Clutch explosion!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Bizzy]

masho95:

Bizzy:
Some have noted some drivetrain chatter at times when using it, myself included, but I believe is related more to the practice of trying to "feather" the pedal when engaging the clutch. It's best to not do that and will engage quite smoothly otherwise.

Yeah are you talking about the 9-puck/aluminum FW setup or stock FW? If you're talking about the aluminum FW setup what is your suggestion about getting the clutch to engage smoothly? More of a clutch dump then feathering? Thanks

Edit: Sorry Bizzy for the IMG tags, you're probably right that was a making me a little dizzy

I have a stock flywheel and the 9 puck fibertuff disk. When I feather the clutch it tends to chatter just a bit. I don't suggest clutch dumping by any means, there is a very fine line between feathering the pedal and letting it out smooth and easy. Each car has a different personality clutch wise so it's best to experiment a bit to find the sweet spot of engagement for your car.

<small>[ January 17, 2004, 10:23 AM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[masho95]

Even letting the clutch out smooth and easy in 1st gear will usually result in nasty clutch chatter. I've talked with both Mark N. and Josh T. about the problem. Josh suggested excessive driveline lash, such as motor/tranny mounts or even something internal in the tranny. I wonder if my idle netural gear rattle is a result of excessive gear lash and causing both the neutral rattle and the clutch chatter. Mark also suggested that the 9 puck and SS 8-lb FW combo might have something to do with it, as another guy out in Eastern MA was having the same problem with the setup. I have new Extreme motor mounts to put in and I'll see if that improves anything, but I'm going to have to see if my mechanic at my work can install the mounts for me as I'm out on workman's comp. and can't do much with a torn tendon in my wrist. Sucks having all this time off and not being able to do anything with the car. frown

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

SHO_Driver:
Made in China. shrug
Wow.

Since recieving my own new, valeo stock clutch and finding "made in china" stamped on it, i have done some research.

It seems that valeo now has a manufacturing facility in china.

cheep labor wins again.

woohoo squint

 

[91taurisho]

NotSoSlowSHO:

SHO_Driver:
Made in China. shrug
Wow.

Since recieving my own new, valeo stock clutch and finding "made in china" stamped on it, i have done some research.

It seems that valeo now has a manufacturing facility in china.

cheep labor wins again.

woohoo squint

Cheap labor squint

 

[Bizzy]

NotSoSlowSHO:
cheep labor wins again.

And with cheap labor comes mass production....and more room for errors to be made in assembly. squint

 

[Doug Waschenko]

If you are looking for feedback (I presume that's what this is about) I offer you my input.
What caused this failure is the lack of clamping power of the pressure plate (the clutch cover).
From what I have seen all clutches for the SHO are built off of the Ford/Valeo components.
More clamping force is added by changing to heavier springs in the pressure plate.
I have to think that the most likely scenario that caused this was a very high rpm (7,000 to 8,000) clutch dump. (I don't believe anything else could do this).
It looks very typical of it. I have done a lot of clutches (100+/-).
The clutch is the weak link to the SHO in stock form. Forget about modified cars.
More specifically it isn't the disc that's the problem, it's the clutch cover. The clutch cover bounced when you "released" the pedal.
The disc was clamped on one side and not on the other and the disc crinkled and threw the lining.
The guys with the supercharged cars can give you more hints but if the stock Ford clutch won't handle the car then you are driving it too hard or you are making to much power.
A puck disc can help because it lets the disc flex more without breaking the lining but it only helps a little more. You still are on very borrowed time if you insist on dumping the clutch. It just won't handle it.
Don't shoot me about this if you don't like this answer, just trying to help with my input.

 

[91taurisho]

Doug Waschenko:
Don't shoot me about this if you don't like this answer, just trying to help with my input.

I agree with you, to an extent... I was at a high rpm but I did not dump the clutch. I had not even shifted yet and when I put the clutch in and took it out of first, it was not going into second... I pushed the clutch in a little further and it went in but felt really bad. I thank you for your input and I don't get bothered by people suggesting things.
Scott

 

[MyFirstSHO]

"I had not even shifted yet and when I put the clutch in and took it out of first, it was not going into second... I pushed the clutch in a little further and it went in but felt really bad."

Why wasn't the clutch pushed in all the way the first time? shrug

 

[91taurisho]

MyFirstSHO:
Why wasn't the clutch pushed in all the way the first time? shrug

It was pushed in almost all the way, about a 1/2 inch or so away from the floor. It did not fully disengage until I pushed it a 1/4 inch or so from the floor(once it broke)...