help with stuck valves

[stevensclan5]

Rebuilding my 3.0 has been a 2 year project as I was overseas for a year. While gone I had my heads sent to a local machinist (now out of business), to have the valve seats ground and new seals (which I furnished from RCM) installed. When I got the heads back they where assembled up to placing the valve buckets back on the valve assembly. I installed valve buckets and cams. During valve clearance I found the one of the valves depressed but would not return to closed. Further inspection revealed one more stuck vavle and a slowly returning valve on the L head and a stuck valve on the R head. ( don't believe in coincidences)

So I removed the L head only to find I cannot get the valve buckets off of the valve/spring assembly. I tried rotating with a hammer and screw driver in the slot and it rotates but with alot of resistance so I quit that. Ive sprayed several types of break free in the space and little runs down the crack if any. tried grabbing the lip with vise grips, tried picks (thought maybe rotunda had a special tool to remove them utilizing the inner groove under the shim seat) I've even tried magnets.

I can depress the valve to the full open position and can close it with a lite tap of the rubber mallet.

Any clues as to how to get the valve buckets off? I cannot find the problem of why the valve is sticking until I can get the valve assembly apart.

Any help or suggestions appreciated

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Just keep spraying penetrant in there and working the valve for a while. Another thing you might try is use a valve lapping suction cup tool to first see if you can get the bucket to rotate reasonably freely and then try to pull it off.

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

Rebuilding my 3.0 has been a 2 year project as I was overseas for a year. While gone I had my heads sent to a local machinist (now out of business), to have the valve seats ground and new seals (which I furnished from RCM) installed. When I got the heads back they where assembled up to placing the valve buckets back on the valve assembly. I installed valve buckets and cams. During valve clearance I found the one of the valves depressed but would not return to closed. Further inspection revealed one more stuck vavle and a slowly returning valve on the L head and a stuck valve on the R head. ( don't believe in coincidences)

So I removed the L head only to find I cannot get the valve buckets off of the valve/spring assembly. I tried rotating with a hammer and screw driver in the slot and it rotates but with alot of resistance so I quit that. Ive sprayed several types of break free in the space and little runs down the crack if any. tried grabbing the lip with vise grips, tried picks (thought maybe rotunda had a special tool to remove them utilizing the inner groove under the shim seat) I've even tried magnets.

I can depress the valve to the full open position and can close it with a lite tap of the rubber mallet.

Any clues as to how to get the valve buckets off? I cannot find the problem of why the valve is sticking until I can get the valve assembly apart.

Any help or suggestions appreciated

theres a trick i learned on how to free stuck valves that works grate.. just take a small torch and heat up the stem(go in from the intake or exhuast port if u can dont do it from up top.) get it as hot as u can and the valve spring will pull the valve str8 (if its bent that is) its worth a try only takes a couple mins depending on how much heat u use

just my 2 cents
-Turbo Bob

 

[pjtoledo]

Try to epoxie a bolt head to the cam follower cup. Epoxie won't stick to oil, so clean it real good with some solvent. Once out of the head, chip away to remove the epoxie, it won't be as hard as the steel. And, uh, don't get careless and glue the cup in the head!!!!

Or perhaps a large version of a lifter extraction tool, think truck or industrial size.


Perry

 

[stevensclan5]

I thought of the heat method but figured the steel bucket would expand faster than the aluminum in the head (maybe liquid nitrogen on the bucket to contract it?)

The valves are no longer stuck open as i have the heads off and closed it with the mallet.

The buckets in question dont rotate real freely, I tried that for a while until I got that feeling of counterproductivity and/or possible damage.

The epoxy would probably let me get enough of a bite on it to pull it off.

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

I thought of the heat method but figured the steel bucket would expand faster than the aluminum in the head (maybe liquid nitrogen on the bucket to contract it?)

.

hmm i doubt it as youd be only heating up the valve stem its self and not the bucket.... i know this works on neons.. there ohc/aluminium headed... had no problems there.

 

[AREA 91]

What about 2 sets of neetle nose pliers on opposite sides of the bucket? YOu could remove the valve shim, and grab that little edge.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Hey... is liquid nitrogen a normal thing to have in a shop. LOL ? I'd keep an eye on that guy ^^

 

[93rev2sev]

Liquid nitogen maybe not, but the propellant in canned air will work just as well.