Heart Transplant (Engine Swap), have some ???'s

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Crazy Phreak

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Hey guys, I recently picked up a White 1990 SHO with a blown engine (oil pump went and the girl continued to drive it for around 25 miles, has a horrible knock). Well, I have an '89 SHO Engine with 117,000 on it that I wanna drop in. Already ordered all the gaskets,sensors, etc. for it that I need as it has an oil leak on the back Valve Cover. What I need to know:

1. Method of removing the Engine in the 90? (easiest way after hood is off)

2. Possible to take it out the top without unbolting the tranny mount and just keeping the tranny connected to the SF?

Now I plan on taking the flywheel and Clutch assembly off the 90 Engine as the one on the 89 has a bad PP and disc (It slips like a MOTHER...that and the 90 just had a fresh clutch assembly installed :thumb: ) . Anything I should know when reinstalling it on my engine? I also have plans on replacing the Rod Bearings...this engine has to last me a while :D .

P.S. I have owned the 89 for about a year...it met it's demise to two...yes TWO nearly 200 LB. deer :cry: . Just too much damage to the front end and core support to justify dumping more money into it. But I want it's heart to power the 90 as the engine ran like a ***** ape :D .


Any help is GREATLY appreciated as I have never tried pulling a FWD engine...especially one with this many electricl connections :ruhroh: , and I wanna get it right :thumb: .
 

Mr Anonymous

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IMO, for a first-time effort, I'd recommend dropping the whole shebang out the bottom. That's how I do it every time, but for a first-timer, I think it makes getting the motor and tranny mated up easier when you can walk around the motor 360 degrees. Also will make it easier if you break one or more exh. manifold to y-pipe studs.

In any case, it's basically a matter of disconnecting all the electrical connections between the engine harness and the chassis, the coolant hose connections to the radiator and heater core, clutch cable, speedo cable, the A/C lines, fuel lines, main vacuum line, evap line, etc. Drop the y-pipe, disconnect the shifter, undo the motor mount to subframe bolts, remove the oil pan to tranny bolts while under the car. Disconnect the roll dampers from the strut towers, disconnect the axles from the spindles and remove. If pulling out the top, you'll need to remove the starter and remove all the bellhousing bolts, as well as remove the intermediate shaft.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head at 1AM. Honestly, spend the $30 or so and buy a Helms manual on eBay, or find a friend with one. It doesn't have to be year-specific, 89-95 MTX SHOs are basically all the same when it comes to a motor swap.
 

v-tec killer

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Yes, engine and tranny will come out the top. Use loc tite on the pp bolts when reinstalling them, get a ceramic TOB. Will help the pp last longer.
 

Bryan C. King

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If you have the tools needed, engine hoist ect....The easiest way to take out your motor is, with the tranny, and out the top. Flywheel and clutch should bolt right up with no problems. I have done it several times with someone else in a few hours.
 

Mr Anonymous

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Crazy Phreak said:
... as well as remove the intermediate shaft.

This is accomplished..how? :confused:

Remove two bolts (13mm) that secure it to the block by the bearing, then pull it out of the tranny.
 

Mr Anonymous

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Bryan C. King said:
If you have the tools needed, engine hoist ect....The easiest way to take out your motor is, with the tranny, and out the top. Flywheel and clutch should bolt right up with no problems. I have done it several times with someone else in a few hours.

Yeah, but I can have it out in 90 minutes by myself taking it out the bottom! :p (strains arm patting self on back!)
 

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