the strut.

N

 

[pjtoledo]

Nook:
Caster is an important thing to be sure is right. Caster, is the front to back angle of the strut. What I do in these situations, is make up a shim for the required thickness to make the change, and put it next to the strut rod/radius arm bushing washer to adjust the caster front to back. Quick, easy, and works like a champ.

I have a stack of plain old washers, matched to the size of the stock strut rod bushing washers, and I just grind them down to the thicknes I need on the side of a big grinder wheel. YOu place them on the outside end of the washer that's there already, on the front or rear end depending on the direction you need to move the strut.

N

So, you do use the length of the tension strut to adjust the caster? The specs are 2.8 degrees min, 4.8 max, with 3.8 nominal. Seems we could set the caster more towards it's minimum value for more responsive turn in. I'm wondering how jittery or darty the car would be with a lower, but still in spec, caster figure. For adjusting the length, I'd personally go with machine bushings. Better choice of sizes, harder steel, more corrosion resistance. Speaking of corrosion, some of the rods I have pulled off have rusted down to about 2/3 of their original size inside the bushings. I would prefer to adjust the caster with the tension strut and avoid grinding and weakening the top of the strut tower. I'll easily concede that is a pain in the 'ol **** and much more involved that just moving the top around. On the rear of my 92, several years ago I installed some modified "genuine Ford" adjustable arms. Both ends adjustable on all 4 arms. Then I moved the tops of the rear strut mounts out about 1/4", as far as clearance allowed for my 7" wheels. That resulted in a small increase in the rear track and still kept the camber down to about 1/2 degree. I get near perfect wear patterns on the rear now. That last alignment was set up for turnpike cruising, min camber, max caster, zero toe and thrust angle. The Goodyear RS-As have lasted over 5 years now. In the FYI department, the (early) Slo and SHO tension struts are the same diameter, 20mm +/- paint and rust!

Perry Toledo,Ohio

<small>[ December 23, 2002, 11:37 PM: Message edited by: pjtoledo ]</small>

 

[nc89sho]

too little caster will cause the vehicle to wonder and track all over the road. not a desirable feeling. as long as you don't get crazy with it, it's really better to run more caster