So I’m about 99% sure my MC is bad on my 2010. I’m not too keen on bending and Mickey mousing the front line to fit a 13+ MC like has been posted? I’ve upgraded the fronts to 13+ already and I’m going upgrade the rears to 13+ as well when I do the MC. The booster also seems like a PIA so I’m just thinking of getting a 2010 MC and calling it a day and just rocking the 13+ rotor and caliper upgrades. What think you?
Is master cylinder upgrade worth the hassle?
- Thread starter Dhark
- Start date
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LilCop2002
SHO Member
I did them both in my '10 and though it wasn't the prettiest it sure wasn't as hard as you might think.
Sho time in NJ
New Member
I just upgraded my brakes to the newer style but kept the 2010 MC. Brakes feel a little spongy. Did you change the booster also. Thanks
LilCop2002
SHO Member
I did. I changed everything from the master cylinder lid to the rear brakes. The only thing original is the hard lines running throughout the car.
Shadow351
SHO Member
I did the 2013 booster & MC on my 2010. I would say it wasn't difficult at all and I remember a significant increase in pedal firmness (it always felt overly spongey before), but it's been a few years since i did it. I do remember removing the knee bolster made accessing the booster mounting nuts significantly easier.
yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
Spongey feel is from rubber components swelling from hoop stress or also called circumferential stress. If the rubber brake hoses are replaced with braided line the pedal will be even more firm. Similar on cars with hydraulic clutch. There is usually alot of rubber hose but when replaced with metal pipe the pressure between the clutch pedal and slave cylinder is more direct.
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