Front Sway Bar

[djfergi]

Does the front sho shop sway bar from GEN 1 & GEN 2 SHOs fit on a GEN 3? I want to upgrade my suspension after I weld my cams. I want to go all out. If anyone knows any info on sway bars, any help will be apprecaited. Thanks in advance

Later

 

[NIGHT_RIDER]

Check out this link for front strut tower brace

 

[SHOZ123]

The 24 mm bar from a Gen 1 will work. I had to put split collars on the outsides of the bushings to keep it from sliding back and forth though.

 

[stephen newberg]

Is not the OEM FSB for the Gen III already about 26mm? I forget the size for sure, but it is a good deal larger than the stock RSB was. Of some interest, I managed to break my FSB in a stiff curve the other day. New one on order, but I did not check the size, just ordered whatever came as the standard.

pax, smn

 

[SHOZ123]

The OEM FSB on the Gen 3 is 22mm. Rear is 19mm.

 

[stephen newberg]

Hmm. Yup, that is what the spec says. For some reason it seemed to me my front one looked fatter than my rear 23mm replacement (which I actually measured before it went in). Just for fun, I will keep the old FSB and measure it when they pull it to replace it tomorrow. I have noticed before that how big something 'looks' is often wrong when you get around to actually measuring.

pax, smn

 

[SHOZ123]

I used new OEM 22mm bushings on my 24mm bar. There is a considerable gap where the bushing does not go completely around the bigger bar.

 

[stephen newberg]

When it was on the lift this morning I put the old fsb that had just been removed up against the 23mm RSB I am using, and you are completely correct, they are the same thickness. New FSB now installed. The old one had cracked at the passenger side mount. Looks like it happened in two events. A longer split section going toward the bar itself seems to have gone first, from the rust appearance, while the short section just across the bolt hole away from the bar is the one that went a couple of weeks ago.

Has anyone else ever broke one of these?

pax, smn

 

[snake396]

SHOZ123:
The 24 mm bar from a Gen 1 will work. I had to put split collars on the outsides of the bushings to keep it from sliding back and forth though.

What all has to be done to swap a 24mm bar into the front? i have always been under the impression that they were not compatible. i know it involves loosening the subframe and lowering it a bit, need new bushings and endlinks (why wouldn't you?) the reason i ask is because i should be coming into possesion of a 24mm FSB and a 26mm RSB from a '91 on wednesday. officially i'm buying them for my mom's '94, but if it is doable, my dad may let me put them in the '97. i already have a 23mm RSB from a '93 on it. and it made a huge difference, though there is almost always room for improvement. thanks.

-Ian

 

[CTOESHO]

I have a 24mm front sway bar off of a Gen I that is up for grabs. Anyone interested can email me at [email protected] Thanks.

 

[stevetatro]

Seems the stock 22mm FSB and a 26mm RSB from a Gen1 is the way to go. It seems pretty balanced to me, as I just drove a '96 with this setup the other day.

It isn't tail-happy at all. I don't know why anyone would want to make the front end push anymore than it already wants to (being so front-heavy). Unless you have the 29mm RSB from SHO Shop or something, I wouldn't bother with th 24mm FSB.

 

[SHODWN]

Fred I have them in stock for you

 

[wild01ride]

Gettin' the FSB on!

OK, I've been trying to figure out the best way to attack this project. It looks to me like you have to drop the subframe quite a bit to get to the bolts on the swaybar bushings. Is this possible to do without any repercussions on everything connected to the engine?

Can anyone give some insight into this? Thanks a bunch!

 

[Mr. SHO]

Seems the stock 22mm FSB and a 26mm RSB from a Gen1 is the way to go. It seems pretty balanced to me, as I just drove a '96 with this setup the other day.

It isn't tail-happy at all. I don't know why anyone would want to make the front end push anymore than it already wants to (being so front-heavy). Unless you have the 29mm RSB from SHO Shop or something, I wouldn't bother with th 24mm FSB.

You obviously didn't push the car too hard. It's hard to feel the oversteer in normal driving. However, if you do an evasive maneuver at high speed, you'll feel the tail-whip. It's much more noticeable in snow or ice. Some people like a little oversteer, and there's nothing wrong with that. However, that doesn't mean it's not there.

I have a 25mm rear bar and 24mm front, and my car doesn't plow at all. For the record, the Gen3 is no more front-heavy than a Gen2 ATX. The V8 engine is lighter than the V6 (aluminum vs. iron).

It looks to me like you have to drop the subframe quite a bit to get to the bolts on the swaybar bushings. Is this possible to do without any repercussions on everything connected to the engine?

I think I dropped the rear of the subframe about 6". You don't need to disconnect anything. Just loosen up the front subframe bolts first so you don't bend or break them. Some people detach the exhaust flexpipe, but you don't need to (good thing too, 'cus those bolts are always frozen on pretty tight.) All in all, the FSB install isn't too hard. It just takes a while to wrench those bracket bolts loose, since you can't get too much movement on the wrench. My ratchet wrench was too wide and interfered with the bracket. I think I wound up using a socket and wobble extension.