Planning to test drive a '99 tomorrow...

[jmpSHO2nd]

Here is one in my area that I would be more than glad to check out for you. I think it's alot nicer than both the SHOs you looked at and priced fairly for being at a dealer.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/ctd/1942796866.html

 

[Liquid_force]

I appreciate the feedback you guys are giving me.
Boston's clearly out of the question. If I'm making a roadie out of it I have STL, Denver, Dallas and Omaha that would all be within reason. Besides, they don't even list the mileage - I'm pretty sure I know what that means.
$3.5K isn't an option. At that price I'll just keep driving the 'tour. The local SHO at 4K was just for reference. It's not a consideration for purchase.
2K? Yes. $3K+ just isn't an option.

You guys just don't like the feeling you get from this local SHO do you?

More reference in the region --
3800 no welds, 133k: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1928190846.html out of my price range.
3500 welded 148k 3500: http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1937679171.html this one does look nice, but still out of my price range.
Junk w/152k $500 not welded: http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1913400486.html definitely in my price range, but below my standards

2k, welded, 196k: http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/1943393561.html actually not bad. This would be worth considering for me, but 196k is a turn off, espeically vs 90k for about the same price.

$600, probably blown engine: http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/1930799891.html
$1200 for a 173k cam bomb: http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/1919347440.html
$1700 wrecked: http://lincoln.craigslist.org/cto/1935099021.html
nice 97 w/rebuilt engine/trans http://lincoln.craigslist.org/cto/1868276476.html if it's welded might be the nicest one i've seen. Could be doable at 2500. Probably sold, listed in July.

There are some STL options too.

 

[sperold]

It sounds like you know your way around the trades area, so you would be the perfect guy to save this car.
Good luck, and I believe you won't be sorry with this one.
Just try to get the price down as most people do not have your abilities or contacts.... so that car is going to sit at that price.

 

[sandrew]

FWIW, the extra money quoted for the cam weld is for cleaning the upper/lower intake, new plugs, insulating the rear wire harness, checking valve lash & assorted 100k service items if needed, etc.

The actual welding is a tiny fraction of the time involved.

Removing the intake & surge tank to get to the rear head is a right PITA the first time or two.

If you're dead set on getting it, while it's on a lift at the mechanic or body shop check the brake lines on the driver's side, especially under the door - they're prone to rust through there. Also check the rocker panels under the ground effects. If the car has been in the rust belt its entire life they may not even be there. Fixing those correctly could easily double the cost of the car.

 

[Liquid_force]

Thanks Andrew - that's good info.

I'm good with the cleaning and plugs -- already priced plugs. Looks like the coil rotation is a good idea too. I've already looked at the VC removal process. Doesn't look like fun, but my wife's mitsubishi is similar, I've done that 3 times.
Haven't read much on the wire harness, and I'm clueless on the valve lash adjustment.

 

[sperold]

To answer your post you put in "1996 Ford Taurus SHO":
Do the code reader analysis to find out why the check engine light is on. Borrow a code reader if you can. If necessary, buy a OBD2 code reader (around $100.00) if you can't borrow one.... it will be money well spent. And keep the results to yourself, unless they are catastrophic.
If everything stays frosty in the engine compartment, then the AC problem could be the blend door or another control problem, both of which are a challenge to remedy.
Good luck.

 

[Liquid_force]

thanks again sperold.
That was supposed to be a new topic.
I have no idea how my post ended up in that thread. I don't even recall clicking on that topic. It was late -- maybe I did.