How to install struts????

[SHOguy 92]

I just bought some rear Monroe Sensatrac struts and my dad has installed struts before so me and him could do this I don't know if he'd be too enthused, but I'm sure he'd help. But here's my question, exactly how hard is it to instal rear struts and how long does it take? I heard it's pretty hard.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Cake.

after doing it once, I bet ya I could do a rear spring strut install in less than an hour. Assuming I dont break any bolts

Check out the Autozone.com repair guides. There is an excellent step-by-step procedure.

 

[Chris Benvie]

I've done it a few times now.

I actually found the fronts harder than the rears. I did not need to take the rear deck or rear seats out. I just had a short buddy of mine hop in the trunk and take care of it from in there. Worked a whole lot better.

Did the whole suspension with 2 friends in a little under 8 hours the first time. Not really rushing of course and we got stuck on the right rear strut, it just wouldn't come out so we ended up cutting it in half with a sawzall. Interesting none the less.


While your in there you might as well get the MOOG CC from mikey for $129 it will be worth it in the stance of your car as the springs are more than likely sagging.

Once you do the suspension, it becomes easy as pie. (or cake as kenny put it)

 

[SHOguy 92]

Yeah I know I would so love to get the Moog's while I'm at it and remove some coils (not with a torch ). But My springs are actually not sagging on this car, now the 90's those are beyond saggy. Plus I only have a few spare $$$ laying around I saved $200 and on my next payday in 2 weeks I get full exhaust with hiflow cats 2.5" piping all the way back I can't wait for that, it's going to be so nice my passenger side cat's got a few little holes so it'll be nice when the exhaust gets on.

 

[93redATX]

As others have said, it isn't too "hard", as in, it's a simple procedure. However, if your car is rusty, have fun. Also, watch out for snapping the pinch bolts on the spindles. That will really ruin your day, because it's a major PITA to fix. Other than that, not too difficult.

Glad I'm not the only one that's ever cut a strut in half with a sawzall

 

[DHMag]

went from stock struts/springs to Tokicos/Cargo Coils in 6 hours solo.

 

[92SHOmine_since_new]

Rear strut removal and disassembly

My procedure, tested on my '92. Credit goes to the Shotimes strut walk-through, previous posts here, plus an innovation or two of my own.

The biggest challenge in removing the stock rear struts is that they have a very long "tail" that extends through the spindle clamp. Some extra effort is necessary to get the spindle to move down enough so the strut can be freed, but it's not bad at all if you follow the procedure. You will need a spring compressor for this. You do not need to remove the back seat.


1) Climb in the trunk and locate the 3 (13 mm) nuts at the top of each strut tower that hold the upper mount in place. They are in the extreme forward upper corners of the trunk, covered by a piece of felt.
2) Move the felt out of the way. It tends to catch on the protruding threads. A putty knife can help it slide over. It takes some tugging but it will move.
3) Use a 13 mm wrench, or even better a ratchet box end, to loosen the 3 nuts on each side about 1-1/2 turns. NOT all the way! It's a tight reach to one nut, but you can do it.
4) Jack the rear and place jackstands securely on the frame rails just forward of the rear tension strut nut (big rod that goes from the bottom of the spindle forward to the frame). Assure the vehicle is stable on the stands. Safety first!!
5) Remove the rear tires (duh ).
6) Disconnect brake proportioning valve from link on driver's side.
7) Disconnect brake line bracket from strut.
8) Remove top nut, washer and bushing from the sway bar link rod. Loosen bottom nut.
9) Loosen the sway bar mounting bolts on both sides, but do not remove.
10) Loosen nut on tension strut (big rod) at the spindle.
11) Apply penetrating oil, and then remove spindle pinch bolt that clamps strut body in place. Do not use an impact tool or you may break the bolt.
12) Pry pinch joint open slightly using a large screwdriver.
13) Use a hammer and block of wood on the top of the spindle near the strut to drive it downward. It should move pretty easily. As the suspension comes down, you will have clearance to rotate the sway bar down and free the link rod from the strut. Now here is a catch! If it's a stock strut, the suspension will not go down anywhere near enough to get the strut body out of the clamp on the spindle. Aftermarket struts like the Monroe Sensa-Track have a shorter "tail" and those may come free without the next step.
14) I came up with this trick to get the strut free of the clamp. Reach up the wheel well and install your spring compressor. I used the basic type; two threaded rods with hooks at each end. Tighten it up a fair amount, but not anywhere near the limit. Compressing the spring allows the strut to shorten.
15) Now drive the spindle down more. It may take a couple of iterations of tightening the spring and driving the spindle down but the suspension will be able to go down enough as the strut shortens to get it free.
16) Back in the trunk, mark one of the 3 studs and its hole so you can get the upper strut mount back in the exact same holes when you re-install it.
17) One of the nuts is more difficult to reach than the other two, so remove it first. Once it's loosened to hand tight, you may be able to get just one finger on each hand in there, but that's enough to work it. It's tight in there, but nothing compared to some of the stuff I've run into on airplanes. The other two nuts are a piece of cake. After removing the last nut the strut will be free to fall out, so a helper or some improvising to temporarily hold it from falling is advised.
18) Remove strut; Yes!!
19) Mark all of the pieces in the strut assembly for orientation to each other so you can re-assemble it the same way it is now.
20) Make sure the spring is properly compressed with the spring compressor tool to remove tension. ATTEMPTING TO DISASSEMBLE THE STRUT WHILE THE SPRING IS UNDER LOAD MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. ASSURE YOUR SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL IS USED PER MANUFACTURER INSTRUCTIONS TO RELIEVE THE TENSION.
21) Place a 10 mm 1/4" drive socket and extension on the rod. Put a 1/2" drive 13/16" spark plug socket over the extension and onto the big nut. Put a wrench on the hex part of the socket, and a 1/4" breaker bar (preferably one with a lifetime warranty ) on the extension protruding through the socket. You may need to remove the rubber from inside the plug socket for this to work.
22) Hold the breaker bar to keep the rod from turning while you loosen the big nut with the plug socket and wrench. As a safety precaution stand to the side, not in front of the nut and spring, and wear heavy work gloves while you do this.
23) Disassemble carefully noting the stack-up of the parts for reassembly.