New SHO owner (non-PP apparently)

[boostedskyline]

Just picked it up Tuesday, it's a 2013, best bang for the buck I could find (lowest mileage and price compared to the other SHO's around, just not the PP)
Really, REALLY wanna get exhaust, intake, intercooler piping (to really hear the turbos) and a tune, but I also don't want to void the factory warranty's since I've been reading about people getting it voided for the stupidest things then others getting away with tunes and full exhausts (I guess it depends on the dealer)

So I guess I just wanna know where to start asking around or what, also haven't seen to many issues with the 2013's so I just want to know if the issues I read about 2010-2012 have been solved (transmission issues being the one I noticed the most)

 

[Dave]

Welcome and Congratulations! Have fun with her. As far as I know a few guys with 10-12's had some minor issues with trans. They have been solved or are close to being solved. I haven't had any issues with mine and I have about 40 1/4 runs, not to mention what I've done off the track.

 

[boostedskyline]

Had one question that I haven't figured out, is there any way to downshift into neutral when in manual shifting mode?

 

[Dave]

I don't think so.

 

[boostedskyline]

To clarify since my question was a bit off, can I put it into neutral while in the manual shifting mode AT a dead stop (to launch it at a higher rpm)?

 

[SHOdded]

You would be better off holding down the brakes and launching at a higher rpm than trying to shift from neutral into gear at that time. Easier on the trans, and better for your reaction time as well. If stock, 2000-2200 rpm is best, if tuned, 1800-2000 rpm.

 

[PokerMunkee]

Congrats, you got the best color

I'll be tuning mine in January. I just got mine as well, a few months ago, so want to make sure she has 6 months of trouble free driving before I up the boost.

Unless the engine or tranny grenades, doubt the dealer will check to see if you tuned. Just go back to stock and you'll be fine. There hasn't been any tune only catastrophes to my knowledge, so odds are you will be good!

Where in MI do you live? Livernois is in the Detroit area, definitely would go that route if they are close. They are the #1 EcoBoost tuner. Next is Unleashed Tuning. Those are the only two tuners worth looking at for the SHO, IMO.

The verdict is the stock airbox is the best for 1/4 times. CAI's sound and look cool, but 1/4 testing is proving they are a tad slower than stock. After a tune, down pipes are the next best thing to get the turbos spooling sooner. I plan to do down pipes after my warranty is up.

 

[Dave]

You would be better off holding down the brakes and launching at a higher rpm than trying to shift from neutral into gear at that time. Easier on the trans, and better for your reaction time as well. If stock, 2000-2200 rpm is best, if tuned, 1800-2000 rpm.

YES! Neutral Drop = Trashed Trans

 

[boostedskyline]

You would be better off holding down the brakes and launching at a higher rpm than trying to shift from neutral into gear at that time. Easier on the trans, and better for your reaction time as well. If stock, 2000-2200 rpm is best, if tuned, 1800-2000 rpm.

YES! Neutral Drop = Trashed Trans

I'm just not to up to date with these new autos or awd cars for that matter, but wouldn't holding down the brakes and revving up the engine (in D or S) still cause SOME kind of damage? It just doesn't seem healthy to hold the car back with the brakes while the transmission is trying to get the car rolling.... am I just misunderstanding something or is doing this less stressful on the transmission than a neutral dump?

 

[Dave]

You really only hold the brake for a few seconds. Like when staged at the track. That gets the turbos wound up. I think it's a lot easier on the trans.

 

[integrity6987]

Much less stressful! It's hydraulic pressure holding the car still (no issue / no extra wear) and have the trans trying to roll the stationary car increases internal trans pressure - not not more than a normal (high end of design spec) load.

Letting all the engine torque build pressure via the torque converter during a neutral drop is introducing nearly instantaneous loads on the mechanical parts they were NOT designed to handle. Do this at your peril. BTW - these cars have "black boxes" and I'd bet you'd have a lot of explaining to do trying to get a trashed transmission covered by warranty.