couple of problems at the track...

[DavidT]

I posted the times in the Boulevard Battles.
I got a new K&N cone air filter... only about 4 inches long. A previous owner cut a hole in the metal for cooler air to enter from the fenderwell. With the car sitting still, the filter has about a half inch clearance from the top of the hole. After 3 runs, I parked the sho and opened the hood. The filter was lying in the fenderwell I hope no damaging debris entered in.

How much engine movement should be expected at the track (10 psi)?

Anyone have a p/n for the ROUND K&N filter?

Problem #2:
Last time at the track, I had the cable shifter. I had a REAL hard time finding 3rd, if I could even find it at all. This time, with the rod shifter, it was better, but I STILL had to force the shifter real hard to get it to go in. Is this a symptom of an internal problem with the 3rd gear? 1st to 2nd was much easier

 

[SHO92]

The part number for the K&N should be on the lip of the filter where it connects to the tubing.

If you have to force the shifter really hard into third, it sounds like you have weak synchros. How is it driving on the street?

 

[DavidT]

as for the filter, I never had the round style, only the cone. The one I am inquiring about is the one you see on most setups.

Driving on the street is not nearly as bad. I just changed the tranny fluid to the synchrmesh stuff about a week ago, too.

 

[Yamaha V6]

David, with Kirk's reinforced mounts (I used to use Josh T's mounts, and liked those as well), solid torque limiters, I have ZERO engine movement on the dyno at WOT.

With the torque we generate, you NEED to be able to plant it. However, if you still have an open diff in that car, if you start planting to one wheel, you're going to either bust a shaft or launch the pin pretty quick if you lock down the driveline.