JACKING UP A GEN4 2010 TO 2015

[RAYJAY]

ok could not find it on the search soooo...... here it goes

got the jacking /lifting info from service manual, if I jack on the lifting points, where do a put a jack stand ? or is anyone jacking on a different spot/

 

[SHOrod]

Those jacking locations are intended for use with the OEM jack that can be found in the trunk of a non-PP SHO. Since you have a PP, I assume you are asking about jacking using a more substantial floor jack.

With my floor jack I jack the front up by the subframe mounting points and position jack stands either near that location on a solid, flat, substantial part of the subframe. If I'm just placing a jackstand for safety should the jack drop, then I may position the jack stand under the lower control arm.

In the rear, I use my floor jack to jack from the location where what I'll call the rear trailing arm mounts to the body. Similar to the front, I'll place a jackstand under the lower control arm and leave the floor jack in place. I have two floor jacks which offers me a bit more flexibility in not always having to rest the vehicle on a jackstand.

Eastwood sells floor jack adapters to allow a floor jack to be used to safely jack at the pinch welds used by the OEM jack. I've not tried them or seen anyone use them to gauge how useful they would be.

-Rod

 

[RAYJAY]

same place i been jacking from just want to make sure i was in the right spot

 

[SHOrod]

No metal has deformed on my car yet, and it's also never fallen off the jack.

-Rod

 

[RAYJAY]

going to install a lift in the next couple of months, until then I still have to use the jack and stands,

there is a ton of stuff you can bend under these cars compared to the older SHO's.

 

[SilverSH0]

If I'm just placing a jackstand for safety should the jack drop, then I may position the jack stand under the lower control arm.

I've had a buddy killed with this mentality, please alter your thoughts here. A jackstand should not be a safety if the jack drops. The jack should be a safety if somehow the car comes off the jackstand. My buddy would do that, the jack fell, it didn't land on the jackstand where he thought, and he was crushed by the car. If you spend literally 10 seconds lowering it onto the jackstand it's a ton safer.

On topic, I also place my jackstands in the same location; jack from mounting point and jackstand on the thick flat part of the subframe.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

Depending on what you are jacking for can make a difference. Example if I am only lifting for tires/brakes then I usually lift the lower control arm inboard then place the jack stands near the outboard section. I use the Jackstands at the lowest setting and basically jack about one or two clicks above the jackstand then slowly lower on them. Remove axle jack then repeat for other side. Yes this tends to take a while but safety first. Brakes for example remove both wheels but only work one side at a time. Experts say to work one side at a time so you have a clean reference. I figure anything that would involve the control arm itself is probably beyond my scope and then would send out to garage with lift. I think for most of us jacking axles would mainly be for tires/brakes maybe oil change etc...

I think I have photos but need to check my archives.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

I am an idiot for not taking photos but I jacked up the car yesterday. I used a 3 ton capacity low profile axle jack from Harbor freight. I lifted at the cross frame support just inside and behind the drivers wheel. I only lifted enough to remove wheel and inspect another area. It was a quick inspection but I would recommending if doing brake work using the cross frame support (K member I believe but don't quote me. If using this support leave enough room to install jack stands but also enough room to remove tire. Another option would be the Lower Control Arm but that will be tight. The jack stand support cradle should rest just inboard of the lower ball joint. This can be tight especially with only one jack. With the tire in the way you wont be able to lift from the outboard side. The lifting would have to be inboard. which would cause the control arm to drop when the tension comes off the wheel. That step would also involve lifting the vehicle higher.

Follow up: The jack I purchased comes with a separately available extension bar. It has the ability to install on the axle pad itself and is wide enough to lift from the center and widen the lifting area. That should allow the ability to center on inside of control arm and lift both sides of vehicle evenly. Next time I am in the area I will get photos. I used the bar during my brake change on the 2013 SEL but forgot to get photos.

NOTE: Approaching the vehicle from the front and center be cautious of the lower portion of the bumper but my Low Profile jack worked even with the cross bar. The widening bar also has rubber pads to reduce risk of scratching lower portion of the bumper.