My AX4S-** rebuild

[Call_Me_crazy]

trans rebuild


Thanks for looking.

 

[ohfosho]

you're crazy!



looking good

 

[Call_Me_crazy]

Sorry guys no added pics, the assembly process is way greasy, LOL, and I'm not gonna screw up my camera. The only problem I'm having right now is the rear **** tube won't seat into its hole.

This is rudedog.

 

[n8rsk8r]

that is a common "break" from what I have read. The two things I have heard of that is a fix to this problem...
1.Sonnax seal, which is essentially drilling out the hole and inserting in a "ring" seal that will ensure a tight seal

2. using a new tube.

There was a special TSB about this... I will have to look it up, but it was about the tube coming out and causing the trans to not operate.

How you coming along with this?

 

[rudedog]

Well, I think I followed the instructions too well. I reinstalled the seal into the rear planetary support, but at the same time the ATSG manual called for a seal to be pressed into the case where the rear **** tube goes. I think, that seal needs to come out, as there was no seal there originally.

Other than that everything is going along well, I think.

 

[sho'd]

that transmission dosn't have the updated cross over tube and rear planetary support. first time i've seen a older one like that.

 

[rudedog]

that transmission doesn't have the updated cross over tube and rear planetary support. first time I've seen a older one like that.

Yes it does have the updated tubes, it's a 93.

This is the seal that I think needs to come back out, as it wasn't there to begin with. These pics are straight from the ATSG book.

This is the seal that WAS there originally and is now "below" the other seal. I was kinda thinking "cool, it'll be double sealed", but somehow, I don't think so now, LOL.

Let me know what you guys think, please. Rudy.

 

[n8rsk8r]

I hadn't seen that other seal, the one in the pic directly above this post before. I dunno man?!?!

 

[rudedog]

The one in the support, or the one in the case???

 

[rudedog]

Its 11:45, I just spent 20 minutes "gingerly" pulling the stupid little seal out of the tranny case. I figured it wasn't there before, it probably shouldn't be there now. Besides, the FORD cd mentions NOTHING of it. Therefore, the ATSG book is probably wrong, or that seal is not required for the up-dated tube. After I got it out, the rear **** tube set right down into the rear support just fine (I measured). So, problem fixed and we'll move forward tomorrow, I've got to get a filter.



OHHH!!! I know what I've forgotten. Did any of you read this e-mail and follow the instructions for NOT using the spacer in the servo?? Is he talking about the accumulator piston inside the trans, or the servo piston on the outside of the case?" (hi-lighted)

Quote:
Subject: [Shotimes] ATX Rebuild was Re: MY New SHO!!
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 20:31:10 -0400
From: "Randy Crist" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
CC: <[email protected]>, <[email protected]>, <[email protected]>

The ATX rebuild was pretty straight forward, As far as what I did was to replace all the frictions and steels (use the Borg Warner brand as they are made of a stronger material) and make sure that if you buy a kit that they double check that it is for a SHO and has enough frictions and steels in the kit since the SHO uses 5ea. in the direct and fwd. clutches instead of 4 ea. like the SLO.

I replaced the accumulator pistons as needed and ALWAYS replace the forward aluminum piston with the steel piston from Ford since they will be or will crack. The pistons in the direct and intermediate clutch packs are 2 piece and the seals are bonded to them so I just inspected them and reused them since they were ok and the seals fit tight.

The forward sprag ALWAYS needs replaced and you can upgrade this by installing the OVERDRIVE sprag from the E4OD. They are the same exact size but the E4OD O/D sprag has 34 elements in it instead of the 26 in the AXODE, you do need to use the side washers from the AXODE since they are the correct thickness. I replaced any bushings that were worn out, the worst one was the one in the low/intermediate drum. The chain is special to the SHO and it has 42 links, 3/4 wide with rectangular pins, 3 bronze id links.

Check your torque converter for a groove on the shaft where the seal rubs. Mine was really bad so I replaced the converter with the later model (94up)(stronger) which requires the turbine shaft to be changed as well since the new one has 25 teeth instead of the 23 that is on the 1993's.

As far as the valve body, planetary gears, turbine shaft and support I did the **** mods that came in the Trans-Go kit instructions. They recommend using the yellow spring in one of the pistons in the valve body for normal shifting and the white for firm so I used the white. It will take awhile for my shifts to get firm since I put in all new frictions and steels.
The tech. rep from Trans-Go said to get the best shifts to reuse the old frictions if they are not worn out and to sand the steels to break the glaze.

As far as the accumulator springs their instructions say to reuse the SHO springs and not install the spacer so I reused all my springs, which brings up something..NOT all the accumulator springs are what the Ford factory manual or the Helms says they should be. They are color coded and both the SHO ATX's I have torn down had diffrent springs in them and the color code was diffrent than what they were suppose to be so make sure you tie them together and mark which goes where....

If you install a new low band DO NOT use the steel spring/ring spacer that comes in the Trans-Go kit that goes behind the 1-2 servo piston. It is to be used in a trans that has the old band in it to take up some slack and if you use it with a new band your band clearance will be WAY too tight.

