Oil Burning

[mrclean]

I have a question. I have on and off blue smoke, sometimes when I start the car, it blows blue smoke, sometimes it doesn't. Also, at idle, there is no blue smoke, the exhaust smells normal, but if i rev it in neutral for a few seconds, it starts to blow blue smoke, but if i drive it around for awhile it stops. So, does this sound like the valve seals. And also, how long do you think it would take to complete the task?

 

[Cobraii976]

You must be driving my 90
Yeah that's classic valve stem seals. Take if for a spin and leave the clutch in a little to long on a upshift and see if it blows smoke. Task wise about a day. parts wise 150.00 for the gaskets might as well do them all up there. Super_High_Output on ebay has them for 139.99 plus 9.00 shipping. The hard part is the red box. You will need the stem seal remover and installer. and the valve spring compressor and it's parts. Air compressor to hold the valves up. and some time and paitence. As for the procedure the ShoPhoenix project website has a write up on it. Oh yeah might as well do an upper 60K while your already in there. So figure on tying it up for a weeked.

 

[mrclean]

Well...I have the valve cover gaskets and intake manifold gaskets, so that eliminates the need to buy those two. But what I'm wondering is how much it is for the shims, and the new valve seals themselves, and getting the tool kit in order to get the valve seal tools. The only thing on that list that I don't need is the air compressor....i'm not doing the job right away, because I just rebuilt the front suspension, because at 113k, the balljoints, barring plates, control arms, and struts were pretty much shot, and did the cv axle on the right side, fortunately, the left side looked almost new. While I was there I also did the brakes, because those were bad too. Thats what you get when you buy a car thats been beat on...

 

[Cobraii976]

The same guy with the full gasket set has the valve stem seals for a good price. The shims are a bit of a problem to come by. But Ford and the Yamaha dealer should have what you need. SHOBill on the forum has the valve adjustment tools for a good price. The RedBox is the hardest part of the whole thing..... Someone here might have one they would rent your lend you etc. And you can order a brand spanking new one from Rotunda for 595.00. Or watch Ebay. Or do what I did talk the service manager at your local Ford dealer out of his.

 

[jelloslug]

I see the Rotunda tool kit on ebay frequently. I bought mine (it was complete) for $177. Note: The tool kit does not include everything required to do the stem seals. The stem seal puller is just a tool that hooks to a slide hammer, so you will need one of those. Also you will need to make or buy the pivot shaft for the spring compressor, the kit does not include it.

 

[mrclean]

Is there anything I could do other than using a heavier weighted oil to make it at least pass inspection here in NY. Because I'm going to do the valve seals, but at the moment, I don't have the money to buy a Rotunda kit, shims, valve seals etc. It got really bad because I put 10w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic, so I'm gonna go to a heavier weight. The oil I had in there before it barely burned it at all, it just did it rarely after I had it sitting for awhile at idle or something, like a couple of minutes....but still, I just need this thing to pass inspection, and with it burning oil, I know it won't get even close, so is there anything that I can do that will help it pass?

 

[wood_e]

I was able to get a rotunda kit for SHOs off ebay for $100... I just needed to do some clever searching. I sold the same kit when I was done for $150

FWIW I would try some castrol 10w30 in there. I am unsure of how inspections go down there but you should wait until your car is fully up to temperature before going in for testing...

 

[HopefulSHO]

FWIW, When I bought my MTX, I did an oil change and put in Mobil 1 5w-30. It burned a quart of the stuff every 400 miles.
Then I switched to GTX 5w-30. Pretty instantly my consumption dropped to a quart every 700-800; and eventually levelled off at a quart every 1k. It burned the same amount of GTX no matter what viscocity spread I used (5/10w-30 and 10w-40).

It would puff in between hard shifts sometimes, and for about 30 seconds during real cold (read: freezing) starts.