Installing New A/C Compressor ......

[Marccus]

I was able to find a Ford Factory Compressor w/clutch (the exact part number that came with my '89 SHO).

From the compressor/clutch:

Ford Part #stamped on the metal plate on the end of the compressor housing: E9DH-19D623-AB

Ford Part # stamped on the outside of the clutch plate: E43H-19D786-AA

The Compressor is sealed and pressurized. The ports are capped with thick plastic plates that are held on with bolts and there is a Schrader valve on one of the ports where you can press on the valve and hear the gas escape.

When I ordered the Compressor from Auto Air Plus, there was the following note:

Pag 46 8 oz.

I assume this means 8 oz. of Pag oil. I don't know what the 46 means.

So my questions (and I know the first one is going to sound stupid).

1.) So I assume the only way to install the compressor is first bolt it it to the bracket, then release the pressure from the compressor and remove the plastic plates on the ports and bolt up the inlet and outlet pipes as fast as possible to minimize any air entry into the compressor.

I assume the compressor is pressurized with an inert gas (or R134a) to minimize any corrosion while it is stored.

2.) What about the 8 oz. of Pag oil? Do I have to pour that into the compressor ports once I remove the plastic plates before bolting up the pipes?

8 oz. is a lot of oil.

 

[projectSHO89]

"46" refers to the viscosity index of the PAG oil used in specified in ISO units. 46, 100, & 150 are three of the more common viscosity grades.

The compressor contains 8 oz of PAG 46 oil from the factory. That is the whole system oil charge if it has been flushed and has a new accumulator.

My guess it was shipped with a slight charge of nitrogen to prevent moisture and corrosion.

PAG 46 oil is appropriate for Ford's R134a systems, not R12. If your system has been converted, you'll be fine.

 

[rubydist]

iirc, one of the installation instructions on the new compressor is to drain out approx 4 oz of the oil charge, because they only want 4 oz in the system.

one of the other 'requirements' is that the expansion valve must be replaced with a new compressor to keep the compressor warranty intact. in other words, if you don't replace that section, there is no warranty on the compressor.

 

[Marccus]

Yes, replacing suction line w/ accumulator and discharge line w/orifice tube.

Thanks.

 

[projectSHO89]

You want 8 oz in the system. It needs to be evenly distributed there-in. Roughly 5 oz in the compressor, the rest distributed between the accumulator, evaporator, and condenser - again, assuming a "dry" system.

 

[Marccus]

So after relieving the pressure of the compressor, should I POUR some of that oil from the compressor into the discharge port of the accumulator piping BEFORE I install the piping and compressor in the car?

To get oil into the evaporator I would need a syringe to squirt it into the inlet port of the evaporator on the firewall.

I don't know if I could pour oil into the inlet port of the condenser and I may have to squirt it with a syringe also.

Any advice/knowledge on this?

Could you explain why the new piping has to be installed anyway to maintain the warranty. Although I am doing this because I figured I'd replace (as much as possible) the parts of the A/C system that are "easiest" (hah! famous last words) to ensure as successful as A/C system as possible that has no leaks. What goes "wrong" with the accumulator, etc., that it can't be reused?

Why exactly isn't the system "dry". Does dry mean there is moisture in it? There shouldn't be any moisture in it should there?

Just curious.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[Marccus]

"46" refers to the viscosity index of the PAG oil used in specified in ISO units. 46, 100, & 150 are three of the more common viscosity grades.

The compressor contains 8 oz of PAG 46 oil from the factory. That is the whole system oil charge if it has been flushed and has a new accumulator.

My guess it was shipped with a slight charge of nitrogen to prevent moisture and corrosion.

PAG 46 oil is appropriate for Ford's R134a systems, not R12. If your system has been converted, you'll be fine.

Yes, my system has been converted.