Error Codes 19, 33 (1989 SHO)

[llapage]

Every once and a while my 89 SHO will cut out. It feels like the ignition switch has been turned off and on very quickly. The other day it started bucking on the freeway, it sounded like a compression brake on a semi-truck, and it was gutless. It lasted about 15 seconds. Now it runs great again. I got error codes 19 and 33. Any ideas? It's got 95,000 miles on it but got the 60,000 mile maintenance deal. If's it the PCM how much do they cost? Any help would be appreciated.

<small>[ April 06, 2003, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: llapage ]</small>

 

[SilverSHO]

19 = CID circuit failed = bad camshaft sensor. This is mounted on the front end of the engine, on the end of the rear intake cam. Looks like a round black cap sticking out from the head with a plug on the side.

33 = EGR valve opening not detected.

The cam sensor code is stored in the EEC's memory to be output when codes are retrieved. It doesn't mean that the sensor is having problems during code retrieval, but that the sensor faulted sometime earlier under normal operating conditions, and EEC made a note of it. Anyway, you probably need a new one...check www.shonutperformance.com or www.fordpartsnetwork.com. I think they're fairly inexpensive, and easy to replace...at least, easier than a water pump. As for the EGR, I'm clueless; haven't got one on my SHO.

 

[AutoSHO]

Try cleaning the plug on the CID. Does the car ever suffer from extended crank times? If not, then look to the EGR for your answer. It may be plugged, or it may be having some other problem. I do not have much expertise with the EGR.

 

[SHOTerror]

The EGR will not cause these kind of issues, and is pretty common to get this code as they fail or clog over time. Afterall, only Cali SHOs have them as they are a requirement to pass e-test.

 

[projectSHO89]

Replace your CID sensor. About $30 at AutoZone for a Wells F134. That should fix the bucking/hesitation/code 19.

Only California MTX cars have EGR. All ATX cars have it. The 33 is due to the failure of the computer to sense EGR flow when it has commanded the EGR valve to open.

Here's a quick test to see where to focus troubleshooting: Locate a length of vacuum hose. Unplug the hose from the EGR valve and plug your test hose on. Start engine and run at idle. Pull a vacuum on the test hose (pretend it's a thick milkshake). The engine should drop RPMS, maybe even stall. If it does, the problem is in the control and sensing portion of the EGR system such as the EVR (Electronic Vacuum Regulator), the PFE (Pressure Feedback EGR) sensor, the sensor sample hose or tube, or the PCM. The sensor and the sample hose are the most likely culprits of these.

If there was no change, either the EGR valve is bad (not very likely) or the intake ports on the intake manifold are plugged (most likely). Instructions for cleaning them are around here, also in the FAQs at www.shotimes.com Look for "332" troubleshooting as that is the equivilent code for the 2nd Gen ATXs which usually see this problem.

To learn more about Ford EGR systems, see the tech article here: http://www.smpcorp.com/download/view/tt2q00.pdf

Welcome to the Forum!

Congratulations on running your codes first!

Steve

 

[sdpatt]

Excellent analysis, projectSHO89. Bravo.

 

[rangerj]

LLAPAGE,

To add to what has been said above. In order to test the CID (Cylinder Identification) sensor do the following;

Connect an LED (light emitting diod) test light (NOT AN INCANDESCENT LIGHT) between the CID signal wire at the sensor connection (Dark Green) and the negative battery terminal.

An easy way to "back probe" the connection is to tape a long straight pin (hat pin or sewing needle) to your test light. Ease the "probe" into the back of the connection to touch the metal connection (of the DG wire in this case).

The method used by mechanics to "back probe", that is to puncture the wire with the probe, opens the wire up to corrosion. The pin does no damage and allows you to get the test done.

When the engine is cranked the test light should blink. If not, the sensor is bad, or the connection or wire has a fault.

Before you are done with your diagnostic testing, clear all the codes. Then do the KOEO, and KOER tests again. The code 19 could also mean that the PCM (Power Control Module) aka EEC or Electronic Engine Control, or "The Computer", has internal voltage failure.

So, if you do the KOEO test, after all codes have been cleared, and get a code 19, it could be due to a failure of the internal voltage in the computer.

If you do not get the code 19 before cranking the engine, but get the code 19 after the engine has been cranked, then the CID sensor is the prime suspect. rangerj

 

[llapage]

Thanks everyone, this is a great forum! I'll try the CID route first since it's fairly inexpensive. The Ford dealer quoted me several thousand dollars to replace the computer (if they could even find one) and suggested that I dump my car. If it turns out to be the computer and not the CID, can I even get one and how much do they cost? Thanks again for all of the replies, you guys are great! I love my SHO.

 

[projectSHO89]

These computers rarely die. You can easily get ones from a junkyard or from another SHO owner who is parting out a car for not too many bucks.

Skip the Ford dealer next time. They do not have an interest in keeping an older car on the road, so they probably don't really care if you keep the car or not.

Don't worry about the computer at this point as you have other identified problems that need attention first.

Steve