Getting ready to replace the halfshafts

[Danz13]

Im getting ready to replace my halfshafts with remanufactured ones from autozone and I had a couple questions. Will I need to replace the seals if they are not leaking, or should I do it just in case? When the removing the inner and outer parts from the spindle and inside the diff, the manual calls for special tools, could I just sort of hammer it off? Also any tips or pictures would be greatly appreciated

 

[jthod]

I would, it's kindof one of those While in Rome things. It's not too expensive, and not that hard to get in.

I watched the guy at the tranny shop replace mine, after he did a clutch, and replaced the axles. He didn't replace the seal the first time, and after a day, they started leaking. He didn't use and special tools, just yanked out and slid in. He put the seal in with a large socket, which works, but with the right tool it's much easier.

Replacing the halfshafts and leaving out the seal is like pulling an oil pan after 50k and not replacing the rod bearings.

 

[Eric VerValin]

yank out your old seal, flip it over, use that to tap the new one in. Just take your time, and it'll go easy.

Get a few prybars... can't remember which one was "perfect" about 18" or so, and learning the right place.

 

[Danz13]

Thanks guys, I did read the thread about using a 2" pvc coupler to help put it into place, ill get that just in case. Should I grease the new seal so that it goes on easier?

 

[Eric VerValin]

A little ATF wouldnt hurt. I'd be leery of putting grease into my tranny fluid.

 

[Danz13]

Sorry I meant **** instead of grease.

"Due to the automatic transaxle case configuration, the right halfshaft assembly must be removed first. Differential Rotator T81P-4026-A or equivalent, is then inserted into the transaxle to drive the left inboard CV-joint assembly from the transaxle. If only the left halfshaft assembly is to be removed for service, remove only the right halfshaft assembly from the transaxle. After removal, support it with a length of wire. Then, drive the left halfshaft assembly from the transaxle."

Is that tool necessary? When they say right, they mean the drivers side right? Also where do I get a new pinch bolt for the ball joint. Is Part Number: 3622S the right one for the seal?

 

[Eric VerValin]

They also said you needed that "tool" for the MTX's.. but you don't. Just remove one side at at a time, and you'll be ok.

And.. FWIW.. I got my axle seal's from Ford. They'll have the bolt too.

 

[Shoaz]

Replacing the halfshafts and leaving out the seal is like pulling an oil pan after 50k and not replacing the rod bearings.

FWIW, if the seals weren't leaking I wouldn't bother messing with them. I don't agree that you should change them regardless, since it is possible to create a leak that wasn't there by changing out non-leaking seals. Personally, they're not hard to get to or change, so I think a policy of just changing them when they start to leak is a good strategy.

Same thing for the rod bearings. There seems to be some hype around rod bearing failures on SHOs. I think poorly maintained SHOs or modified SHOs might be susceptible to rod bearing problems, but that's true of most engines. I've had oil pans off many times and not changed the rod bearings. I've not had a rod bearing failure yet, either.

 

[jthod]

Yep, that was a PITA. Fix it when it leaks, but I still think if you're far enough in there, for another $6, you can keep yourself from possiblly going right back in there.