Help! Double Trouble SF Bolts

[Zap]

I'm in a very tight situation at the moment. I'm in the middle of replacing the clutch on the '95, and I need to find a quick and simple way to remove the nuts/bolts from the front of the subframe. I cannot seem to remember how I got the nut to stop spinning the last time I did this, and I figure that with some PB and some force I may be able to break the bolt or get it to spin the rest of the way (we're talking a few threads worth) out of the nut. The bolts both came out mostly, until they got stuck in about the same place. The rears are perfectly fine. All I have to say to the Ford Engineers/Recall folks: finger finger

You suck. These nuts are pieces of crap. It is obvious that they could fail badly just like the rear ones.

So anyhow, I need to get this situation resolved pronto. Any advice is appreciated!

Thanks
-Chris

 

[WakaShoMan]

Chris,

I recently did my front SFB's and I can at least provide some help for the driver's side.

On my '89, my nut started to spin after I had loosened the bolt about 5 or six turns or so. What was happening was that as I loosened the bolt, it was pushing the nut upwards... the nut then was pushed out of its retaining tabs and spun.

Try reaching up into the frame rail (where the nut is) and see if the retaining tabs are still there. I was able to reach in there from the fender side. If the tabs are there, then manipulate the nut back onto the tabs. Then... resume backing out the bolt, but ket the bolt "drop down" as you unscrew it so that the nut does not get "pushed up".

The front driver side nut is in a well protected area and should not have lots of rust (unlike the rears which may be fossilized).

Note that this same problem would have happened to me if the OEM nut had been the new "recall" style".

Now as for the passenger side, I do not know because I could not even see it. Check the forum for this. One guy said you gotta take off the front bumper for access. Somebody else said the A/C condenser has to come out.

And I agree... the whole SFB fastener situation sux BIG TIME. rant

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Just cut the bolts with a sawzall and buy two recall kits with new nuts, bolts & washers. Under $30 for both sides, and saves a **** of a lot of frustration.

Alternatively, you can try jamming a small prybar (or even a long 3/8" ratchet extension) through the hole in the subframe at the wheelwell to try to hold the nut in place while you turn out the bolt. You might end up needing to replace the nuts anyway because for reinstall the ears are probably broken off and the old nuts don't have a hex pattern on them to grab with a wrench where the new ones do.

 

[WakaShoMan]

Mr. Anonymous:
Just cut the bolts with a sawzall and buy two recall kits with new nuts, bolts & washers. Under $30 for both sides, and saves a **** of a lot of frustration.

You might end up needing to replace the nuts anyway because for reinstall the ears are probably broken off and the old nuts don't have a hex pattern on them to grab with a wrench where the new ones do.

DEFINITELY install the recall-style nuts because they have a hex head on them.

 

[Zap]

I already have two recall kits because I knew this could be a problem, and I'm also installing Al SFBs during the clutch job. Do places rent Sawzalls or what does it cost for one? I'd really like to get the flywheel in to be resurfaced asap.

 

[Bizzy]

homedepot might rent a sawzall you might want to call them. The bolts can be cut off with a dremel with the cutoff wheels too.

 

[ckinart]

I ended up cutting my front SFB bolts off with a torch, but that's not for everybody...

 

[SHO SPD]

I cut mine with a swazall, saved a lot of frustration!

 

[fordfreak]

SHO SPD man can you give me the specs on you paint job. It might just be the lighting in the photo but it looks darn good. (I know this is off topic sorry don't mean to hijak)