Hp/tq gains with 3.0 intake cams on a 3.2??

[broke1]

Cool.....

I guess I'll just leave the stock cams in.....now would be the time to do it while it's all apart bcause it would add 1-3 hours(I've already planned a whole day for the job),I'm not going back in Except for the next 60k service....

If any1 could tell me for certain it would only lose a small amount of tq below 4k(say lose 5-8wtq max while gaining 15whp/10tq past 4k,I could live with it bcause it shouldn't be real noticeable with other mods.

 

[jimtash]

Dude, I've got a 3.2 MTX with 3.0 cams. Trust me, you'll be happy.

 

[93markVIII]

Dude, I've got a 3.2 MTX with 3.0 cams. Trust me, you'll be happy.

yeah but he's got an ATX.

 

[rubydist]

putting in 3.0 intake cams gives you 3.0 intake valve timing. It does not matter if you put it in a 3.0 or a 3.2, you get 3.0 valve timing with 3.0 cams. That is because the cams are different.

 

[broke1]

Yep,I've got an ATX so that makes this the million dollar question.....

Will the MTX intake cams help in a ATX combo with the mods listed above?)I'll also be blocking off the hot water that flows to the tb along with shutting off the egr.

Like I said,small loss in tq(5-8wtq below 4k)wouldn't/shouldn't be that noticeable as the other mods I've performing should give me that 5-8wtq back below 4k. And if I can gain 8-10whp/8-10wtq above 4k,I think everyone would agree that it would be a good budget upgrade and the time to do it is while it's apart(no buying parts/gaskets twice) and only adding 1-3 hours vs 6-8 hours to do it again......

 

[Slo-Sho]

If you use the 3.2 intake chain flanges on the 3.0 cams you shouldn't lose much if anything down low since the camshaft timing will be 4* advanced compared to the 3.0 cam chain flanges, with more lift and duration on the 3.0 intake lobes.

Camshaft timing relative to the crank is totally different from valve timing (duration) which is where folks are getting lost....

Bottom line DO IT! I have the shims and the OTC valve lash tools if you are unable to source your own.

 

[rubydist]

Slo-Sho, you need to stop passing on bs where you don't know what you are talking about.

The cam timing of the 3.0 is different from the 3.2. That is due to the cam, nothing else. Therefore, if you put 3.0 cams in the 3.2, you get 3.0 valve timing. The "cam chain flanges" have absolutely nothing to do with the cam timing difference between 3.0 and 3.2 cams. The cam timing relative to the crank is due to how the cam is made (assuming you install the belt correctly.)

The only one who is "lost" on this topic is you.

 

[Slo-Sho]

Slo-Sho, you need to stop passing on bs where you don't know what you are talking about.

The cam timing of the 3.0 is different from the 3.2. That is due to the cam, nothing else. Therefore, if you put 3.0 cams in the 3.2, you get 3.0 valve timing. The "cam chain flanges" have absolutely nothing to do with the cam timing difference between 3.0 and 3.2 cams. The cam timing relative to the crank is due to how the cam is made (assuming you install the belt correctly.)

The only one who is "lost" on this topic is you.

Hey space cadet can you not read plain english?

As per SHO NUT

"As a primer, here are the measured specs of the stock cams:

MTX Intake 0.348” Lift, 205° Duration @ 0.050”

MTX Exhaust 0.328” Lift, 201° Duration @ 0.050”


ATX Intake 0.328” Lift, 201° Duration @ 0.050”

ATX Exhaust 0.328” Lift, 201° Duration @ 0.050”



The ATX Intake chain ****** is also advanced 4 crankshaft degrees relative to the MTX cam. As the Intake chain ****** is what drives the Exhaust cam, this effectively advances the Exhaust cam in an engine with ATX cams by 4 crankshaft degrees, which also reduces the overlap by 4 crankshaft degrees. Compounded with less duration on the ATX intake lobe, there is substantially less overlap with the stock ATX cams. In total, there is 6 crankshaft degrees less overlap, 4° due to the advanced exhaust cam, and 2° due to 4° less intake duration (1/2 of the total duration difference). Note that if you are regrinding cams, it is critical that both intake cams be either MTX or ATX, or you will have mis-matched exhaust lobe centerlines between banks due to the 4° difference between MTX and ATX exhaust cam timing, as driven by the intake cam flanges."

Here is the link


It's not me saying it...It's you RUBYDIST who FAILS to comprehend such a simple concept like RESEARCH instead of shooting your mouth off from the hip. Go ahead and run head strong into a brick wall, I can do this all day with you. Facts are facts, your 'spin' on anything SHO related is just hot air and anyone who would listen to or take your advice better be careful. I seen that pic of your motor mount you put together for your 3.2 mtx with the bits and pieces of angle iron...man I hope you don't cost anyone their time or money. SHOforum know it all thugz, gotta luv 'em.
Oh and way to turn a members thread into a shitstorm, guess you have a knack for that, huh slick?

 

[jimtash]

 

[sperold]

Everyone likes a good discussion.
Lots of good ideas and at least a couple of points of contention.
Now, on with the SHO.

 

[rubydist]

For those of you who know how to read and comprehend, you will realize that what SHONUT says means that if you install 3.0 intake cams, you get 3.0 valve timing, whether you install them in a 3.2 engine or a 3.0 engine.

 

[sperold]

It must be remembered that the SHOs are not able to have a variety of final gear ratios. I think it is somewhere around 3.7 for the standards, which luckily enough, is not bad.
Other cars have the option of installing 3.9, 4.11, 4.56, the list goes on. This dramatically changes the rate of acceleration, and decreases the stress on the components, as the launch is easier, and high revs pay off with 4.56 gears installed.

Knowing that gear changes are not possible, you have to work with what you have. And that is the area under the curve thing.

Also remember that everything is based on torque, Horsepower is an arithmetic calculation.... you can actually measure torque. That is the thing you have to optimize in your part of the graph.

With the automatic, the SHO torque converter is already a fairly high stall speed unit. If you can develop a truly high stall speed converter (where you can begin to use the higher HP situation), then you can begin to optimize the situation where your highest torque numbers are further up the rpm scale. On the street, it will be a lot more thirsty, but that is a trade-off you have to face.