Terrorizer
SHO or ****
Hey guys, I have the symptoms of a bad cam sensor. Hard starts, bucking, erratic/dying tach, etc. I was wondering if there was a way I could test it? I'd hate to buy and replace the part just to have it not fix anything.
How do you test cid / cam sensor
- Thread starter Terrorizer
- Start date
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do you have a code for a cam sensor or something else? your symptoms should have set at least one code.
they are not that expensive, just buy a new one if that is the code you have.
they are not that expensive, just buy a new one if that is the code you have.
Terrorizer
SHO or ****
The check engine light isn't on now, but it has been flashing on for a second then turning off from time to time. I did a KOEO test and codes 14,19, 22, 29, and 67 were stored.
Like I said though, I am not a fan of just throwing parts/money/time at a car hoping it will fix the problem. Its not uncommon for people to replace the CID and not have it fix the problem.
From searching threads it sounds like another common cause of these problems is a bad ground. Where is the ground I should check?
Like I said though, I am not a fan of just throwing parts/money/time at a car hoping it will fix the problem. Its not uncommon for people to replace the CID and not have it fix the problem.
From searching threads it sounds like another common cause of these problems is a bad ground. Where is the ground I should check?
Terrorizer
SHO or ****
The reason I am hesistant to just replace the cid is the problems are intermittent. It started doing this really bad a few months ago for a few days, then stopped and ran fine for a couple months and started doing it again recently. Even know it will run ok sometimes though.
I'd erase all the stored codes, drive it for a day or two and then re-run a scan just to make sure the codes are legit.
You have one ground strap at the back of the intake that goes to the firewall. There are plenty of ground wires in the harness though and a few in separate single connectors. One is at the crank sensor connector and another is behind the engine in the 4 connector junction next to the head.
You have one ground strap at the back of the intake that goes to the firewall. There are plenty of ground wires in the harness though and a few in separate single connectors. One is at the crank sensor connector and another is behind the engine in the 4 connector junction next to the head.
Terrorizer
SHO or ****
Do you know which ground is related to the cid? Is the fact that the problem comes and goes indicative of a bad ground?
Could be heat related. If it was a bad ground, more than likely it would happen constantly.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/ignition_module/2.3L/ignition_module_test_1.php
The link deals with the 2.3L ignition system but the SHO is basically the same.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/ignition_module/2.3L/ignition_module_test_1.php
The link deals with the 2.3L ignition system but the SHO is basically the same.
typical symptoms of bad cam sensor will start as intermittent and get worse with time. the problem is, that while a dead cam sensor will allow the car to run properly once started, a sick cam sensor can actually cause the engine to stall.
Frisbeeguy
Member
For awhile when I was experiencing intermittent symptoms like yours I'd wriggle the wires bundle leading into it & it'd immediately run better.
Frisbeeguy
Member
See this thread: especially post #104:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=118453
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=118453
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=118453
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=118453
Terrorizer
SHO or ****
The thread doesn't have 104 posts.
Terrorizer
SHO or ****
Lately the car has started to die or stall when I am stopped at a light, but this only happens sometimes. Also, in addition to the tachometer cutting out and the general jerking/bucking, the tachometer has started to erratically jump up and down at times. The check engine light flashes on and off sometimes but never stays on. Last night while idleing in a drive through I heard a grinding noise as the rpms dropped before stalling.
I did a key on engine off test and got the following codes: 11 (system ok), but the following codes were stored: 14, 19, 22, 29, 66, and 67.
Does a bad cam sensor ever cause a grinding nosie? I've heard it before when the rpms drop but it immediately goes away, last night it was a lot louder and the noise lasted longer.
I did a key on engine off test and got the following codes: 11 (system ok), but the following codes were stored: 14, 19, 22, 29, 66, and 67.
Does a bad cam sensor ever cause a grinding nosie? I've heard it before when the rpms drop but it immediately goes away, last night it was a lot louder and the noise lasted longer.
Terrorizer
SHO or ****
yikes, thanks for the heads up, ill get on that.
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