Hose Leak and Engine Code Question

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hubbardry

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My SHO has been kind of a problem child. It's a 2011 non-PP. I've had both turbos replaced twice and a new long block put in about 2000 miles ago. Now I'm having some stuttering issues. Mostly when I lightly accelerate. If I step on the gas there's no stuttering.

I am getting an air leaking sound from the part in the photo. It's located right next to the master brake cylinder near the back of the engine. A: what is this part called? B: Is it supposed to have some air loss?

I am also getting engine code P0430 From what I can tell by research, it's more than likely an issue with the Catalytic Converter.

I'm going back to the shop that put the new motor and turbos in tomorrow. I have very little confidence in him (however the engine is under his warranty) He literally had my car for 5 months.

Any insight is helpful.
Thank you!
 

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luigisho

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5 months? good lord and good luck. You need to get this running and if the odo mileage is good enough get a Ford backed warranty unless this is a knock around second car.
 

SHOdded

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That is a brake vacuum hose I think? You have to buy the entire assembly IIRC, or you can try to make your own if it needs replacement. Maybe clamps are all that will be needed to shut down that leak.

Stuttering can be chafing knock sensor wiring, check that first and insulate the wiring regardless.

Replacing an engine nowadays is quite a detailed task. Always something that gets left out or forgotten. Humans being human.

Was the code there before engine replacement? Did any fuel dump into the cats? You may need a) new plugs, and/or (b) new oxygen sensors on bank 2. I would have thought new plugs with the replacement engine but ya never know. Plus you are inheriting any issues the replacement engine may have had (hopefully none).

Clean the IAT and MAP sensors with MAF sensor/electronics cleaner, reset codes, see what comes back.
 

stripSHO

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My F150 used to get a heavy stutter on light tip-in, but was fine if you got on it harder. The dealership said the torque converter was bad. I just had a shop flush the trans and it's been problem free for about 90,000 miles now.
 

FiveLeeter918

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P0430 is typically a catalyst inefficiency code. Basically saying your bank 2 rear cat isn't functioning. A set of Big Daddy defoulers will fix this, or you can put the downpipes and see what the actual issue is.
 

hubbardry

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P0430 is typically a catalyst inefficiency code. Basically saying your bank 2 rear cat isn't functioning. A set of Big Daddy defoulers will fix this, or you can put the downpipes and see what the actual issue is.
That is a brake vacuum hose I think? You have to buy the entire assembly IIRC, or you can try to make your own if it needs replacement. Maybe clamps are all that will be needed to shut down that leak.

Stuttering can be chafing knock sensor wiring, check that first and insulate the wiring regardless.

Replacing an engine nowadays is quite a detailed task. Always something that gets left out or forgotten. Humans being human.

Was the code there before engine replacement? Did any fuel dump into the cats? You may need a) new plugs, and/or (b) new oxygen sensors on bank 2. I would have thought new plugs with the replacement engine but ya never know. Plus you are inheriting any issues the replacement engine may have had (hopefully none).

Clean the IAT and MAP sensors with MAF sensor/electronics cleaner, reset codes, see what comes back.

No code before the engine replace. New plugs were put in at the time the engine was changed. Along with the water pump, radiator, intercooler, many sensors (at least they were all supposed to be. Before the new engine, I had turbo failures that dumped oil through the cats. I'm pretty sure that's the issue. Thanks for the good info.
 

hubbardry

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My F150 used to get a heavy stutter on light tip-in, but was fine if you got on it harder. The dealership said the torque converter was bad. I just had a shop flush the trans and it's been problem free for about 90,000 miles now.
I'll have that done.
 

hubbardry

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5 months? good lord and good luck. You need to get this running and if the odo mileage is good enough get a Ford backed warranty unless this is a knock around second car.

It should be brand new now. However it's still a problem child. I'll look into a warranty. Never had much use for them, but this car is the exception to that rule.
 

hubbardry

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No code before the engine replace. New plugs were put in at the time the engine was changed. Along with the water pump, radiator, intercooler, many sensors (at least they were all supposed to be. Before the new engine, I had turbo failures that dumped oil through the cats. I'm pretty sure that's the issue. Thanks for the good info.

Will the defoulers help with the actual issue, or only the check engine light?
 

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