Changing Front Swaybar Endlinks

[blacklabel]

Ok. I went to change my endlinks(finally) and I couldn't get the old ones off. I believe they are the sealed units. The boots are all torn and when I tried to take the nut off, it the bolt would just spin with the nut. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I got a set of greasable endlinks to go on so there a different style. I just tried to get the bolt on the top of the one still on there off and it would keep spinning. What would you suggest I do for the bottem one because there isn't a lot of room there? When I finally get the endlink off, what do I torque the new one down to if there is a certain spec? Will I need a wrench for the lower bolt?

They have needed changing for the longest time.

Thanks.

 

[290]

If you notice there is a smaller hex on the end of the bolt before the threads. you have to fit a wrench over the nut then another one over the bolt and use that to break the nut free. its not an easy job so take your time to not strip the hex on the bolt. Use plenty of oil on it and if you get to a point you cant loosen it anymore go back to tightening it half a turn then go back to loosening it. Or if you know someone with a torch and some skills you can have it cut off.

 

[noSHO4u]

Take a look at the end of the bolt/stud that is spinning with the nut. If the end is round and there is a hole that resembles an hexagon at the tip, you will need to stick an allen key in there to keep the bolt from spinning when you try and turn the nut. Add a piece of pipe or a long socket or something so you can use it to keep the allen key from turning when you try and turn the socket. I bracing it against the strut worked for me.
If there is no hole, then the end of the bolt should have flat spots on it that you can fit a socket on (8mm if i recall correctly). Use a deep socket if you have one available, then attach the wrench to it and brace the wrench against the strut.
You could also try using locking plyers to keep the bolt from spinning if the above dont work.
If all else fails, and since you are tossing them any way, you could just use a dremel and start cutting away at the nut. Once you get enough cuts into it, it should be weak enough to just fall apart when you try and turn it.

When I changed mine just recently, I had one of each type on my car. The top nut on both sides was a pain and a half. The bottom nut on both sides came out with no problem at all.

The new ones I got from autozone actually have accomodations for using two big 18mm wrenches, so install and removal is much easier because you dont need to fiddle with itty bitty tools. Take a look at them here:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=66964

 

[noSHO4u]

Oh yeah, I almost forgot. To take off the bottom nuts, I found it easiest to disconnect both endlinks at the top first and pop them out of the strut. Then you can push/pull down on the sway bar so that it will end up just below the subframe. With it down there you can access the bottom end of the endlink much easier.

Install the new ones in reverse order. Install the endlinks starting at the swaybar and tighten everything up, then push/pull the swaybar back into position and connect the top half last.

 

[blacklabel]

I have to try what you guys said. I will try again possibly tomorrow. If worst comes to worst, out comes the dremel. That is a good idea about getting the bottem of the endlink easier to access.

nosho4u, those are the same endlinks I bought. Do you grease them while they are off or when they are on?

Thanks

 

[CerberuS]

If yours are plastic , good hammer to break everything , gives you place to put vise grip on the other metal end. to unbolt.

 

[blacklabel]

If yours are plastic , good hammer to break everything , gives you place to put vise grip on the other metal end. to unbolt.

There metal. The gen 2s had the plastic ones I believe. That would be fun to break them with a hammer.

 

[SHOZ123]

Get a sawzall out.

 

[noSHO4u]

nosho4u, those are the same endlinks I bought. Do you grease them while they are off or when they are on?

This maybe a little late in responding, but here goes anyway. I didn't grease them because they came pre-greased already. Peel back the rubber boot on there and you can see a wax like substance in there. I believe that is silicone grease.

 

[blacklabel]

Well I just finished them earlier today and then I saw your post. I greased them when I had them off. O well. All I have to say is that it took forever. It took at least 6 hours to do. 3 of the 4 hex ends on the bolts were stripped before I even started so I had to get the dremel out. That was working go but then the bottem ones gave me trouble. So, we rented a sawzall and cut the bottem parts off and managed to get the bolts out. On the good side, I noticed a big difference when going around a circular ramp on the freeway. Before the car had some oversteer, but now it feels so much better.

Thanks for all the help.