Inner Tie Rod Specialty Tool

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N3FOL

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I am planning to replace my inner and outer rie rods this weekend. Where can I purchase an inner tie rod specialty tool. Our local Advanced Auto cannot get the tool for me. I did a search for this and I came up with a 'LISLE' tool with part # 45750. Any information is great appreciated. Thank you.
 

gimpysho

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Anytime I've needed a speciality tool I've tracked down a Snapon or Matco dealer. They take CreditCards. Snapon can be pricey but quality is best.
 

N3FOL

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Thanks to all for the information. I will try to catch a Snap On truck or Matco tool representative in our area. If not successful, I will just order the tool from 'The Tool Warehouse'. I will get the part today, Sunday, then sounds like it will the next weekend that I will get the chance to install the tie rods. ETC1006, you are right, I've read the sticky for the inner tie rod replacement. It was very informative but there is just one part that I wasn't so sure about. It is the part where you use a large adjustable wrench that will prevent the steering rack from moving. I don't know exactly where to hold the rack - is it the opposite side of the rack? I will have to contact the author of the sticky and find out where exactly should I place the wrench... Regards,
 

SHO_of_SD

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I have order from thetoolwarehouse before... :thumb: ... very pleased with product and fast delivery along with price. Lisle is a good brand for a do it yourselfer. But autozone, or a CSK store should have them available for rent.
 

FAST4DR

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N3FOL said:
Thanks to all for the information. I will try to catch a Snap On truck or Matco tool representative in our area. If not successful, I will just order the tool from 'The Tool Warehouse'. I will get the part today, Sunday, then sounds like it will the next weekend that I will get the chance to install the tie rods. ETC1006, you are right, I've read the sticky for the inner tie rod replacement. It was very informative but there is just one part that I wasn't so sure about. It is the part where you use a large adjustable wrench that will prevent the steering rack from moving. I don't know exactly where to hold the rack - is it the opposite side of the rack? I will have to contact the author of the sticky and find out where exactly should I place the wrench... Regards,

I didn't use a wrench to hold anything. I torqued the new inner tie rods without a problem or without holding anything extra.

Will
 

Mr Anonymous

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Free Loan-a-Tool at AutoZone makes a lot more sense for a tool you probably won't need to use again... All you do is leave a deposit which they return when you bring back the tool. :thumb:
 

LeddZepp8687

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I actually used a pulley puller to pull it off, doesnt sound like it would work but trust me, it did.. I tried damn near everthing and then I got the idea to just try it, and sure enough it worked great!! I had 2 size pullers, one smaller one and a larger one, the larger one worked...
 
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shoebilly

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The tool is simple and straight forward. Basically a tube with a lug on the end or a very deep socket. On my 89' s I find there is a set pin that needs to be tapped thru to the center before the rod lug will turn off freely. I'v yet to here any onre mention this. The pin will shear off but consequently damaging the threads on the end of the rack. If this pin is removed the tie rod end will turn off quit effortlessly. There is a corsponding pin hole in the rod lug. I am not sure if this is a SHO specfic rod end or not. Maybe. Comments?
 

DeRrTy_DeViLlE

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i havent heard this mentioned but i just did it a couple weeks ago with a basic 1-5/16" wrench. my 92 lx didnt have a pin but the new inners came with a set screw. it wrenched off fairly easily too. i took a look and the inner/outter tie rod ends appear to be the same on most if not all 86-95 taurus/sho cars.
 

TYSHO

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shoebilly said:
On my 89' s I find there is a set pin that needs to be tapped thru to the center before the rod lug will turn off freely. I'v yet to here any onre mention this. The pin will shear off but consequently damaging the threads on the end of the rack. If this pin is removed the tie rod end will turn off quit effortlessly. There is a corsponding pin hole in the rod lug. I am not sure if this is a SHO specfic rod end or not. Maybe. Comments?

Yep, I never heard of it and ended up replacing the rack! :doh: I thought the inner tie rod was just tight, so I pulled out the big ol' breaker bar and actually broke some things like threads! :rofl:

DON'T FORGET THE PINS!
 

N3FOL

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FAST4DR said:
I didn't use a wrench to hold anything. I torqued the new inner tie rods without a problem or without holding anything extra.

Will

Why is that the instructions specifically said to hold the 'teeth of the rack' to prevent it from spinning or else I will end up replacing the whole rack as well? My SHO is a 95, maybe the 1st and 2nd gen. SHO are slightly different? So you said that you just took off the allen screw lock from the inner tie rod and then take off the tie rod - re-torque for installation w/o holding the rack. I do not want to be the one to find out that my rack needs to be replaced. Please advise.
 

TYSHO

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You do not need anything to hold the rack, that's what the nuts-to-frame are for. If your rack is moving with those torqued down, I can't imagine how it reacts in turns! :oogle:


Edit: If your steering column shaft is disconnected and the outter tie rods are disconnected, the rack will move. Maybe this is what they're talking about since it has teeth. Anyhow, you wont disconnect that shaft for an inner tie rod service and the rack moves like that when you turn, so why whould it hurt the rack? :shrug:
 

etc1006

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I think you got it TY. Just keep the steering column locked (keys out of it).They're probably thinking we went to the trouble of putting it on the bench... :laugh_ti: I'd personally leave the other side together anyway, til/if I was was ready to do it. Ya gotta love the people who write directions for stuff sometimes.
 

N3FOL

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Steering Column Lock

etc1006 said:
I think you got it TY. Just keep the steering column locked (keys out of it).They're probably thinking we went to the trouble of putting it on the bench... :laugh_ti: I'd personally leave the other side together anyway, til/if I was was ready to do it. Ya gotta love the people who write directions for stuff sometimes.
Now that explains it for me. I should remember to lock the steering column in order to prevent any damage to the rack...This weekend, I will p/u the part from Autozone and rent the tool as well. Thanks to all for the response.
 

FAST4DR

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Yeah, I guess they were talking about having the rack on a bench or something. I did one side at a time and nothing moved. Actually I can't see how it would move anyhow. You don't need to pull or push on the rack, just a twisting motion to unscrew the inner tie rod and the rack doesn't move in that motion anyhow. Maybe they don't want you to put too much pressure or twisting motion on the rack. I'm not sure, but I never had any problems. I've never had a rack apart, so I don't know what's inside them or if twisting motion will hurt them.

Will

Here is a picture of my 95's original tie rod. I knocked the head off the rivet but did not drill it out. If I remember correctly, It was made out of aluminum and I just turned the tie rod out and it did not hurt the threads. Of course the new inner tie rod is a different design that you can't get a standard inner tie rod tool over and doesn't have a rivet. The new ones I got were torqued to a specific torque, which I don't remember.

DSCF0372.JPG
 

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