What sizes above 26mm are available for a gen 1 rear sway bar? I did a second drivers ed at lime rock, and my instructor said I could get more out of the car if it rotated more. Since I can't do anything with my springs (not going to coil overs yet) I want to do a sway bar. I could also go down to a 20.6 in the front, but I'd rather the front roll less than more, plus the back is easier to do.
Largest Rear Swaybar Avail?
- Thread starter NJSHO
- Start date
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Ishodu
SHO Member
The ShoShop had a 29mm bar out there once upon a time. They are hard to find though.
shomesomesho
G-force addict
By more rotation, do you mean oversteer?
SHO92
New Member
I think there was a 28mm rear bar that was rumored to have come on some police package cars. The 26mm is the largest that you'll be able to easily find. IRT made a 28mm bar for a while too, but you'd have to find someone willing to sell theirs.
GET TIRES/WHEELS FIRST!!! FWIW, Tirerack has a number of wheels they haven't sold before listed for the SHO, and they are all under $100 each. They don't have the weight listed though, you'll have to call and ask for the shipping weight.
GET TIRES/WHEELS FIRST!!! FWIW, Tirerack has a number of wheels they haven't sold before listed for the SHO, and they are all under $100 each. They don't have the weight listed though, you'll have to call and ask for the shipping weight.
Shoaz
Studly dood
If you go bigger than the 26mm bar in the back you might want to look at some beefier end links as well. I'm not sure how the stock end links would hold up with a bigger RARB.
But I think you might want to try some race rubber (or just stickier tires in general) on wider rims and play with tire pressures before you go to custom rear bars. Or try the 20.6 bar in the front and see what you think.
Running street tires on slicers is going to be the major handling limitation for you until you can make the leap past that. Keep an eye out for some good, light 16x7 or wider rims with an open spoke pattern (for radiative brake cooling) and put your track rubber on those. Engineer in some rotation by playing with the tire pressures. If you do all that and still want a bigger rear bar, go for it, but you may find you don't need it.
But I think you might want to try some race rubber (or just stickier tires in general) on wider rims and play with tire pressures before you go to custom rear bars. Or try the 20.6 bar in the front and see what you think.
Running street tires on slicers is going to be the major handling limitation for you until you can make the leap past that. Keep an eye out for some good, light 16x7 or wider rims with an open spoke pattern (for radiative brake cooling) and put your track rubber on those. Engineer in some rotation by playing with the tire pressures. If you do all that and still want a bigger rear bar, go for it, but you may find you don't need it.
I have a 28mm IPT bar on my 92. Paired with the 26 front bar and coilovers it has nearly zero body roll and a bit of understeer. When I have time I want to change to 22/26 with the coilovers and see how that performs.
I also have a 29mm SS bar that is new (never installed). It was one of the last ones they had & I haven't decided what to do with it yet. I might be persuaded to part with it.
You could drop the front to 20.6 or 22; that would definitely move the car towards neutral/oversteer.
If you get a bigger rear bar, I would recommend a 24mm gen1 front bar with a 28mm rear, and a 25mm Midwestsho or 26mm IPT front bar with the 29mm SS rear. If you are running coilovers you will not want as large a front bar.
I think that the really large swaybars would perform well with stock (or aftermarket) springs, or on a drag race sho. With coilovers (high spring rates) the large swaybars are not necesary and make the car very stiff.
I also have a 29mm SS bar that is new (never installed). It was one of the last ones they had & I haven't decided what to do with it yet. I might be persuaded to part with it.
You could drop the front to 20.6 or 22; that would definitely move the car towards neutral/oversteer.
If you get a bigger rear bar, I would recommend a 24mm gen1 front bar with a 28mm rear, and a 25mm Midwestsho or 26mm IPT front bar with the 29mm SS rear. If you are running coilovers you will not want as large a front bar.
I think that the really large swaybars would perform well with stock (or aftermarket) springs, or on a drag race sho. With coilovers (high spring rates) the large swaybars are not necesary and make the car very stiff.
Yamaha V6
SHO Enthusiast
Dan, your PM box is full, tried to send you a message RE: 29mm bar.
yozsi
New Member
you can double up on the rear sway bars. im not kidding about running two swaybars.
DHMag
Free At Last
theres a custom sway bar shop in Fort Worth Texas that will make any size bar you want, you provide the original. last i checked, price seemed decent at ~$150.
TankII
SHO Member
On my '91 at Lime Rock a year ago, I had no problem keeping the car balanced. Or outhandling most of the other cars on the track.
I have:
Konis/Eibachs - 1/2 turn front, 3/4 turn rear.
Polyethelene strut-rod bushings. (McQuay-Norris/Perfect circle)
Police Subframe bushings.
Quaife (This actually gives me some understeer - otherwise the car would have oversteered at Lime Rock)
21mm front bar, 26mm rear bar.
Front bar has stock bushings and plastic links.
Rear bar has PST Graphite impregnated polyurethane body bushings. The end links (Most important!) are a Hellwig 9.5" center-to-center kit. Call them for the part numbers, and they will send you to a dealer to order them. I think FPS can get them as well. About $12.00 for the kit.
Hellwig uses a larger 3/8" rod with 1/4" larger diameter bushings. The bushings are FLAT on both sides, which means the rear sway bar has ZERO deflection - it reacts immediately. The Factory, PST, Addco, etc. bushings all are rounded on the bottom. This allows the sway bar to roll a bit before the pushing compresses and starts reacting. With the Hellwig kit, there is no movement and the bar reacts immediately. This also prevents snap oversteer since the car doesn't get the chance to settle then hit the bar.
See this link for pictures. Sorry some are not as clear as they should be.
http://photos.yahoo.com/[email protected]
TankII
I have:
Konis/Eibachs - 1/2 turn front, 3/4 turn rear.
Polyethelene strut-rod bushings. (McQuay-Norris/Perfect circle)
Police Subframe bushings.
Quaife (This actually gives me some understeer - otherwise the car would have oversteered at Lime Rock)
21mm front bar, 26mm rear bar.
Front bar has stock bushings and plastic links.
Rear bar has PST Graphite impregnated polyurethane body bushings. The end links (Most important!) are a Hellwig 9.5" center-to-center kit. Call them for the part numbers, and they will send you to a dealer to order them. I think FPS can get them as well. About $12.00 for the kit.
Hellwig uses a larger 3/8" rod with 1/4" larger diameter bushings. The bushings are FLAT on both sides, which means the rear sway bar has ZERO deflection - it reacts immediately. The Factory, PST, Addco, etc. bushings all are rounded on the bottom. This allows the sway bar to roll a bit before the pushing compresses and starts reacting. With the Hellwig kit, there is no movement and the bar reacts immediately. This also prevents snap oversteer since the car doesn't get the chance to settle then hit the bar.
See this link for pictures. Sorry some are not as clear as they should be.
http://photos.yahoo.com/[email protected]
TankII
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