Need Rodbearing Opinions

[oh_SHO]

History:

My 95 MTX has just under 100K on it and I bought it with 97K. I bought the car with no mods or maintence really. I have NOT changed the oil yet as it was changed just prior to me buying the car (sticker). The previous owner told me he changed the oil every 3K and his wife drove the car.

Now here is what is going on...
I hear 'bearing clatter' on the initail start up of the day. I also got a the dreaded oil light flicker but that was when I was having problems with the IAC (only on long drives on hot days). I think that pretty much went away after I replaced the IAC (car has been chillin' under cover since November). Never heard any knocks except that initail start up.

Now, I had planned on doing the RBs next weekend but money and time are tight right now. I have had numerous people tell me that the noise was due to a bad check valve in the generic oil filter. I don't need the car done next weekend 'cause I won't have insurance until the second week in June so keep that in mind... Should I change the oil & filter, drive it, and possible risk damage/further damage to the crank? Or should I just go ahead and change them? I plan doing the 3.2 swap in the next few years (after I graduate and get a real job) so I don't need another 100K out of it, more like 20K. But I don't want to ruin it 'cause I'm lazy. I dunno guys. What do you all think? Sorry so long and thanks in advance.

 

[AutoSHO]

The only real way to know is to put on an oil pressure gauge. Mine clatter on startup, but my car runs great oil pressure. I'm replacing them anyways this summer because I want the whole motor to be fresh, but its really not necessary. Once the car is up to hot running temperature (read: the fan is cycling), drag the engine RPMs down with the clutch and see where the red oil light flickers or turns on. If it is above 600 rpms I would replace the rod bearings. If its below that, I'd still replace them, but I wouldn't make it top priority.

You will not hurt the engine by replacing the rod bearings so long as you use plenty of assembly ****. For the price its a really easy way to ensure your motor keeps on runnin'.

 

[TYSHO]

Chane the oil and filter and see how that turns out. Could just be the oil in there now...cheap oil....that's causing the clatter on start up. Throw some Motorcraft or Castrol oil in there with a Motorcraft oil filter.

Calls for the FL-400S filter and 5 quarts of oil.

Some here will say to get the FL-1A filter. With that you need 5.5 quarts of oil.

 

[sdpatt]

I have heard startup clatter on healthy engines with the wrong oil (Mobil 1 synthetic). The easy wasy to eliminate the oil and filter (never heard of that one before) as the cause or source of the noise is to replace them with quality oil and filter products. My engine has lived a very long and frisky life on Castrol GTX 10W-30 and Motorcraft FL-400S filters. Five and a half quarts of Castrol and a Motorcraft filter for $2.99 at Wal-Mart will not break the bank or your engine.

I doubt that a SHO engine that has benefitted from 3,000 mile oil change intervals will exhibit excessive rod bearing wear at 97,000 miles. There are exceptions, but try the oil and filter first.

 

[oh_SHO]

sdpatt says try the oil and filter first, so I will!!

But I was leaning towards just changing the oil & filter because of money. I planned on putting a temporary (temporary as in zip-tied to the dash) oil pressure guage on it next weekend anyway. I've already got some Castrol and an FL1A for it... If she still makes all kind of noise and I get the dreaded flicker I'll go a head and change them. Now, if only I could get the rest of the money I need for insurance... Thanks again. I'll revive this thread when I get some oil pressure readings for FYI purposes.

 

[Alex Perry]

I use *gasp* castrol gtx and get that clatter, too. i've tried 5w30 and 10w30. no real pattern to when it does it, just the odd cold start. also, i've used the standard 3600 filter, and am now using fl1a equivalent (wix). I'm doing my valves and rod bearings in the next week or so, so i'll see if that clears it up.

oh, and no problems, touch wood, with oil pressure.

 

[eat_me_hondaboy]

the oil i use in my sho is GTX 10w40 and 1 bottle of Lucas oil additive if you go on to shoshop.com they recomend using the 10w40 oil. for this vehicle i think it is the best oil. so try it next oil change. the lucas oil additive helps on dry starts too

 

[yamahaSHO]

I keep thinking about it, but I still don't see how rod bearings affect oil pressure, is there something I'm missing?

 

[TYSHO]

the oil i use in my sho is GTX 10w40 and 1 bottle of Lucas oil additive if you go on to shoshop.com they recomend using the 10w40 oil. for this vehicle i think it is the best oil. so try it next oil change. the lucas oil additive helps on dry starts too

NEVER will I use either of that crap!!!!! Changing camshafts ain't fun!

 

[AutoSHO]

There are passages through the crank that run pressurized oil to the rod bearings. If you develop a larger clearance, the oil loses pressure because it can flow out so much easier past the bearing.

 

[Alex Perry]

wow, 10w40 WITH lucas? that must be as thick as gear oil!

 

[shojuan]

the oil i use in my sho is GTX 10w40 and 1 bottle of Lucas oil additive if you go on to shoshop.com they recomend using the 10w40 oil. for this vehicle i think it is the best oil. so try it next oil change. the lucas oil additive helps on dry starts too

They're recommending 10W/40 REDLINE synthetic oil. Redline doesn't use viscosity modifiers so the major reason not to use a 10W/40 oil does not apply. Since you are using a 10W/40 dino oil I will try to explain: The bigger the point spread with a conventional oil (10W/40 = 30 point spread. 10W/30 = 20 point spread) the more viscosity modifiers are used. Viscosity modifiers aren't the most stable polymers and that means that a 10W/40 is going to be more prone to oil breakdown than a 10W/30. You're getting crappier lubrication, especially as the oil gets old. Plus more deposits most likely. Switch your GTX to the 10W/30 instead.

If you're going to be running one of the better synthetics that doesn't use viscosity improvers then it's really your judgement call whether to use the 10W/30 version or 10W/40 version. One of them is a little thicker. If that's what you want then fine.

People using conventional oil should avoid 10W/40 like the plague. If you want a conventional oil a little thicker than 10W/30 then try a "truck" oil like Mobil Delvac 15W/40 or Chevron Delo 400. Or even Castrol RX.

 

[oh_SHO]

Thread Resurection

Well I finaly got to put an oil pressure gauage on the SHO and changed the oil. With the old oil and filter I got around 55-60 psi when it was cold at idle. After it warmed up a bit (no driving) it had 15-17 psi. I changed the oil and put 10w-30 Havoline with the FL-1A filter. Initial cold readings were ~62 psi cold and with driving in 85-90 degree weather 38-42 psi at 60 MPH. The hot idle readings look like 11-14 psi. There is still a slite noise on start-up. What do you all think? Looks like good pressure to me. Think I could make 120K and change the bearings when I do the 120K check up?

 

[oh_SHO]

No opinions?

 

[revhardSHO]

No opinions?

I think you could make it to 120K. For reference, my brothers 89 has made it to 206K with very very dark internals and very late oil changes (all, of course, by previous owner). I have noticed a slight knock on start up every once in a while when its really cold (5*F), but other than that Ive never had a problem with the lower end. The motor still sees redline daily. However, in the next few weeks I will be changing the rod bearings on that 89, the 94, and the 93 SLO (been through a few HG failures and knocks on startup).

AutoSHO, are you still running on original rod bearings?