SuperHO
Mental Patient
I'm just too tired to search around, but what's the best way to install this thing? And is it smart to run during a michigan winter?
gen II trans cooler
- Thread starter SuperHO
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Silvapain
New Member
I drilled holes into the underside of the metal bumper and bolted the cooler to that. Be warned, the bumper is kryptonite-like in it's power, and will destroy both your drill bits and your arms.
I run a remote tranny thermostat to prevent overcooling in the winter.
http://tinyurl.com/864h76
I run a remote tranny thermostat to prevent overcooling in the winter.
http://tinyurl.com/864h76
SHOMEX
SHO Member
To drill the metal bumper you will need cobalt drill bits (those will make your drilling easier) You can get them at sears. Do it slowly and take your time.
I just used a small bit and progressively went up to the size that is used for tapping a 1/4-20 thread.
FWIW I use to have a t-stat on the cooler line but this leads to overheating when pushed in hot weather. Currently run without any covering or reduction to the cooler. In 20-30F temps the ATX fluid will run around 90-110F depending on the driving conditions and length of time I've been driving.
FWIW I use to have a t-stat on the cooler line but this leads to overheating when pushed in hot weather. Currently run without any covering or reduction to the cooler. In 20-30F temps the ATX fluid will run around 90-110F depending on the driving conditions and length of time I've been driving.
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SuperHO
Mental Patient
is this something easier to tackle with the bumper cover removed? If so, what's the easiest way to do that? I'm still a gen III newbie...I'm still trying to figure out an easy way to get the intake back together and the couplers tight without a gap...
Yes it is easier.
The front bumper cover is very easy to remove.
Take out the headlights. Three 10 mm screws and loosen the tall 10mm lock down bolt.
Take out the large 15mm hex heads across the top.
There is an 8mm hex head that connects the bumper cover to the fender behind the headlights. May be a couple more too I can't remember.
Under the fender liner on both sides is a stud with an 11 mm nut. Loosen the front fender liner and you can get in there with a deep socket.
Be careful when pulling this out so the stud does not scratch the fender. Also be careful with the headlights as on the bottom is a sharp piece of SS that will scratch the bumper cover. Carefully pull up on them so they don't drag across the bumper cover.
Leave the plastic cover on that's under the radiator but take the three 10 mm hex head bolts out.
Start pulling the cover off and disconnect the turn signal harness from the lens. There are tow alignment studs on the top towards the headlights. Lift up on the top, out at the fenders where the stud is and then the whole thing comes off as one piece, spolier, plastic panel and cover.
Takes about 15 minutes after you do it a couple of times.
The front bumper cover is very easy to remove.
Take out the headlights. Three 10 mm screws and loosen the tall 10mm lock down bolt.
Take out the large 15mm hex heads across the top.
There is an 8mm hex head that connects the bumper cover to the fender behind the headlights. May be a couple more too I can't remember.
Under the fender liner on both sides is a stud with an 11 mm nut. Loosen the front fender liner and you can get in there with a deep socket.
Be careful when pulling this out so the stud does not scratch the fender. Also be careful with the headlights as on the bottom is a sharp piece of SS that will scratch the bumper cover. Carefully pull up on them so they don't drag across the bumper cover.
Leave the plastic cover on that's under the radiator but take the three 10 mm hex head bolts out.
Start pulling the cover off and disconnect the turn signal harness from the lens. There are tow alignment studs on the top towards the headlights. Lift up on the top, out at the fenders where the stud is and then the whole thing comes off as one piece, spolier, plastic panel and cover.
Takes about 15 minutes after you do it a couple of times.
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