Front Strut Removal

[Funmart6]

I searched but didn't find what I needed, so I'm askin'.
Does anyone have instructions about how to remove the front struts? The driver's side has been squeaking at times and I figure it is the strut bearing. Looks like the bearing assembly is pretty cheap also, like $20.00 or so.
Thanks.

 

[baySHO_510]

You have to remove:

*the pinch bolt that holds the bottom of the strut to the top part of the spindle... you're gonna have to tap/hammer the spindle to loosen it from the strut.
*Sway bar endlinks... they're attached to the strut.
*Then you'll have to remove the 3 nuts on top of the strut mount (under the hood) and it should just drop down.

I would recommend you get the car realigned because when you move the top of the strut mount around it messes with the camber of the front tires.... the tie-rods adjusts the toe. I dont think I missed anything, although this is just off the top of my head from the last time I did my struts.

 

[Silvapain]

With the gen 3 the top strut plate is spot-welded to the body. You can't change the alignment by removing and replacing the strut.

 

[nothingtoseehere]

Unless you're lowered and drilled out those spot welds

 

[stephen newberg]

Unless you're lowered and drilled out those spot welds

Or even just drilled them out and not bothered with the lowered part.

pax, smn

 

[Funmart6]

Thanks, it looks like this is a good weekend project.

 

[baySHO_510]

Should really take a few hours... I think the most time consuming part will be compressing the springs if you're using a hand coil compressor. Make sure you mark down a few reference points so everything lines back up.

 

[SHOZ123]

If you don't want to over stretch the ball joint then lower the subframe on the side you are working on.

Support the car at the floor rails. Then place a jack under the subframe on the side you are working on. Then take out the subframe bolts and thread them back in three complete turns. Then lower the jack so it is just barely supporting the subframe. With a quick kick on the knuckle the strut will pop out easily.

**** every thing up first of course.

 

[Funmart6]

Is there a diagram of a strut showing the location of the bearing? That is all I am replacing, does the spring need to be compressed for this?

 

[SHOZ123]

For the wheel bearing the spring can stay on the strut and the strut can actually stay in the car. For the strut bearing the spring needs to come off.

 

[Funmart6]

oh well, I don't have a spring compressor, (wanting to replace strut bearing), so until I can get one, then I will have to live with the squeak. Or..... I guess I could get the guys in the automotive class at school to look into fixing it, only cost is the part, plus saves me the headache.

 

[Ian Macoomb]

I've done my struts twice and I found that I couldn't compress the springs enough to get the strut mounts back on the strut. So I ended up taking it to a shop to assemble. The second time I just took the whole strut and had the shop disassemble and reassemble them.

 

[Silvapain]

You can rent spring compressors from Autozone.

 

[SHOZ123]

I've never had any luck doing the springs either. Have both a clam shell and the hook compressors. Like Ian I could not get them compressed enough. The shop I take them to charge $20 a strut.

Now when I put on the Eibachs on the rear I could get the OEM spring off, one was broke. But not the fronts.

 

[baySHO_510]

I guess I'm lucky, I have 2 sets of spring compressors & electric impact gun. Makes it way easier to compress/de-compress the springs. You have to place the spring compressor tool in a way that will allow the most "compressing" of the spring. Its does get a little frustrating but its possible.