inner tie rod ends

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

92yamaha

New Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2004
Messages
63
Reaction score
0
Location
ky
hey, i just bought a pair of outer tie rod ends and had no problem putting them on , but in ordeer to do an alignment on the car i ahve to replace the inner ones too. So i bought those too and read the whole article on shotimes faq and did everything what was writen on there, but still have some problems finding the right tools to finish the job. I got the brather tube off on both inner rods and i can see that there is a little pin in the tie rod but have no idea how to take it out or if i even have to take it out in order to get the inner tie rod out. It looks to me that the size on the tie rod is about 34mm or 36mm but i am not sure. If anyone knows how to replace them and what tools i need, please reply. i would appriciate if some one could give me the next step , because my car is in the garage with new tie rods next to it. thanks
 

sdpatt

Sr. SHO Engr.
Joined
Dec 6, 2000
Messages
9,670
Reaction score
383
Location
Dallas, TX
The "inner tie rod end" is really the tie rod with its self contained inner ball joint. You need to use a chisel or flathead screwdriver to break off that rivet head and a loaned tie rod tool set from your local auto supply to loosen the 1-3/16" inner nut. There will be a rivet with the new tie rod.

I just replaced one Firday (April 22). It's about a one hour job with the loaned tool. Be careful to use a Crescent wrench on the rack to prevent appying torque to the rack when removing and installing the tie rod.
 

DHMag

Free At Last
Joined
Jun 11, 2002
Messages
2,935
Reaction score
1
Location
InCahoots, Texas
listen to Scott, he knows his stuff.

though, i will add my .02. the rivet is aluminum. if you cant remove it, just start unscreweing the tie rod, itll be a little tough but it wont harm anything. while an inner tie rod tool makes removal and installion easier, i found my factory tie rod to have a different hex size than the aftermarket. i did not rent/use the tool specified, i used a cresent wrench. it was tight, but i managed to replace them.
 

SonicRiot

Handbanana!
Joined
Nov 27, 2003
Messages
1,252
Reaction score
1
Location
CT
I would seriously not recommend the above procudure. If you can't get the pin out, drill it or you WILL be replacing the rack.


My recent senario:

I felt a severe vibration and pulling and quickly pinpointed a spun stub shaft and bad wheel bearing on the passenger side of my SHO. Upon removing the knuckle, it dawned on me that this would be a good time to replace my worn tie rods and take the slop out of the steering.

Upon removal of the boot, I noticed that the inner tie rod ball was not really worn. Instead, the inner tie rod was slopping back and forth where the nut attatched to the rack. I drilled out the rivet (because the head was gone, obviously cut) and the friggen thing just would't come off, even with the rented tool.

I consulted my grandfather, who was a front-end specialist for 40+ years. He told me it looks like I needed to cut it.

So I did. Cut the tie-rod down the middle of the nut, just enough to spread it and spin it off.

My discovery was grim: A stripped rack end with TONS of loctite... like a donut around the backside of the tie rod. Some ******** hack job broke the rivet head and tried to do the above procedure, spin the thing off with the pin still in the tie rod. He/she ended up stripping the **** out of the rack and globbing Loctite on it to "remedy" the problem. Fortunately for me, the end never popped off during my 1.5 year ownership of the vehicle.

Since there were about 3 threads left on the rack end, I had to replace it. $200 for an A1C reman, and that's the crappy one with my discount (versus the Ford reman, which is hard to find and about $100+ more).

That was a month ago. The rack is going in tonight, the old one drained overnight. Oh yeah, I'm doing this on my back in the garage b/c I couldn't drive it to a lift and couldn't afford a tow.


So, DON'T SPIN the INNER TIE ROD WITHOUT REMOVING THE PIN FIRST!!!!!!!
 

sdpatt

Sr. SHO Engr.
Joined
Dec 6, 2000
Messages
9,670
Reaction score
383
Location
Dallas, TX
The A1 Cardone reman for the standard Taurus is only $59.99 at O'Reilly. The only thing that makes it SHO specific is the spacers inside the tie rod inner nut that can be removed from the old rack.
 

SonicRiot

Handbanana!
Joined
Nov 27, 2003
Messages
1,252
Reaction score
1
Location
CT
It's a different ratio than the standard Taurus rack.
 

DHMag

Free At Last
Joined
Jun 11, 2002
Messages
2,935
Reaction score
1
Location
InCahoots, Texas
aluminum rivet vs metal shaft.



SonicRiot said:
I would seriously not recommend the above procudure. If you can't get the pin out, drill it or you WILL be replacing the rack.


My recent senario:

I felt a severe vibration and pulling and quickly pinpointed a spun stub shaft and bad wheel bearing on the passenger side of my SHO. Upon removing the knuckle, it dawned on me that this would be a good time to replace my worn tie rods and take the slop out of the steering.

Upon removal of the boot, I noticed that the inner tie rod ball was not really worn. Instead, the inner tie rod was slopping back and forth where the nut attatched to the rack. I drilled out the rivet (because the head was gone, obviously cut) and the friggen thing just would't come off, even with the rented tool.

I consulted my grandfather, who was a front-end specialist for 40+ years. He told me it looks like I needed to cut it.

So I did. Cut the tie-rod down the middle of the nut, just enough to spread it and spin it off.

My discovery was grim: A stripped rack end with TONS of loctite... like a donut around the backside of the tie rod. Some ******** hack job broke the rivet head and tried to do the above procedure, spin the thing off with the pin still in the tie rod. He/she ended up stripping the **** out of the rack and globbing Loctite on it to "remedy" the problem. Fortunately for me, the end never popped off during my 1.5 year ownership of the vehicle.

Since there were about 3 threads left on the rack end, I had to replace it. $200 for an A1C reman, and that's the crappy one with my discount (versus the Ford reman, which is hard to find and about $100+ more).

That was a month ago. The rack is going in tonight, the old one drained overnight. Oh yeah, I'm doing this on my back in the garage b/c I couldn't drive it to a lift and couldn't afford a tow.


So, DON'T SPIN the INNER TIE ROD WITHOUT REMOVING THE PIN FIRST!!!!!!!
 

SonicRiot

Handbanana!
Joined
Nov 27, 2003
Messages
1,252
Reaction score
1
Location
CT
Hey, what can I say, it's your rack. Do it your way. Just don't cry the one time it happens, because you've been warned.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,077
Messages
1,181,195
Members
16,141
Latest member
grapnelg

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top