Check Engine Light w/ code

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Mans442

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Hey all-

I had an incident yesterday morning that I thought I would post. The responses will determine whether I take the car on a long trip this week.

The car began a cycling/surging idle at a stoplight. The CE light came on, so I pulled over to inspect the motor. The idle still was surging, between 700-1400 RPMs. I got back in and began to drive. It was bucking hard in 1st and 2nd, so I gave it WOT throttle in 3rd and it cleared the problem. The CE went out, and then came back on a few seconds later. I shut down the motor and then immediately began to restart it, it had some serious difficulty getting restarted. Once I did, I turned around and headed for my home. The CE light was again on. I pulled into my driveway, shut it down and attempted to restart. Again, there was difficulty in getting it restarted. I didn't have time to play with it, so I jumped in my other car and headed for work.

When I got home, the car fired up and drove normal. This morning, I brought it to Autozone to scan the code: 133, which relates to the PCM response from the O2 signal.

Based on some engine searches on this site, I would narrow it down to CID, IAB, or crank sensor. The CPS was replaced about 1200 miles ago, with various mounting headaches.

I passed this info along to a few people, and all feel it is one of the above. Not sure what to fix, but I thought I should run it by all of you.

Thanks
 

Mr Anonymous

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Definitely double-check that code. Off the cuff I would also suspect the IAB as well, and disagree about it not causing the hard starting -- if it's sticking closed, the motor will have a hard time getting the air required for combustion during start.
 

SolidState

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a dirty IAC will cause lengthened cranking times.

the IAC is easy to clean, its just getting it of the is the PITA.

Does it backfire when trying to start?
 

Mans442

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Thanks for the responses. It was only a one time thing---the car is starting and driving normal now (which makes me nervous). Hopefully it will stay that way. I will clean the IAB and probably replace the CID sensor in the near future.
 

Mans442

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Well, the problem reoccurred this morning, and sustained itself for a longer period of time. I was cruising along the highway, felt the car begin to buck and surge, so I turned around and headed home again. I drive most of the way in 2nd gear because the bucking was very rough at lower RPMs.

Idle again was cycling between 500-900 RPMs. I turned off the motor and when I attempted to restart it, there was a bit of backfiring. Once I got it started, it sounded like the car was running on two cylinders. I shut it down again and restarted it, and it fired up normal.

I am going to borrow a real code scanner tonight to see if I can pick up addition info. I am also gonna order a Cam sensor.

Thanks
 

sdpatt

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You don't need a code scanner. Just install a jumper between the SELF TEST INPUT and the SIGNAL RETURN terminals of the EEC TEST plug on the firewall above the power steering pump. Go here for the test instrucitons and the code descriptions. From your descriptions though, you are at least going to find the CID (cam) sensor error.
 

Mans442

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Scott & Steve-

Thanks for the link. I will give it a try, but I admit I am a bit confused at first glance. I assume the test light will flash the codes, but how will a voltmeter register the signals?
 

SolidState

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the same way the light does....when you place the leads across the terminals on the EEC, a pulse will occur when the EEC signals the CEL, thus a movement in the voltmeter.
 

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