dstig1
New Member
I just got through with replacing all my PS hoses (92 MTX). Probably only the pressure hose was leaking, but it was hard to tell and it is all so damn old, I figured it was worth it. I also combined it with re-gasketing my oil pan from my earlier rod bearing replacement as it was leaking a bit as well. This will be a key point.
This may be worth making into a sticky or in the HOW TO section as I am going to link to a couple other key threads that helped:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=57289&highlight=steering
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=53694&highlight=steering
Like Bizzy, I also thought it was my rack replaced 2 yrs ago that was leaking. Nope. Some of this info is from my efforts 2 yrs ago in replacing the rack also.
Key point #1: Getting under the car while someone else turns the steering wheel lock to lock, back and forth (while running) is important to finding the source of the leak, if it is small.
Key point #2: Even though it was clearly not coming from the rack, you cannot find the leak in the PS hose when it is out. Must be a pinprick in a 14 yr-old hose. Point is you cannot tell unless the car is running and someone is turning the wheel to get the fluid pumping through the system.
Key point #3: Recall how I was re-doing the oil pan gasket? The PS system is a LOT easier to work on with the y-pipe out of the way (required to get the oil pan out anyways). The SHOShop version I have allows me to get an impact socket on 3 of 4 exhaust manifold nuts, so it comes off pretty easy. Much easier access to a lot of things from below without the y-pipe there than from the driver's wheel well like for replacing a rack.
Key point #4: it IS a lot easier to work on the rack if you drop the rear of the subframe an inch or so. The subframe bolts are long and allow this without disengaging, but you also need to support the front end of the car correctly to allow the subrframe rear to drop. For most tasks, I usually support it on the subframe at the points where the tension struts pickup the subframe, but that doesn't allow it to drop in the rear, so I moved the jack stands to under the front subframe bolts area when I replaced the rack allowing it to drop. I noticed this time that access from the wheel weel was much worse than when I dropped the subframe to replace the rack 2 yrs ago.
Key point #5: See the second thread above for Bizzy's advice on accessing the lines from above. It is IMPOSSIBLE to access the PS pump fittings from below, unless at least the rack is out (inner tie rod is in the way, bigtime). You probably also need to remove the rear engine mount per sdpatt's thread to access it from below - but you can get it from above. I had to push a lot of wires around and remove that one hose (it's obvious) from the rear of the intake manifold towards the passenger's side, but I could get access with my 18mm open end wrench from there. Note that the new pressure line used 19mm wrenches to install both ends (Powercraft 71829 pressure hose), but not the gear (i.e. rack) to cooler hose 91774 which was still 18mm at the rack (simple hose barb at the cooler). The cooler to resevoir return is just a 3/8" PS bulk hose - no fittings.
Key point #6: Save the PS pressure switch from your old hose as the new one does not include it. (Yes I was OK. I have learned...) In fact, save everything until you have the new parts installed and working, as you never know. Always. The return line from cooler to resevoir was just bulk hose, so did not come with the protective sheath in places where it potentially rubs. I reused those from the old hose.
Key point #7: New hoses have teflon gaskets pre-installed, and that is worth its weight in gold, having had to put new gaskets on the old hoses when I did the rack. It sux.
Key point #8: Make sure the PS hoses are routed outside the rear O2 sensor wire where they turn up, over the tranny or it will not reach the rear O2 sensor connector on the y-pipe. DAMHIKT.
Key point #9: It was easier to access everything with all the PS lines out of there. It may be worth it to change all of them at once. After all, these cars ARE damn old at this point. I did not bother with the short suction tube from the resevoir to the pump as it sees no pressure and I didn't want to mess with it, frankly. If it needs changing, it is much easier than what I just did (but access still sux), but I doubt it will
Key point #10: My SHO...for the first time in years...is not leaking ANY fluids at all. Woo-Hoo!
I will likely come back and edit this when I am less sleep deprived, but here it is for now.
This may be worth making into a sticky or in the HOW TO section as I am going to link to a couple other key threads that helped:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=57289&highlight=steering
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=53694&highlight=steering
Like Bizzy, I also thought it was my rack replaced 2 yrs ago that was leaking. Nope. Some of this info is from my efforts 2 yrs ago in replacing the rack also.
Key point #1: Getting under the car while someone else turns the steering wheel lock to lock, back and forth (while running) is important to finding the source of the leak, if it is small.
Key point #2: Even though it was clearly not coming from the rack, you cannot find the leak in the PS hose when it is out. Must be a pinprick in a 14 yr-old hose. Point is you cannot tell unless the car is running and someone is turning the wheel to get the fluid pumping through the system.
Key point #3: Recall how I was re-doing the oil pan gasket? The PS system is a LOT easier to work on with the y-pipe out of the way (required to get the oil pan out anyways). The SHOShop version I have allows me to get an impact socket on 3 of 4 exhaust manifold nuts, so it comes off pretty easy. Much easier access to a lot of things from below without the y-pipe there than from the driver's wheel well like for replacing a rack.
Key point #4: it IS a lot easier to work on the rack if you drop the rear of the subframe an inch or so. The subframe bolts are long and allow this without disengaging, but you also need to support the front end of the car correctly to allow the subrframe rear to drop. For most tasks, I usually support it on the subframe at the points where the tension struts pickup the subframe, but that doesn't allow it to drop in the rear, so I moved the jack stands to under the front subframe bolts area when I replaced the rack allowing it to drop. I noticed this time that access from the wheel weel was much worse than when I dropped the subframe to replace the rack 2 yrs ago.
Key point #5: See the second thread above for Bizzy's advice on accessing the lines from above. It is IMPOSSIBLE to access the PS pump fittings from below, unless at least the rack is out (inner tie rod is in the way, bigtime). You probably also need to remove the rear engine mount per sdpatt's thread to access it from below - but you can get it from above. I had to push a lot of wires around and remove that one hose (it's obvious) from the rear of the intake manifold towards the passenger's side, but I could get access with my 18mm open end wrench from there. Note that the new pressure line used 19mm wrenches to install both ends (Powercraft 71829 pressure hose), but not the gear (i.e. rack) to cooler hose 91774 which was still 18mm at the rack (simple hose barb at the cooler). The cooler to resevoir return is just a 3/8" PS bulk hose - no fittings.
Key point #6: Save the PS pressure switch from your old hose as the new one does not include it. (Yes I was OK. I have learned...) In fact, save everything until you have the new parts installed and working, as you never know. Always. The return line from cooler to resevoir was just bulk hose, so did not come with the protective sheath in places where it potentially rubs. I reused those from the old hose.
Key point #7: New hoses have teflon gaskets pre-installed, and that is worth its weight in gold, having had to put new gaskets on the old hoses when I did the rack. It sux.
Key point #8: Make sure the PS hoses are routed outside the rear O2 sensor wire where they turn up, over the tranny or it will not reach the rear O2 sensor connector on the y-pipe. DAMHIKT.
Key point #9: It was easier to access everything with all the PS lines out of there. It may be worth it to change all of them at once. After all, these cars ARE damn old at this point. I did not bother with the short suction tube from the resevoir to the pump as it sees no pressure and I didn't want to mess with it, frankly. If it needs changing, it is much easier than what I just did (but access still sux), but I doubt it will
Key point #10: My SHO...for the first time in years...is not leaking ANY fluids at all. Woo-Hoo!
I will likely come back and edit this when I am less sleep deprived, but here it is for now.
