One Cure For Several Codes?

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

I was driving on the highway this afternoon and the tack dropped about 500rpm, and the check engine light came on. 10 seconds later the light went off and the engine returned to normal operation.

I ran the codes and got:

KOEO

114 (O,R) IAT sensor out of range - IAT

KOER

136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control

157 (R,M) Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded - MAF

172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control

217 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 3 - Ignition Systems

411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC

Now, I know a majority of these codes are a result of the 157 MAF code but will this fix the 217 coil 3 code also? I just don't want to purchase a new DIS if I don't need one.

Also, how do the 411 and 114 codes come into play here?

Any explanation and help is always greatly appreciated.

 

[Ishodu]

Did you do the cylinder balance test? This would confirm that you may have a bad coil or something. The MAF could be causing other issues, you should look after that first.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

Sorry, I forgot to include that the cylinder balance test showed all was normal.

 

[Phoenix]

I just had 217 on my POS daily driver , running on 4 cylinders part time. And it was the DIS that was faulty.

For the MAF/o2 codes , i'd clean the MAF first.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Codes 215 | 216 | 217 are DIS fault codes - so my first inclination is that your DIS is starting to go bad. This would explain the partial loss of rpm for the brief period of time, as well as why it did not show-up in the cylinder balance test. If it is the DIS, it will usually manifest itself by becoming more frequent before failing. If you start getting random 215 | 216 | 217 codes (ie. no consistent pattern), it would indicate a possible bad DIS-ground.

The 114 code is tied to the OAT being less than 50°F, and the two HEGO codes (as well as others) to the DIS coil failure.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

Will that 114 code be a reaccurring thing during the winter?

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Here's a little reading for ya':

Click me ! ! ! :woohoo:
​

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

I missed that during my search. Thank you so much!

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

Well, I cleaned the MAF last night before I left from work. I sprayed it pretty well and on the way home I had the same problem. I haven't run my codes yet as I left work last night at 2am and was back at 6:30. I'll replace the DIS today and hope that cures my headache. Just out of curiosity, what happens if I replace the DIS and don't use the heat transfer compound on the module and would my local auto parts store carry it (the heat transfer compound)?

 

[Ishodu]

Go to a electronics store, any place that sells computer stuff will have it. Used on CPU's as well.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

In my quest to find heat transfer compound I have hit a roadblock.

Will either of these items work??

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Antec-Silver-Thermal-Compound-77063/sem/rpsm/oid/80202/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Zalman-CPU-Thermal-Compound-ZM-STG1/sem/rpsm/oid/179543/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

 

[Storm-Chaser]

The Ford Service Manual calls for dielectric grease - available at any auto parts store. And you should be so-in-luck, as NAPA currently has the Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease on sale through the end of December.

From p. 45 of their 4th quarter "REAL DEALS" flyer:

• 765-1824 | 0.33 oz. | $4.99 > $3.49
  
  
• 765-1827 | 3.0 oz. | $2.89 > $1.99

Go for the big-tube (and note the price mistake - they have the item descriptions backwards.

NAPA also has PB Blaster on sale for $2.99, and Syntec oil (all weights) for $4.99 in their Christmas flyer - ALL good deals ! ! ! !


Because an arguement usually surfaces over which is "better" to use, dielectric grease is what the Service Manual calls for, is much more readily available, and it's less expensive.

It can also be used in other locations throughout the electrical system, such as harness connectors - which you cannot do with some thermal pastes, as they are usually aluminum-based (ie. conductive).

Everytime I separate a connector, I clean/replace terminal ends and coat them with dielectric grease before reconnecting the harness.

 

[SHOMON]

The 89 engine repair manual posted elsewhere on the forum states to use heat transfer com pound. I got mine at an electronics super store. It is made by MG chemicals in canada. www.mgchemicals.com

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Did you remove the MAF sensor from the housing? Removing the two small stainless steel screws from the top of the plastic sensor housing will allow you to remove the sensor and clean it directly. If you didn't physically remove it, once you do you will see why. Advance Auto carries a MAF sensor cleaner by CRC Industries:

CRC Chemicals Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner (Net. Wt. 11 oz.)

