LCA, Tension strut, and ball joint.

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Ive got the subframe dropped for a clutch replacement. :wave:

The ONLY thing that hasnt been replaced in this car's suspension is the control arms/ball joints and the tension strut bushings. I dont have any plans of dropping this subframe again anytime soon, so I figure now is the time.

Is there any obvious signs of a ball joint that should be replaced? The ones on there now have good boots, and the joints feel very tight. The rubber bushings in the LCA are OKAY, not great. Minor dry-cracks.

Im going to replace the tension strut rod bushings with the "updated" poly versions, any tips? The subframe is out of the car on saw-horses, and those nuts are TIGHT!

 

[Shoaz]

If the boots are good the balljoints are probably fine. Usually ball joint failure is from the grease getting out and the dirt getting in there when the boots fail.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

cool beans.

Thanks.

 

[Markus]

I replaced my tie rods at 105,000 miles. The boots looked perfect but the new ones made a huge difference. Shortly after that I replaced the LCAs and the tension strut bushings. The rubber on all pieces looked okay but there was a night and day difference with the new parts.

My advice is to replaced the components now. They're not expensive and they are a pain in the **** to change. I would also look into replacing the strut mounts and bearings at the same time. You should be able to rent/borrow a spring compressor and, again, the parts are not too expensive. If you do it all now you'll likely not have to touch the front suspension again for many years.

I know what you mean about tight nuts. I had to heat the strut rod bushing nuts with a propane torch in order to get them off.

 

[SHOlocke]

you can get a new bushing for the part of the LCA where it meets the SF. I think they are $5 a side or something. Have your local napa press them in. Also I would highly recomend getting the TPR bushings for the part that of the tension rod goes thru the LCA.

They are $5-10 per side IIRC

 

[sdpatt]

This is also a very opportune time to replace the sway bar frame mount bushings. Go with the Moog TPR if you are needing a good bang for the buck handling upgrade.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

I already have TPR sway bar bushings.

But with the time and money crunch, Ive opted to just replace the tension strut bushings. At the subframe, and at the control arm.

Interesting how spendy the contral arm/ball joint unit is

 

[Yamaha V6]

Yep, and Ford just discontinued one side (only).

 

[SHOtimer]

Yep, and Ford just discontinued one side (only).

A balljoint/LCA unit?

Doug

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Yep, and Ford just discontinued one side (only).

Bah, I use MOOG hardware anyhow

 

[Yamaha V6]

I despise the Moog LCA's, the boots don't seal for jack, and you end up with more crud in there than grease, and what grease is in there ends up all over everything. Sealed for me. Well, at least it used to be anyway.

They were able to get one side no problem, the other one ended up being a moog in a motorcraft box (greaseable, 1 digit additional in the PN).

 

[SHOtimer]

Well, i'm glad I replaced my LCA's with Motorcraft last year....all sealed. I don't really like the MOOG tie rods either for the same reason, the grease gets everywhere and the boot doesn't really seal it just sits there.

Doug

 

[htheduck]

Im going to replace the tension strut rod bushings with the "updated" poly versions, any tips? The subframe is out of the car on saw-horses, and those nuts are TIGHT!

Help-I'm in need of a how to for these rods...I got three of the four bolts off-however I couldn't figure out how to remove the rod-for replacing the inner bushing. Also, can anyone post a part number for the rear rod bushing? I used Moog K8516 for the fronts, but stopped when I couldn't figure out how to remove the rod....much thanks.
-H

 

[adidas_kn]

You have to unbolt the control arm and wiggle it loose to get the tension rod out. I know as I just did all of mine.

Later
"J"

 

[htheduck]

Thanks. I finally got it done-(last week)! The endlinks had to be removed-but one of four of those bolts stripped on me-damn! The front washer plate finally came out with some motivation from a hammer. What I didn't realize at first is that those pieces cannot be removed through the opening of the frame--the strut rod has to move backwards in order to remove the rod. What a PITA!!-naturally the strut rods were rusted/seized to the control arm bushings so removal of the LCA's were a pain.

I reinstalled everything: new LCAs and MOOG front rod bushings...I'm still not satisfied since the rusty rear rod sections are rusted thin-(it continues to vibrate when I brake). I just ordered new rods from Ford yesterday-and will try the whole process-AGAIN!

 

[htheduck]

Ok-I just got some dealer rods: new since I reused the original ones-bad idea. New items: Moog front rod bushings/Moog LCA's

I would welcome any suggestions for my next step:

1. replace the REAR rod bushings (w/Moog) that are pressed into the LCA? (by heating up the rubber ones and pressing them out)?-any better ideas welcome.

--or--

2. install new rods with only the front Moogs and keep rubber bushings in the rear?

Thanks to all that posted!
-H

 

[Slo-Sho]

I agree with the moog lca's being crap. I've gone through 2 pair's (1/$63) in less than 18 mos. As stated above I found out that the drivers side lca is obsolete from Ford. They are made by TRW and come with the sealed boot and are non-greasable. I'm currently looking for an aftermarket dr. side lca with a sealed boot....

 

[htheduck]

My right side LCA bushing just split and I can hear the strut rod grinding-mostly on left hand turns. OMG, WTF is it with these LCAs?