NEWBIE SHO owner asking for help with ?'s

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tedhontz

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Hi, my name is Ted and I just bought a 1994 Taurus SHO. It "seems" to run very well, engine-wise. The body looks nice, the interior is terrible with greasy leather seats all ripped up, but I only paid $300 for the car! Being new to this car, I would like to get some stuff fixed up on it and therefore need some help with questions.

1. Being its a 1994, how do I read codes on it?

2. I've been reading many posts and don't know what these things mean.

D4U1
ASFB
LPM
VSS
VAK

Can anyone tell me what these abbreviations mean?

What tranny does my car have? an AXOD or an ATX? its a 94 SHO

OK, here are my problems.

Vehicle starts good, but when I put it into gear I can hear a vacuum type air sound. If I hit the gas too soon, it will kinda jump a little. If I accelerate from a dead stop and put the pedal to the floor it will only go up to 3500-4000 rpm and then it shifts from 1st to 2nd, then before 3500rpm it goes into 3rd and so on. It is refusing to let me "get on it". When im driving along at low rpms doing like 30-35mph and then hit the pedal to the floor for instant downshift and pickup, it will not downshift, it will only accelerate in current gear and then shift to next gear. But it does downshift through gears when I approach a complete stop at a red light.

As i mentioned the inside of the car was trashed, here is maybe a link to the tranny problem. WHen I press the button on the shifter handle to take it out of P and into R, the whole handle is loose and will turn from side to side. I also notice when I hit the OD/OFF button, it does not turn on any OD OFF light. I tried to tighten the shifter handle **** by turning it clockwise. No luck. I gently pulled up and the whole assembly came off. I can see just the metal rod with a 1" plastic rod sticking out of it. I can push down on the plastic rod and shift in and out of gear without even having the shifter handle on it. I looked inside the hollow stem of the shifter handle for some kind of wire that would go to that od/off button but I don't see anything.

I began to think that this is the problem with the tranny shifting too soon and the lack of aggression on acceleration, but then I'll add this in the mix. With the car in park, I start it and it idles perfect. But shouldn't I be able to rev it to like 6000 rpm's in park before a "limiter" kicks in to prevent redlining? I can rev the engine in park to about 4000rpm but then it shakes and forces the engine RPM's down to 3500rpm and then with my foot still on the gas it goes back and forth from 3500-4000rpm. All this when its in park and not even moving.

It does have the famous long delay from 1st to 2nd gear shifting, but it does go through the rest of the gears ok, though I have felt it slip on occassion. My speedometer isn't working which may or may not play into this problem? I've test drove other SHO cars in the past and I must say this engine sounds the best while idling. BUT it doesn't have that aggressive sound like the thottle pedal really isn't getting nailed down like I think it is. I really don't want to beat on this car, but occassionally I would like to be able to know that I can do it.

I also know that its been wrecked in the front previously and when Im accelerating from a dead start and it goes from 1st into 2nd, the car wants to ******** the road. It kinda feels uncontrollable in the front with there is no stabilizer links or sway bar. So, me being new to this car. Is there a sway bar or stabilizer links on this car? What else could the swaying problem be? Power steering seems to be working good if that helps anyone.

I'd really appreciate any help I can get from everybody that can help. I've owned 10 mustang 5.0 cars in my life, and this car is so different! I bought a haynes manual that covers the taurus and sable, but it doesn't cover a thing about the SHO making the book worthless. Anybody know of a book for the SHO. I don't even have the layout for the fuse boxes. I'd even be willing to pay for some help from people and I'm also looking for a lot of parts. New interior parts mostly, new headlights, and a new windshield. Mine has a crack in it. Like I said, Im desperate for help and will kindly repay you for any help or guidance that I can get! Thanks Again!
 
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Sh03d

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tedhontz said:
Hi, my name is Ted and I just bought a 1994 Taurus SHO. It "seems" to run very well, engine-wise. The body looks nice, the interior is terrible with greasy leather seats all ripped up, but I only paid $300 for the car! Being new to this car, I would like to get some stuff fixed up on it and therefore need some help with questions.

1. Being its a 1994, how do I read codes on it?

2. I've been reading many posts and don't know what these things mean.

D4U1
ASFB
LPM
VSS
VAK

Can anyone tell me what these abbreviations mean?

What tranny does my car have? an AXOD or an ATX? its a 94 SHO

OK, here are my problems.

Vehicle starts good, but when I put it into gear I can hear a vacuum type air sound. If I hit the gas too soon, it will kinda jump a little. If I accelerate from a dead stop and put the pedal to the floor it will only go up to 3500-4000 rpm and then it shifts from 1st to 2nd, then before 3500rpm it goes into 3rd and so on. It is refusing to let me "get on it". When im driving along at low rpms doing like 30-35mph and then hit the pedal to the floor for instant downshift and pickup, it will not downshift, it will only accelerate in current gear and then shift to next gear. But it does downshift through gears when I approach a complete stop at a red light.

