clutches and flywheels

[rktmn]

I am in the process of replacing my clutch and flywheel.

I have a Fidanza flywheel but the steel liner is damaged and needs to be replaced. Is the steel liner available and is it user replaceable? Has anyone done it themselves, or must the flywheel be sent in to the istrubutor?

Any recommendations for a clutch?

I do not beat up my SHO, but I do like to goose it ever once in a while.

I dynoed my SHO at 218 hp at the wheels.

I am considering returning to a stock flywheel.

Chime in with your preferences.

Jose

 

[LOUDSHO92]

You should be able to get an insert from Fidanza.

As far as being able to replace it you will find out when you try. Heat and screws don't mix so you may strip out some threads.

I would suggest a SouthBend Stage 1: SHO Source

 

[Phoenix]

Insert = buy at ultrarev (grab the insert part number first at fidanza website)

For the clutch , the CM1 is a step foward against the stocker

 

[sperold]

I would use the steel flywheel and a standard clutch. I have changed lots of clutches, and without fail, it is the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers that are at fault, and caused the failure. I have yet to actually wear a disc out. I don't like changing clutches, and I fear that anything you do to beef up the clutch bite, will simply **** the throw out bearing and clutch fingers sooner. I have the ceramic TOB now, hoping to extend the life a bit more, but I don't have enough history to know if that works.

 

[Lorenr]

I think you are right

Sperold,

You sound like you have some experience. The last time I removed a Ford disc and pressure plate, I was amazed at the ware on the pressure plate diaphragm. The Fingers were pretty well worn. Everything else was in good shape. I think rebuilding that very pressure plate would have provided a lasting unit. Steel flywheels in this application are just a smarter move.

The week link appears to be the throughout bearing. I've never really thought much of diaphragm clutches either. Long and Borg & Beck styles were just much better. Unfortunately they won't work here.

 

[rktmn]

This last clutch problem seemed to be the steel sleeve. It was loose on the shaft, and would not allow the throw out bearing to back out all the way. The clutch must have been slipping throughout it's lifetime of 7,000 miles. It burned the flywheel steel insert.

What a PITA.

Jose

 

[AREA 91]

This last clutch problem seemed to be the steel sleeve. It was loose on the shaft, and would not allow the throw out bearing to back out all the way. The clutch must have been slipping throughout it's lifetime of 7,000 miles. It burned the flywheel steel insert.

What a PITA.

Jose

Make sure that you use green loctite on the quill sleve this time.

 

[jon93]

This last clutch problem seemed to be the steel sleeve. It was loose on the shaft, and would not allow the throw out bearing to back out all the way. The clutch must have been slipping throughout it's lifetime of 7,000 miles. It burned the flywheel steel insert.

What a PITA.

Jose

Green loctite the new tob sleeve.

As for a clutch, the Clutchmasters stage 1 is basically an overpriced stock unit. The clutchmasters stage 3 has good reviews and is not difficult to drive in a daily. I have no experience with SPEC clutches but they are either hit or miss. Some quality control issues were apparent with a run of clutches a couple years ago. Clutchnet dot com has a lot of options. I've heard good reveiws about South Bend clutches, and they're available from shosource.

 

[Phoenix]

Green loctite the new tob sleeve.

As for a clutch, the Clutchmasters stage 1 is basically an overpriced stock unit. The clutchmasters stage 3 has good reviews and is not difficult to drive in a daily. I have no experience with SPEC clutches but they are either hit or miss. Some quality control issues were apparent with a run of clutches a couple years ago. Clutchnet dot com has a lot of options. I've heard good reveiws about South Bend clutches, and they're available from shosource.

The straps are like 2 times thicker on the CM1. I donno if the CM1 has more grabbing power though.

 

[jon93]

The straps are like 2 times thicker on the CM1. I donno if the CM1 has more grabbing power though.

Yes, you're correct. The straps are thicker but it still comes with an organic (stock) disc. I personally do not think it's worth the extra money ($150-200) for a painted pressure plate and some thicker straps... Everyone has their own opinions and their own bank account.