Inner tie rods?

[91 SHOplus]

Are the Moogs really that much better than the stock Motorcraft ones?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

91 SHOplus:
Are the Moogs really that much better than the stock Motorcraft ones?

Quality-wise I feel they are equal. There really isn't much rocket science to making an inner tie-rod.

The one advantage of the Moogs is they are the same design as the original tie rods, so they can be installed with the AutoZone OEM 27024 tool used to remove the old ones. The new design Motorcraft tie rods have a different size nut that doesn't use pins and requires a little more effort to install (IMHO).

 

[sdpatt]

For clarification, the "inner tie rods" are the tie rods. The only other component of the linkage between the steering rack and the steering knuckle is the tie rod end that screws onto the threaded outboard end of the tie rod. The Moogs are quite tough and installed smoothly with the borrowed tool from an auto parts store.

 

[shojuan]

The Moog outer ends are superior to the stock ends. I've heard that the redesigned Ford inner tie rods are superior to the original design Ford inners/Moog inners. The Moog inners are almost identical to the original stock design. Like Chris and Scott said the Moog inners install very easily using the same OEM 27024 tool rented at Autozone as you will need to remove the original inners. If you want to go with the Ford redesigned inners you will need to rent a whole different tool set for installation (that tool set probably has fittings that will remove the originals but I'm not sure).

Hope I'm not confusing anyone: The redesigned Ford inners are supposedly higher quality and should last longer (maybe 150,000-200,000 miles) than the Moog inners but will be more of a pain to install. The Moog inners should last 100,000 miles or so and installation is easy. Either way Moog greaseable outer ends are the way to go.

I went with Moog inners and I guess I'll probably be replacing them again after 100,000 miles. No big deal, they are super easy to replace.

 

[N3FOL]

Last Sunday, I replaced both inner and outer tie rods. The parts were all purchased from Autozone and the brand is called Perfect Circle. The inners were about $16.99 and the outer rods were $14.99 each. I had to rent the tool from autozone. Taking off the the outer was a breeze with just a little pounding. The inner tie rod was not too bad either with the help of the special tool from Autozone. Just like the moogs...the outer tie rods are greasable. *note: do not forget to replace the large boot clamp on the inner tie rod with a new one - you will need two* The whole job took me about6 hours with soda breaks in between (my first time replacing it after 117,000 miles) Above all, they have a lifetime warranty from Autozone.

After the tie rod job, I took the car to a local alignment shop and I was set. However, I had another problem...my right front wheel still had too much negative camber...(Tokicos and Eibachs will do these)..so I went ahead and ordered camber kits for the front and some for the rears as well. (The kits can actually set the camber to almost 2 degrees...now that will give you a lot to work with.

I should get the parts today and have the alignment done to almost perfect (with the kit) this weekend. I will post the part numbers the next time I log in the forum for anyone that might be interested.

 

[N3FOL]

Here is the information for SHO owners that have too much negative camber... I ordered the caster/camber kit from Northstar Automotive products web page . You will need two caster/camber kits for the front with part # 41-4605-S (Sedan) ($19.99 each). You might also need at least four bushings for the rear (2 on each side) with part # 46-131-S($20.00 each). This will allow camber changes at least 1/2 degrees or more.

I had a local alignment shop do the install which took about 3 hours. Everything worked well. Now my SHO stands at attention . Hope that this information is useful to anyone... Good Luck.

 

[shoinoff95]

N3FOL:
Here is the information for SHO owners that have too much negative camber... I ordered the caster/camber kit from Northstar Automotive products web page . You will need two caster/camber kits for the front with part # 41-4605-S (Sedan) ($19.99 each). You might also need at least four bushings for the rear (2 on each side) with part # 46-131-S($20.00 each). This will allow camber changes at least 1/2 degrees or more.

I had a local alignment shop do the install which took about 3 hours. Everything worked well. Now my SHO stands at attention . Hope that this information is useful to anyone... Good Luck.

Great find!! I will have to be using some kind of caster/camber kit for my SHO after I lower it as soon as I purchase my strut mounts, bearings, and bushings. You stated that you will need two camber kits for the front, but on the website, it says: "Kit Includes: (2) caster/camber plates & all necessary mounting hardware." So won't you only have to buy just one kit for both front struts??

Another question is that doesn't the front camber kit/plates replace the strut mount that usually has to be replaced when adding new struts, or does this plate just go over the top of the factory/police strut mounts? I need to know so that way I won't be purchasing more parts than needed!!

 

[N3FOL]

Shoinoff95...

When I ordered mine, they came with one set for just one side. I have to order two kits. If the website says two of each in a kit, just make sure that this is what they really meant. I would play safe and call their toll free number for assurance.

Answer to your next question...yes...you will have to discard the upper mounting plate and use the supplied mounting plate with more adapters in the kit. If you are installing a new strut at the same time, you must also remove the upper spring seat and bearing assembly, bumper, dust boot and compressed spring.

Hope this is helpful. Good Luck.