Correct part no. for ATX serpentine belt

[Daedalus]

I noticed some wear on my serpentine belt last time I was under the hood of my ATX SHO. I went and picked up a belt from a local auto parts store, but after I got it home I decided to double check the part number. I think the guy may have sold me a belt for a non-SHO Taurus. Does anyone know if these part numbers are correct?

Gates # K060849
Dayco # 5060850
Goodyear # 4060850

It looks like my alternator pully has a small dent that may have accelerated the wear. How hard is it to change that pully?

Thanks!
- Dan

 

[projectSHO89]

Yeah, all of those are for the non-SHO 3.0L.

Gates K060445 is for the SHO.

Haven't had to pull an alternator pulley....

Steve

 

[Daedalus]

Thanks! I swapped it out for a Gates K060854, which looks like the correct belt.

 

[TYSHO]

It looks like my alternator pully has a small dent that may have accelerated the wear. How hard is it to change that pully?

Much easier with an impact, otherwise you will need a strap wrench to hold the pulley in place. Besides that, you just need to remove the battery to get at it.

 

[TYSHO]

Yeah, all of those are for the non-SHO 3.0L.

Gates K060445 is for the SHO.

That's for the 6-rib a/c-alternator belt on the 3.0 SHO motor, his is a 3.2 with one long belt.

 

[Daedalus]

Any ideas where to get a new alternator pulley? The local auto parts store doesn't have them, and the big Ford dealer doesn't either.

 

[TYSHO]

Post it in the Want To Buy section, someone might have one from a parts car.

 

[Daedalus]

I took the pully off with an impact gun and strap wrench, and it's pretty messed up. It has a BIG dent on one side, and on the back (facing the alternator) half of the innermost ring of the pully is worn shiny. My best guess is that the alternator was dropped onto the pulley before it was installed.

So now I'm probably going to just replace the whole alternator. Cheapest one I've found so far is from NAPA (~$160); the next cheapest place was ~$250 (rebuilt by Worldwide is what the guy told me). Does anyone have suggestions?

Thanks a ton!

 

[hawkeye18]

Odds are pretty good that if the alternator had been working (supplying a charge) up to that point, it'll still be fine after being dropped. The alternator is not what you'd call a sensitive piece of electronics. The rectifier is solid-state and the only things you really have to worry about in there are the solder connections for the diodes and from the windings to the rectifier. You would know real quick-like if either of those broke, and they're fairly 'beefy', to boot.

I am hesitant to change alternators, though; my first one worked for a year before it broke, and I haven't had one work for longer than two months since! You can also just go to a junkyard and pull a pulley (or the whole alternator, it's easier) from any ATX SHO. Make sure it's an ATX!

Of course, if the shaft got bent as well as the pulley, it's TOAST. I would not recommend Autozone; DuraLast parts last about as long as it takes to throw them in the dumpster. I've had good results with AAP/Kragen/Schucks(or however that's spelled), but I've found that even really old OEM alternators last much longer than remaned parts store alternators.... but that's just my... ok, like 8 cents.

 

[SHORANGERBIRD]

-Motorcraft part # is jk6-856-aa......