Electric waterpump ordered :)

[djacks222]

Hey all. It's me again. I have decided to order this tonight
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66235b


I sat there looking at my motor over the last few days as it idled and I kept looking in the area where the battery is at and still didn't like the look of my water pump being driven by my camshaft.

Those poor boys are stressed out just lugging away but turning my water pump. Weird design if you think of it. The camshaft is not nearly as strong as the crankshaft. And the camshaft that moves the waterpump with a giant pulley thingy is the only camshaft with something on that end of the motor.


In theory this should delay valve lash adjustment. Preserve the camshafts. Regain some of the DEtuned go and tor questions. As in the pics of the concept version the camshaft sure does not move the waterpump.....

 

[sperold]

You see those units on Quarter mile cars where the driver wants to cool the car while it is sitting between runs. They probably run the fans remotely as well.

 

[Nuke]

Want pics of conversion when done.

 

[98SF19]

Soooo uhhhh . . . did you get this installed djacks?

 

[luigisho]

His last post was a year ago. Not sure if he's still on the forum

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

Forget that guy. He doesn't own a SHO anymore.

He totally destructed his motor and scraped the car long time ago (spring 2016). During his (heavy) upgrades, one of the cams slip even if they were welded and he tryed to change the cam and retime the motor. I send him lot of infos and made many searches for him (in exchange of some spare parts) and when he saw that his repairs weren't fonctionning, he gave up, speaking about scrapping the car and never return here or to my messages (and I never saw the said parts too).

(Japanese assembly does'nt equal rapid backyard repairs...)

Now, I'm a little reluctant with people that are too much motivated here... It's motivate me to help owners with realistic objectives now.

 

[stephen newberg]

Very sensible.

pax, smn

 

[98SF19]

It motivates me to help owners with realistic objectives

Hear hear!
I remember back in the early 2000s there was a flood of new Gen 3 owners that would ask all sorts of questions about making it into a red light bandit. These days, I think most are fine with just tweaking things here and there but not going over the top. For me, I was happy to get a lower ball joint loose last night, even if it took an hour of banging on lower control arm with a BFH. LOL

Ok . . . as for electric water pump, anybody up for it?

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

These days, I think most are fine with just tweaking things here and there but not going over the top. For me, I was happy to get a lower ball joint loose last night, even if it took an hour of banging on lower control arm with a BFH. LOL

I'm presently making searches to create an IMRC switch with 2 possibilities to install it :
"auto" (stock)/close or
"auto" (stock)/open.
Mustangs guys have found some interesting infos on this (that can be reused differently). The goal with this is to save some fuel, not performance, maybe some better torque at low rpm...

For the ball joint, the only trick I know to dissamble them is to take a zip gun with a fork end and give it a lot. You have 90% chance to scrap the ball joint boot... Have a spare or two before beginning this.

Good luck,

 

[stephen newberg]

? I do not think the IMRC really does much for fuel consumption. The best way to effect that, in truth, is with your right foot. Simpler and a lot less effort and likely cost.

pax, smn

 

[98SF19]

Re: IMRC, I've heard both trains of thought - that IMRC does in fact optimize F/A ratio down low, OR that it really only served to create the sound of secondaries opening. Whatever the case may be, I've kept mine in garage just in case I ever get lower intake clean and catch can setup installed, as it's pointless to run it without these conditions. Of course, removing secondaries altogether is likely the wise choice of action.

Re: ball joints, I think I've found the best solution for ball joints that don't want to come off: The Harbor Freight jaw clamp. $14. I also bought a pickle fork but as the first one worked very well, I might just take it back. The good thing with the jaw clamp is that, with the right prep (gently wedging rubber boot up and away from control arm), you can actually save the ball joint. There's a great video on YouTube where a guy tests it out, the main take-aways being to **** the bolt before using the device, and also not to try to pop ball joint loose with the device alone, but to crank the bolt down a bit (+/- 30 ft-lbs), and if THAT isn't enough to pop it loose, whack the control arm right next to ball joint. This was the answer for me. Came off with 2nd hit (wd40 played a role as well no doubt).

Getting hub bearings free of knuckle (after removed from strut) was a different story. Basically just set knuckle on floor with lug bolts down, sit down with strut pinch bore toward you and a put hooked end of a pry bar into it, resting other end against right side of your torso. Start breaker bar with handle pointing left and pull it toward you. Just like the sway bar links and spindle nuts, it took some torque to get them off, not just loose. I noticed some blue stain on bolts after removal, but surely the blue Loctite would have required much more than hand tools could provide. I think these were original bearings and considering how stiff they were, I expect to get at least 1 or 2 mpg with new ones.

 

[gamefanatic]

If the ECU detects that the IMRC is not opened, or you fool it into not thinking it's open, then it won't add fuel accordingly. I'd have to check my TweeCer functions to see how it should react. Of course it could also react differently on different models. I have two '96 SHO's, one with a California computer, and one that is not...

 

[GEN 3 SHO FAN]

If the ECU detects that the IMRC is not opened, or you fool it into not thinking it's open, then it won't add fuel accordingly. I'd have to check my TweeCer functions to see how it should react. Of course it could also react differently on different models. I have two '96 SHO's, one with a California computer, and one that is not...

In fact, it's the goal. If the ECU knows that they are closed, it will ship less gas. Mustang guys were able to trigger their computer to think the IMRC are closed at low RPM and open at higher RPMs with an existing relay, not bad. But what interesting me is their studies on how the IMRC operate, not their trick. The manner on how it's works, if I understand correctly, we will be able to open/close the IMRC when we want but letting know to computer what is going on. I think it can be usefull to have this switch for long highway run, closing half of the intake valves (8) can be a great eco mode. (Some today cars/trucks close off half of their pistons...)

I already know that I just have to replace the IMRC to do that but I hate 1-2 sec. of delay when I need them. The goal is to have, like any today cars, a sport mode, an eco mode and/or an auto mode. (My choice will be Auto mode and a sport always open mode.)

P.S. Talking about efficient waterpump, Rockauto was selling high efficiency waterpump for the 3.0 Vulcain SLO (belt moved), I bought one thinking it was great because it is poor on this motor too (but Vulcain is cast iron). After comparison, seems exactly the same as the old... (but 3X the normal price)