As i mentioned the inside of the car was trashed, here is maybe a link to the tranny problem. WHen I press the button on the shifter handle to take it out of P and into R, the whole handle is loose and will turn from side to side. I also notice when I hit the OD/OFF button, it does not turn on any OD OFF light. I tried to tighten the shifter handle **** by turning it clockwise. No luck. I gently pulled up and the whole assembly came off. I can see just the metal rod with a 1" plastic rod sticking out of it. I can push down on the plastic rod and shift in and out of gear without even having the shifter handle on it. I looked inside the hollow stem of the shifter handle for some kind of wire that would go to that od/off button but I don't see anything.

I began to think that this is the problem with the tranny shifting too soon and the lack of aggression on acceleration, but then I'll add this in the mix. With the car in park, I start it and it idles perfect. But shouldn't I be able to rev it to like 6000 rpm's in park before a "limiter" kicks in to prevent redlining? I can rev the engine in park to about 4000rpm but then it shakes and forces the engine RPM's down to 3500rpm and then with my foot still on the gas it goes back and forth from 3500-4000rpm. All this when its in park and not even moving.

It does have the famous long delay from 1st to 2nd gear shifting, but it does go through the rest of the gears ok, though I have felt it slip on occassion. My speedometer isn't working which may or may not play into this problem? I've test drove other SHO cars in the past and I must say this engine sounds the best while idling. BUT it doesn't have that aggressive sound like the thottle pedal really isn't getting nailed down like I think it is. I really don't want to beat on this car, but occassionally I would like to be able to know that I can do it.

I also know that its been wrecked in the front previously and when Im accelerating from a dead start and it goes from 1st into 2nd, the car wants to ******** the road. It kinda feels uncontrollable in the front with there is no stabilizer links or sway bar. So, me being new to this car. Is there a sway bar or stabilizer links on this car? What else could the swaying problem be? Power steering seems to be working good if that helps anyone.

I'd really appreciate any help I can get from everybody that can help. I've owned 10 mustang 5.0 cars in my life, and this car is so different! I bought a haynes manual that covers the taurus and sable, but it doesn't cover a thing about the SHO making the book worthless. Anybody know of a book for the SHO. I don't even have the layout for the fuse boxes. I'd even be willing to pay for some help from people and I'm also looking for a lot of parts. New interior parts mostly, new headlights, and a new windshield. Mine has a crack in it. Like I said, Im desperate for help and will kindly repay you for any help or guidance that I can get! Thanks Again!

1.http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm but its kinda confusing.

2.D4U1 is the 94-95 Computer.
Aluminum Subframe Bushings.
LPM is a chip that is used to tune your car.
Vehicle speed sensor.
VAK applies to 96-99 SHOs.

ATX just means Automatic transaxle. I think the SHO trans is AXOD-E.

I'll read the rest of your post tomorrow. It's just way to long for me tonight.:nut: But good job on being descriptive and clear. Always helps.
 

T.O_SHO

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1. How to read codes: http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm

2. D4U1, is the computer your car has. Your car has an ATX (Automatic Trans-Axle) and the manual, 5-speed cars have a X2J computer, and the trannies are MTX (Manual Trans-axles)

ASFB- Aluminum Subframe Bushings, an upgrade you can do to your subframe bushings, do a forum search for this to see exactly what they do.

LPM- Lifetime programmable module, essentially a "chip" to add to the car, that can account for different modifications that you do, for example NOS, or a larger MAF.

VSS- Variable Speed Sensor, I think...

Thats about all the help I can offer, if anybody wants to correct my info, please feel free to do so.

Welcome to the SHO world Ted :thumb:
 

tedhontz

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thanks for the definitions on the replies so far, but does anyone have any ideas about giving me ideas on helping my car problems.

Now that im learning more about it, i just need to fix it.

Thanks!!
 

sho_me92

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the reason you cant rev it past 4000 in park is cause it has a rev limmiter in park and from what it sounds like yours is normal there
 

tedhontz

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ok, i can understand a rev limiter at 4000rpm in park maybe, but what about when Im driving it? the thing has no power. also any other suggestions to my other questions anyone?
 

jaded93atx

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At wide open throttle your 1-2 shift from a stop should be around redline...7-7300 rpm.And yes ours are supposed to have sway bars and end links if yours doesnt then that sounds pretty dangerous to be driving, and yes I would think that would contribute pretty heavily to poor (to say the least) handling, especially when cornering and I would assume under torque steer conditions like a 1-2 shift, although I dont know how much torque steer you could be getting if it will only shifts around 3000 rpm.
How about a check engine light, does it light up when your driving, if not ensure that its working at all by looking for it to light up for a couple of seconds when you first start the car along with the oil light.
If have one find out what the codes are. You may have some tranny codes indicating internal damage or sensor failure, also you may have some engine trouble codes that will make trouble shooting easier.
As far as a book I think there is one out there but I have seen many posts saying some of the material is wrong. Ive owned my ATX for 5 years and have found everything I need to fix anything that goes wrong with it right here. If you see a term you dont understand or need more specific details about a problem use the search function with the term in question and youll become a sho genious in no time.
Hope this helps
 
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tedhontz

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well i found a code stating i needed a new vss so i had one installed at the shop today. it shifts better, but still wont rev over 4000 rpm from first to second even with the pedal to the floor. it also won't downshift WOT.

Any suggestions?
 

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