F- -k!!! Almost stripped valve cover bolt...Now what?

[93redATX]

It's the rear side one right by the EGR valve...it's not completely stripped, but it's close. Any more turning on it and it'll be toast. Am I gonna have to drill this thing out, or is there anything easier? Everything was going pretty good on the rear bank too...*********...also, where to get a new one? Bone yard? Auto parts store (seems unlikely)? Anybody that has an extra one laying around that can overnight one to me?

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-Andy

'93 Red/Black ATX
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-Coneless
-Red interior lights
-Fog light mod
-Pioneer DEH-1100 45x4 MOSFET Head Unit
-SHO lettering painted black
-SHO banner on windshield, SHOforum.com sticker on back window, bottom center
-Gen IV Taurus emblem on trunk

My Website: http://taurusshosite.8m.com/main.html

AIM:Juggalo53048

EDIT: After re-reading this I made it sound like the thread is stripped--it isn't. It's the head of the bolt, the hex part.Is there any possible way to get this thing out somewhat easily?

[This message has been edited by 93redATX (edited 12-04-2001).]

 

[ChitownA34DR]

if and when it get stripped. Put a larger driver in it and hammer it in lightly till its snug. Then tighten again. Had to do this for the front valve cover on two of the bolts. Not really to big of a deal.

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~Dan

FOR SALE First $4500 takes her home!
93' ATX
Mods: Dynomax Cat-back, Coneless, 17" Enkie RS6's w/225/50/17 Nitto NT-450's, New trans w/trans-go

96' Impala SS
Mods: Borla exhaust, K&N Fuel Injection Kit
Home of the Super Sedans!

 

[LIZARDKING]

Chase the threads on both the head and bolt first. May be able to save them.

 

[Rob94]

Bone yard probably won't part a single bolt....I'd think either the dealer or SHO-Nut Performance


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Rob
White 94MTX
K&N Filter otherwise stock

 

[AutoXSHO]

FYI they are $20 apiece.


John V

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95 MTX with mods.

 

[sdpatt]

Easy, it is not a catastrophe. It is usually the threads in the head that strip first. The bolt is much harder and will shear (break), but not strip. As said before, you may be able to use a tap on the threads to save them, but after having done this myself, I think you may be better off with an M6 Heli-Coil (or equivalent) re-threading kit. They are simple to use to provide a permanent repair to the threads. You just use the recomended drill size to drill out the existing threads then use the provided tap to cut new, larger diameter threads. You then use the installation tool to screw in the steel coil of replacement threads to create the original M6 size threaded hole.

I got way too much practice on my rear bank head. Now remember, you only have to torque the valve cover bolts 9-11 lb-ft. You can exceed that with one finger on the wrench. Are you using a torque wrench? If not, save yourself the future pains and get one. Lesson for the day: Set the torque wrench twice, torque once.

If you do happen to break a bolt, check with the SHO places such as Performance Plus and SHO Nut. Performance Plus was kind enough to send me a single, used bolt at no charge. I guess it was for having spent some good money there.

Scott

[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 12-04-2001).]

 

[luigisho]

Once again sdpatt is on the money. Unfortunately I had a similar experience. If you need a new(used) bolt post on the various lists and contact sho nut Nick and Josh really saved my but. The dealer only sells them in packs of 8 if I remember right $160. Heli-coil for the threads almost like new. If you want to extract the bolt and have something you'll need in the future get a set of Craftsman bolt extractor drill bits. They work better than anything else I've tried. I think they're like $30 but you'll need them again, trust me. Good luck

[This message has been edited by luigisho (edited 12-04-2001).]

 

[TwiceSHOwn]

You need a new bolt? I have tons what do you need?

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********
93 Silver ATX 57K
LPM
80MM MAF
Y Pipe
Eibach + Tokikos
Front and Rear STBs
Cold air snorkel
TCE SHO stopper brakes
Recovering from its 60K...sigh

 

[93redATX]

TwiceSHOwn-
As you're looking at the engine, it is the right side back screw type bolt...the one the EGR valve is right in the way of. I can't think of a better way to describe it...ummm...it's the small one. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about but I can't get it out (been up since 9 P.M. yesterday).

 

[TwiceSHOwn]

Is that what you need though a new bolt?

 

[SHOfear]

This probably isn't recomended, but when I stripped a bolt on the front valve cover, I used a propane torch to heat the thing up, then whacked it with a hammer. The head broke off the bolt, and I could lift the cover off. The bolt was still stuck in the head of the car, but with the valve cover off it was real easy to remove. You could try using EZ-out and a carbide drill bit to drill through the bolt, then using the ez out remove the bolt. This way there is no damage to the head, and not need for a helicoil. Just my .02


Steve

 

[93redATX]

TwiceSHOwn-
Yeah, just that new bolt. That was the only one that I ran into a problem with, actually.

 

[munkee]

Hey 93, I was just looking at the edit portion of your original message and was curious. Will the bolt come out without hurting the threads or breaking if you could get it to turn? If so, try taking it off with a pair of vise grips and put a good one back in. Unless the threads are messed up and thats whats screwing it up.

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"It's not just the speed, it's how well you handle it."