Diary of a clutch change

[kevinspann]

1992, 118k, and who knows if this is the original clutch. The y-pipe has been off the car, but the clutch has a Ford logo on it. The trans also had a quill sleeve on it. I read somewhere that that was not factory until 93, but I have no idea how correct that is.

Car is getting a new clutch, some reinforcement of the motor mounts, gen 3 brakes, and a gen 3 subframe all in one shot.

The beginning of the end

Trans out

Clutch! The outside edges of it on both sides were worn down quite a bit. Fingers on PP worn about halfway through I would say. TOB was junk. Still turned, but was beyond "dry"

PP

FW

Album: http://s73.photobucket.com/albums/i204/kevinspann/Blue 1992 SHO clutch/

I didn't notice any loctite on the PP or FW bolts, but it was still there on the trans and starter bolts. And that damn rock shield, and other wire holder tray thing were both still in place, so either this is the original clutch, or someone put EVERYTHING back like it should have been. I guess it could have also been an early warranty replacement? Not sure.



Also, is this a rear main seal leak, carrier gasket, or oil pan?

Thanks.

 

[Gez89SHO]

The clutch may have very well been original. I'm seeing the Ford part number on it: F1DB.....F1 means 91, or a part that was intro'ed in 91. Def. a Ford clutch.
Looks like a leak at the oil pan seal. I wouldn't chance it , IMO- once you're in that deep, I would do the rear main, carrier and oil pan. Wouldn't want a leak after doing all the work on the clutch.

 

[Bob Gervais]

+1 on rear main/carrier and oil pan gaskets. May as well do rod bearings while you've got the pan off too.

 

[Racer X]

Clutch cable. That end looks old and rusty. If it's not ready to snap, it's definitely stretched.

 

[SinisterSHO]

put some shoes on you hippie

 

[intimdatr]

+2 on doing it all its a lot less work now than later.

 

[itwonder]

+3 Your rear main seal is leaking. Might as well change the carrier gasket while you are at it.

Ford stamps are common on replacement clutch parts, so it's tough to say whether it's original or not. It's unlikely because the original TOB's seldom lasted more than 60K miles or so.

 

[RonPorter]

+3 Your rear main seal is leaking. Might as well change the carrier gasket while you are at it.

Ford stamps are common on replacement clutch parts, so it's tough to say whether it's original or not. It's unlikely because the original TOB's seldom lasted more than 60K miles or so.

Not true. MANY have gone far longer!!

Being a '92, it already had the beefier clutch, so it wouldn't have been a TSB clutch.

I wouldn't be at all surprised if it wasn't the original clutch. Not that unusual.

 

[kevinspann]

So, I'm completely quit updating this.

As usual, I dive into a project and do 10 different things and don't finish any.

Gen 3 subframe build/swap along with the clutch change. Seems like not a big deal, right?

FN74s with calipers - go to put the m on the car, and have two passenger side calipers, get another caliper, realize slider pins are frozen on both brackets - crap.

Had the wrong ABS sensors - gen 4 sensors have a slightly different plug of them, so I had to get gen 3 sensors and put those in.

Finally get it all back together and put the wheels on, and snap off a lug stud. FFS.
First replacement lug stud wouldn't go in, had to cut it in half to get it out. Second stud snapped in half before it pulled into the hub. Disassemble suspension, pull out hub, bearing sounds dry anyways - replace.

Ugh.


The machine shop resurfaced the flywheel, except they broke off the dowel pins...really?

So I wanted them to fix it, assuming that they would remove the old ones, and put in the right ones. No, they just drilled into the old ones and put smaller ones in, that weren't even straight. Yay, more ********.

I have the engine out of my other 92, and that clutch assy. only has about 4-5k on it, so that one went in the car.


Got the clutch in, trans in, etc. - clutch felt wrong, without the car running yet. Considered pulling it back out, but didn't. pedal travel seemed wrong/too short.



Reinforced the motor mounts, oddly, no issues there.


Oh, it sprung a leak in the power steering cooler, or where lines where they connect to the cooler, for no reason.



Finally got the car back on the ground and moving under it's own power last night.


The clutch disengages high in the pedal travel, just like the old clutch did. Adjusting the clutch like you're supposed to doesn't do anything. The quadrant works like it's supposed to.

The thought is that the original cable might be stretched out...plausible? Clutch disengages fine.


TL,DR - things never go right for me

 

[Slo-Sho]

It's supposed to do that, makes it so you can shift really fast. Seriously though, the 1st thing I would check is how much do you have to move the clutch fork lever to be able to slide the end of the cable on? Does it seem like a lot?