engine wants to die under load

[Black-taurus]

Background: I have had this 90 sho for about a year now. the car always bogged from about 800-3000 rpm i was never able to figure out what it was from i tried replacing everything spark plugs wires everything. i could never get it to not bog. anyway the car also at times when you started it would immediately go to 600 rpms and jump between 600-700 rpms rapidly. you could sit there and watch it for a while. then when you hit the throttle once it would go away.

The current problem. going to my parents house last night while i was entering the freeway I felt a jolt like the engine wanted to die. i thought it was weird. It happened a few more times. a random jolt or 2, almost like the car wanted to die. then it got worse and i saw the check engine light flash when it did it. it went away again. leaving i didn't notice the problem. it definately had something to do with the load on the car whenever i clutched it the engine would save itself. I went out for a ride later that night too get gass i got a full tank and tried to leave this time the problem wouldn't go away. maybe the car was heavyier? i tried to leave the gas station my foot had to stay on the clutch to keep it alive then i tried to shift too second big mistake. the car violently shoock between 4000-5000rpms i was thinking maybe if i could get it too a certain speed it would even offf and stop jumping. then the engine completely shut down. i hope you guys have some ideas. i know the first thing will be check the codes. i've never been able to make the koer work it always sends the code did not receive goose test. the koeo test return 1 1 good but had 1 4 stored. i don't know what to do the problem was pretty random any speed. but now the thing won't start i crank and crank and it won't start.i tried flooring the gas in case it was flooded but it still wouldn't start. any ideas please, thank you!!

 

[Black-taurus]

I pulled a spark plug off the front bank and checked for spark. I did have spark. does this mean the DIS is OK and the coil pack and all that stuff.I'm thinking fuel pump. but i don't know how those normally go out. it wasn't sputtering. it just would go with a load. i gave it a full tank of gas does that affect a problem with the fuel pump. any ideas please guys!!

 

[SHO--ripper]

How many miles?

 

[Black-taurus]

i think I figured out what the problem is underpowered computer . Pretty much exactly what that guy details is what happened to me only i didn't run over a bump when it quit for good The car was jumping from wanting to die then it just quit. The only problem is this guy said it was due to bad connection caused by aftermarket cheap battery cable ends and mine are original. After tightening the battery cables too tight i noticed i broke the oe end (i did this a while ago) and said ill replace them later. that worked for about half a year. do you guys know if I can find cheap aftermarket battery cables that work? i know ford obsoleted them a while back and nobody has them. (they were apparently $220 too) I tried replacing the positive with a cheap end but it still didn't work i am going to try the negative one tomarrow. also when i turn the key i can't hear the fuel pump like i normally can??? is the fuel pump coming off the negative cable? just like the guy said though when i turn the key to on the ABS light is brighter than the check engine so i know i have the same problem??

 

[projectSHO89]

There is a single black wire that come off the negative battery that mounts to the shock tower via a connector. This is your PCM ground. It has often been the culprit for computer problems, especially when you have a dim CEL.

Steve

 

[Black-taurus]

Ok i replaced both of the battery ends with the cheap ones you bolt onto the wire with 2 bolts. The exact same thing still happens. I turn the key and no noise for the fuel pump and there is a dim C.E. light and no start. What else could this be please help guys thanks

 

[Redline]

Could be your CID (cam position sensor). I had bad bucking problems and problems with stalling when mine went bad. I also had trouble starting and a dead tach at times. Mine only did it when the engine was hot, but it could be that yours has died more completely than mine had. At any rate, the part was only like $30 at Schucks and fixed all my problems.

 

[Black-taurus]

Did it cause a dim check engine light redline? i know my CID has never been changed and leaks from that seal. I don't know why the fuel pump wouldn't pump because of that problem?

 

[Black-taurus]

Ok i just tried replacing the camshaft position sensor and it still won't start. I am very confused. I have never had a no start issue with this car :cry: :cry: The thing thats confusing me is how similar this is to underpowered computer. The car died out for a second then it was ok. It did this several times then it wouldn't even go anywhere without jumping all over the place. then it just died. I can't hear the fuel pump. How would I go about testing the computer further? where is the computer? i really need some help with this

 

[Black-taurus]

I just read that if when you crank you still see the Check engine light it means your not getting a message from the crank position sensor? does this sound right? I just replaced my CPS 6 or seven months ago and i replaced the water pump. How could the crank shaft sensore fail so soon. what else could that mean? when i crank the engine the check engine light stays on.

 

[Redline]

Hm, to bad the CID replacement didn't fix it. Have you tried clearing the codes and checking them again?

 

[Slo-Sho]

when i crank the engine the check engine light stays on.

The PCM is not recieving the PIP signal. Recheck the DIS module grounds and associated CPS wiring.

 

[Black-taurus]

You mean check the 2 connectors going to the DIS itself? or where they come from? are the grounds the black wires? What is a PIP signal? what is a good way to check the grounds? does this eliminate a problem with the ircm? i can see the tach moving when I crank.