FuelPump Return Line Gasket?

[jimb]

89 SHO FuelPump Return Line Gasket?

Hi,

I hope you folks think of this as an emergency.

I just removed my fuel pump. The return line has an orange gasket/gromet on it thats torn, about 180deg. It's held on with a green spring-loaded hose clamp. Is it critical to get it replaced? This is holding me up from installing the assembly and mounting the tank. It appears to be for ensuring back pressure as the end of it is flat, like it serves as some kind of restrictor.

I have the new pump, hose, clamps, and filter mounted. Waiting on info about this orange return line "thingy".

Thanks a ton in advance,

JimB

 

[jimb]

I installed the new pump and remounted the tank with that unknown thing split. Put fuel in the tank and car still has same old problem. Turns over fine, will fire(sometimes), runs for a few seconds, then engine stops running.

Very close to selling or junking this thing now.

 

[NoSlo]

duck bill in gas tank

The orange thingy just keeps fuel in the fuel return line and prevents vapor in the line after you turn the car off. I don't think it would cause too many bad effects except the line gurgling bubbles if you restart your car after it's hot.

If you get a fuel pressure gauge you can test and eliminate no fuel as a potential cause. Hook up the gauge to the valve on the top of the engine fuel rail, and short the the fuel pump pin on the EEC-IV diagnostics connector in the engine compartment (search for instructions..) you should get about 40psi. You should also get the same pressure if you turn the key to the on position. After you disconnect power, the pressure should stay up for several minutes. If you get the car started, the fuel pressure will drop to about 32psi at idle because of the vacuum controlled fuel pressure regulator.

I used my gauge to correctly diagnose my roommate's no start problems - he was out of gas!

 

[NoSlo]

Are you still troubleshooting this issue?:

>>While idling in my yard engine stalled, rumble, white smoke or vapor. Then would not restart.

Check your timing belt?

 

[jimb]

Hi,
I can't say I'm trouble-shooting as I don't have fuel pressure gauges, hand held scanner, timing gun or compression tester. Have a fluke 77bn, various tuarus/sho manuals.

The timing belt was replaced about 40,000ish/m prior to this happening. I've always had spark so figured the timing belt was okay as well as the camshaft sensor.

Fuel pressure: prior to replacing the f/p after an engine start attempt I'd press in on the fuel rail valve and fuel would dribble out, maybe about a 3-4" low pressure "fountain". Now that the new pump is installed the fuel blasts out high enough to hit the hood blanket.

I put 5gl of gas in and the driveways level.

Am thinking of just buying a new waterpump and crankshaft sensor and blindly replacing them. Money and physical ability I barely have anymore for "backyard mechanicing".

Have replaced the irc a several years ago for an a/c problem.

Has new p/s pump, steering rack, steering hose, a/c hose, on it's 3rd clutch and 2nd fly wheel, and some other things replaced.

Original are the cam and crankshaft sensor, dis, eec, waterpump

JimB

 

[DHMag]

ok, you have fuel. there are many "shadetree" ways to test for spark. one of them is putting a plug wire against the block and having someone crank the engine. if you see the arc, you have spark.

my bet is you have a bad crank sensor.

 

[jimb]

Hi,

I had checked spark for all plugs that way and had a good arc on all. As there is spark, does that rule out the camshaft sensor? Also, having good spark, this should mean the timing belt isn't broken-correct??

See this old thread of mine:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=30801

I went for this fuel pump replacement out of desperation.

So you see, I had no warnings from the engine that this was going to happen. No check engine light, no rough idles, accelerations and so on.

Only thing I had was the oil in the plug wells when this first occured, I got the kit to correct the oil in the plug well problem, replaced the plugs and wires at the same time. I have checked, and re-checked many-many times over proper plug wire order, made sure I had re-connected lines, hoses, and electrical plugs, mating flanges(valve cover, upper intake manifold) are properly seated, gaskets not protruding, nothing like lines or harnesses pinched in the flanges. MAF is plugged in.

I've been trying to read as many posts here at the forums as I can to get a specific idea on what component is causing this.

My fluid levels are ok, oil coolant, etc.

JimB.

 

[NoSlo]

Check for broken timing belt

You can check for a broken timing belt by taking off the oil fill cap and looking at the cams - have an assistant crank the engine and if the cams don't turn - broken! The way your car died instantly with a puff of smoke and has never ran again leans me to thinking this is the problem.

 

[jimb]

Thought I'd continue on this thread instead of starting a new one. I've decided to replace the ignition coil. I called advance and autozone. One quotes a $65ish price and the other $79ish. I think I must've used the wrong terminology when I spoke to them, as I'm looking on-line at autopartsgiant and some other sites and they show prices of $122 to almost $300. Wish the heck they had pictures for me to look at so I'd know I was seeing prices for what I'm looking for.

Could you all straighten me out on this please. I'm looking for prices on the ignition coil pack(the thing that all the spark plug wires plug into, not the dis).

Got any suggestions for a site with best prices? Just a stock replacement. Don't intend on ever hopping this thing up.

Thank you,

JimB

Whoops: Forgot to say that I checked, and the timing belt isn't broken. JimB