I'm looking into getting a set of coilovers for my titanium '89 because i would love to have an adjustable stance. but it seems like not many people are using them so i was wondering what disadvantages this suspension set up will have?
Ground Control Coilovers
- Thread starter VRIBL
- Start date
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SinisterSHO
Rust free
If you only want them for an adjustable stance, your going to need to order some light springs.
SHOtime2511
CGP
check www.SHOsource.com there is a group buy going on for K-Sport coilovers.
thats not ALL i want them for, i want performance handling aswell, i just like the option of being able to change my height
SinisterSHO
Rust free
My car has 430/300 springs and its almost undriveable on the street.
almost.
almost.
pitaSHO
Why do I do this to myself?
If you are still planning on daily driving it I hope you have a good dental plan and a strong bladder...:laugh_ti:
Shoaz
Studly dood
That's strictly a function of spring rate. Since you can get just about any spring rate you want on coilovers, and change them out if you don't like them, one doesn't have to sacrifice ride quality if one doesn't want to.
That being said, a track setup will be much stiffer than a street setup. A "performance" setup that gets driven on the street will be a compromise, and one can pick that degree of compromise however one wishes.
A related concern is matching the valving in the struts with the springs, but there's quite a range to play in before one needs to get the struts/inserts revalved.
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ManySHOs
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As Eric said, it's a function of spring rate and length. I've been driving my sleeved coil over setup for ~ month now and I think its more compliant than the konis and eibachs that I removed. It's firm but it no longer crashes over bumps like it used to. If I hadn't already gone this route I would be jumping all over the K sport group buy.
Steve, I think you may benefit from some different springs
Ian
Steve, I think you may benefit from some different springs
Ian
SinisterSHO
Rust free
I know I need at least longer ones in the rear and I'm toying with getting 350s, but on the same note, I'm also starting to think if I should drop the front down to the 375-400 range also. I do know that I need to add some bump stops, though.
What length springs are you running front/rear?
ManySHOs
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8" 500 front, 10" 350 rear. This is what Gary recommended for his setup for street/occasional HPDE. With 235/45/17 crappy tires (i.e. softer sidewalls) it's not too bad. I won't lie; it is firm but its very tolerable.
My front sway bar is disconnected and I'm currently running a 21mm rear bar. I bought a 23mm bar that's still sitting in cardboard in the trunk.
(I'm also running bump stops.)
Keep in mind that I'm using SHOsource front plates and Gary Morrell's rear plates. Even with the same spring heights you probably won't achieve the same effect unless you're running dimensionally similar mounts. I'm also running Hyperco helper springs in the front to keep the main springs located in their perches under full droop. I greased the atriculating SHOsource mounts to eliminate some clunking but I also have some QA1 thrust roller bearings on hand to throw in when I get a chance. This should eliminate some binding issues that I'm having that the grease didn't cure. I'm also thinking of ordering a pair of these to mount between the helpers and the main springs. I don't think they are necessary on the rears because they don't turn and won't bind:
http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EIB SPACER
The beauty of coilovers is that you can also install tender springs to create a progressive rate setup. I prefer the linear rate feel but with some experimentation, one should be able to create a really comfortable street setup using different spring rates, heights and possibly some tender springs.
Ian
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SinisterSHO
Rust free
I am currently running the ingalls adjustable front mounts with the SHOSource articulating mounts. Rears are just stockers. I have also considered the helper springs, which is another thing I need to look into.
I have time though, since they're getting swapped over to the 92 now this winter.
I have time though, since they're getting swapped over to the 92 now this winter.
ManySHOs
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I would ditch those front mounts and get the SHOsource ones if you can. I don't really see much of an advantage running the articulating mounts with a stock style mount.
Ian
adidas_kn
LOWSHO
Ian, What grease did you use on the articulating mounts to stop that annoying binding? It's driving me up the wall. I wont even drive the car anymore till I figure out what to put on them. I'm about to do the G3 subframe swap soo that will be the prime time to grease em up. Can you PM me more info on the QA1 thrust roller bearings for the plates? BTW I have the Ground Control/Koni/SHOsource mount combo up front.
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I also have the Ground Control Coil over's pared with adjustable Koni insert's.
Make sure you get 10 inch rear spring lengths. In the early ground control kits, you only got 8 inch rear springs. These are NOT long enough. You will have the rear jacked up all the way just to get the car to sit level.
I had to seperately order 10 in rear's and bump stops. They should have come standard.
Make sure you get 10 inch rear spring lengths. In the early ground control kits, you only got 8 inch rear springs. These are NOT long enough. You will have the rear jacked up all the way just to get the car to sit level.
I had to seperately order 10 in rear's and bump stops. They should have come standard.
SuperSho92
Member
I am currently looking into a set of articulating mounts, but am on the fence based on the binding comments above...so any updates?
Do these mounts bind? If so, would I be better off with just updating the thrust bearing?
Do these mounts bind? If so, would I be better off with just updating the thrust bearing?
As the manufacturer, I would also like any feedback on the articulating spring mounts. I designed them with self lubricating plastic to keep things simple, but some people have had binding and some haven't. I don't know why some people have problems and some don't, but it seems that adding grease to the ball and socket seems to reduce the noises.
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
adidas_kn
LOWSHO
Mike can you suggest a grease I can put on these mounts to stop the horrible noises? I mean you can hear it pinging from far away if I drive through a parking lot or something. I paid allot of $$$$ and they make me not want to drive my car. Help me Mike!!!!
Synthetic caliper grease or dielectric grease would both be pretty safe with the plastic. I use synthetic bearing grease on the race car.
Email me if you rin into other problems or questions. Worst case, I can see about getting a bulk buy on 2.5" thrust bearings, but I would like to try the grease first since it will reduce the amount of working parts to maintain.
Thanks
Mike
Email me if you rin into other problems or questions. Worst case, I can see about getting a bulk buy on 2.5" thrust bearings, but I would like to try the grease first since it will reduce the amount of working parts to maintain.
Thanks
Mike
gmorrell
Never been a noob...
See if you can find some stuff from Slick 50 called One Grease. It's basically a decent synthetic chassis and wheel bearing grease that's loaded up with particulate Teflon. The Teflon makes it a good lubricant for low-speed sliding interfaces, and the grease keeps the Teflon where it belongs. I've used it for years in anti-roll bar bushings and where TPR bushings contact metal. It works great.
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