The shift solenoids and line pressure solenoid have been upgraded so I installed all new ones from Ford. Also replace the vehicle speed sensor
because it is almost impossible to do it in the car. I have a helms and it is really good for the rebuild info but I lucked out and found a set of Ford factory repair manuals on the AXOD-E on E-Bay for $25!! If you can get a set of these it is the way to go, it is step by step with lots of good pics and info.

Trans-Go recommends either a synthetic fluid or to use Mobil 1 engine oil. I used Valvoline synthetic tranny fluid.

As far as special tools, I bought the piston seal protectors. The bench mount fixture to hold the trans. and the clutch pack spring compressor, end-play tool and other misc. tools I made myself on the lathe or just welded something up.

Parts..Forward piston(SHO only) F4DZ-7A262-B
Shift solenoids F1DZ7G484A..3ea.
Line press. solenoid F3DZ7G136A
Speed sensor F2AZ6C624A
Torque converter lock up solenoid F8DZ7G383BB
Trans-Go kit from Trans. exchange Co.in Portland Ore. 1-800-776-1191
All other bushings,rebuild kit, sprag- I got at a local parts store in Ellenwood GA. called Transmission Parts Unlimited.404-366-1455
Seal protectors ATEC Trans-Tool San Antonio, TX 210-225-6745

The total cost including the converter was about $700 maybe a little less, the converter was $110 of the cost...or you can get a new tranny from Ford for $1900, and tear it apart and do the **** mods and install the Trans-Go kit.-- Not Me.

I hope I did not leave anything out, if you have any more questions or if I can help in any way just let me know.

Randy
93 ATX- Red
93 ATX-Green

 

[sho'd]

I hadn't seen that other seal, the one in the pic directly above this post before. I dunno man?!?!

yes the seal has to be put in, has anyone checked my thread on this? i did a semi tutorial, a few more pics of the inside, the picture i was looking at didn't have the tube in place yet duh.

if you don't put that seal in you will have problems. hope you got it in, good luck brother. trans are fun, just finished a A4LD out of a explorer last week, way easier than the front wheel transmissions by far, no i see why the rebuilders get paid the big bucks.

i just re-read your thread, only the one that is pictured in the last pic is the seal to use, the before that is for the older style rear planetary support, it should not be there. that might cause you some problems.

 

[rudedog]

Yeah, I got it out late last night, the tube will not even fit into it. I'm still wondering about the 1-2 piston and the steel ring"spacer" that goes in for the shift kit, and the accumulator piston with the thin ring and the slash cut teflon seal. I'm calling Trans-Go for some info on that at 10:00 my time.

 

[n8rsk8r]

WOW blast from the past on that email! I am going to recopy that, I haven't seen that in a couple years. So what did transgo tell you?

 

[rudedog]

I called about the 1-2 spacer ring that goes in the servo cover and about the seal and ring that goes in the accumulator bore. Larry, said that the servo may or may not have enough clearance to use that large spacer. I guess I'll install the servo, and see if there is enough clearance for the drum to spin inside the band with it installed, if not, then it'll have to come out. As for the small thin ring and teflon seal, it replaces the square cut seal that goes around the actual accumulator piston. You remove the piston, remove the seal, install the steel ring then the teflon seal, then re-install the piston into its bore.

 

[sho'd]

should have went with superior kit, i guess it's all up to preference though. good to hear you got that seal out. good luck with the rest!! sounds like your learning lots.

 

[rudedog]

Thanks. What are some of the main differences between the two? Maybe we can kinda outline what they are for future builders, that way they have a better understanding of what to expect.

 

[Call_Me_crazy]

Ooooops I'm on the bro's computer, LOL. This is the little bugger that held me up. Stupid little seal.

I've got the chain cover back on. I installed the big ring into the 1-2 servo and installed the servo and cover. The internals seem to spin just fine, I guess we'll see once I get it running.

 

[n8rsk8r]

Thanks. What are some of the main differences between the two? Maybe we can kinda outline what they are for future builders, that way they have a better understanding of what to expect.

absolutely!! Thanks for the updates man!

 

[rudedog]

I spent a little time on it tonight. I pulled the chain cover off earlier. After I spoke with the trans-go rep, I knew how the accumulator seal was supposed to go. That fixed, I installed the 1-2 servo and spring, bolted it in place and proceeded to spin the input shaft(turbine shaft??) all seemed to be ok, as the tech rep said it should spin. Unfortunately he didn't say how easily. Considering everything inside is new, I figured it should be slightly harder to turn than before, it was. Installed the valve body, all new solenoids, and oil pump shaft. Installed the speedo gear assembly, the other servo, and installed the side pan. Installed the dip stick tube and the axle seals. According to the Ford CD it looks like I've got everything done, I'm going to go over it all again tomorrow before I button it all up for good.
There were a few seals left over as the kit I bought was apparently for both an early and late style AXOD-E. I also noticed that I have a couple of bonded pistons in my clutch assemblies, so there are a couple of lip seals left over.

All in all I'm happy with the way things have gone so far, we'll see if it keeps up like that.:woohoo:

 

[n8rsk8r]

congrats man. On a scale of 1 to 10 what was it for you? Best of luck on it firing right up and working