​

I'm not sure whether they can test the DIS for a SHO, but AutoZone and a few others (Advance, I think) can test some of the electronic modules. And before you decide to buy a "new" one, I would try a used one off another SHO that's running good and then pick-up one here if it corrects the problem.

Page 113 of the SHO engine manual states:

"Installation of the Ignition Module

When installing the DIS ignition module on the surge
tank connector there should be an application of a heat
transfer compound between the module and connector
as shown (Fig. 162). Apply Ford Thermo-Grease
ESFM-99E123-A or equivalent at nine spots (total
amount applied should be about 0.5-0.75 grams)."
​

The 89 engine repair manual posted elsewhere on the forum states to use heat transfer com pound. I got mine at an electronics super store. It is made by MG chemicals in canada. www.mgchemicals.com

 

[SHOMON]

Exactly. It says heat transfer compound.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Heat sink compound is the correct product, not di-electric grease.

Either of those products at Circuit City would be fine, although both of those are kind of overpriced. If you have a CompUSA nearby they will have it for like $3.99 for a small tube, or if you have a "real" electronics store (i.e. NOT Radio Shack -- although they used to have it) they will usually have it cheap too. Any place that sells CPU's should also have it. But, if you don't feel like chasing around the world and don't mind spending the extra money you could just go to Ckt City.

Once you get the DIS replaced, clear the keep-alive memory, and let us know what if any codes return.

 

[SHOMON]

The stuff I bought from U do it electronics was like $10 ? 2oz. jar. Expensive yes but it was the best non-silicone stuff. meets mil specs and sh**.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

The stuff I bought from U do it electronics was like $10 ? 2oz. jar. Expensive yes but it was the best non-silicone stuff. meets mil specs and sh**.

Yeah, we're very fortunate to have a place like YDI around here.

When my office was in Newton, I was there at least twice a week.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

First, it's referred to as "heat transfer compound".

Second, I have yet to E-V-E-R remove a DIS that had anything but dielectric grease between the DIS and crossover tube. The purpose was to eliminate the air-barrier between the crossover tube and DIS module, which acts as a thermal-barrier and inhibits heat transfer. Hence Ford's use of "heat transfer compound" terminology.

Third, that heat sink compound as referred to below, was not even available in 1989. And the aluminum-based products of today, are relatively new metal-based compounds that weren't even known 10 years ago. It wasn't until the later Pentium IIs that any type of heat sink compound was used to augment CPU heat sinks, and then was more a by-product of the overclocking crowd, as they sought additional methods for pushing processor speeds well above what Intel and AMD were certifying their CPUs at.


Guess I'll have to pick-up a tube of the Ford ESFM-99E123-A Thermo-Grease (or equivalent if either are still available) to see what is actually in it.

Heat sink compound is the correct product, not di-electric grease.

Either of those products at Circuit City would be fine, although both of those are kind of overpriced. If you have a CompUSA nearby they will have it for like $3.99 for a small tube, or if you have a "real" electronics store (i.e. NOT Radio Shack -- although they used to have it) they will usually have it cheap too. Any place that sells CPU's should also have it. But, if you don't feel like chasing around the world and don't mind spending the extra money you could just go to Ckt City.

Once you get the DIS replaced, clear the keep-alive memory, and let us know what if any codes return.

 

[SHOZ123]

«1993 Taurus/Sable Table of Contents»
«Group 03: ENGINE»
«Section 03-07B: Electronic Ignition (EI) System»
«REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»



Ignition Control Module (ICM)


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.

2. Disconnect both electrical connectors at ICM assembly by pressing down on locking tabs where it is stamped PUSH and remove connector.

3. Remove ICM retaining bolts and remove module.


Installation

1. Apply an even coat of approximately 0.80mm (1/32 inch), of Silicone Dielectric Compound WA-10, D7AZ-19A331-A (ESE-M1C171-A) or equivalent to mounting surface of ICM. Install ICM and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 2.5-3.5 N-m (22-31 lb-in).