Car won’t read codes...

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KyngofPop

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Anyone have any clues as to why I can’t get the engine light to read off codes? It blinked the other day so I decided to try and read them the traditional paper clip method but it’s not doing anything. When I turn on the ignition and insert paper clip noting happens. I parked the car yesterday and came to crank it today and it just turns over....ugh.


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SHOdded

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If the battery is good, check grounds. After that, pull connector off the pcm, may be a burnt pin or dirt/corrosion. Could an aftermarket chip have been added? Any signs of pinched wiring at the intake? Hope the pcm is not dead. You can likely source a used pcm or have it repaired at http://circuitboardmedics.com

Fuel pump priming?

Since the car was out of your hands for some if the work done to it, all variables are in play.
 

KyngofPop

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If the battery is good, check grounds. After that, pull connector off the pcm, may be a burnt pin or dirt/corrosion. Could an aftermarket chip have been added? Any signs of pinched wiring at the intake? Hope the pcm is not dead. You can likely source a used pcm or have it repaired at http://circuitboardmedics.com

Fuel pump priming?

Since the car was out of your hands for some if the work done to it, all variables are in play.

Yeah, since it was gone and in someone else’s hands I’m at a loss as to where to look but I’ve been doing this a long time and this issue is completely new to me.

I’m not hearing the fuel pump prime which is suspect to me (already ordered one to change since the cars old for my own piece of mind). What’s weird is that that ****-fuse that I replaced the other day was the PCM fuse and it popped again the other day when I went over a bump. Replaced it and went on...but now it won’t start.

Could it be an issue with a ground that’s shorting out the pcm or the CCRM? I’m willing to replace those two but don’t want it to keep happening because XJ2’s and ‘D’ CCRM’s are becoming hard to find. Oy vey
 

luigisho

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If you are not going to tune it, then any of the mtx pcm's will do. Hit up Dan Barbush (SV&HOdan on the forum) and see if he has any laying around. he sells used stuff for a fair price. Sounds like pcm or wiring. Not my favorite to chase but getting more common these days.
 

SHOdded

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Definitely sounds like a wiring problem, but since the pcm is not popping codes, it might actually the pcm. Hard to say which one. I would say check all the wiring to/from the PCM for shorts. And the grounding of the DIS/intake. That is an everpopular nuisance where DIS is concerned. Could be cracked DIS connectors, but that should not pop the PCM fuse, AFAIK.

We have had one or two cases of fuses dislodging in Ecoboosts after going over bad bumps, but not blown fuses. Reseating was a sufficient fix.

A voltage problem from a bad regulator would be pretty obvious, once you get the engine running.

Just thinking out loud. No substitute for a DVOM tho.
 

KyngofPop

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Nah, I’m down for all suggestions and directions to look. I didn’t intend to spend my vacation from work this way but it’s all good...it’s a car lol. Just kind of tired because my BMW went in the shop AGAIN two weeks ago and I’m kinda tired or car issues.

Here’s a bit of history, Had the heater core changed by a dumb hack about 4 yrs ago and as soon as I got it back the ECM and the CCRM had to be changed because as soon as I crank it up it blew both of them out instantly...INSTANTLY! But since then it’s been fine because I’m a delicate driver. Idk how the other driver drove.

My GUESS is there’s a wire pinched somewhere that keeps blowing the PCM fuse when the car is driven hard or over bumps. Do I have to remove the dash to chase this down? If so I’m just gna crush the car because I’ve had it with cars with issues. I’m at my wits end...kinda sorta.
 
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sperold

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If you use an OBD1 code reader, do you get any readout?

Don't want to insult anyone, but are you doing the paper-clip procedure properly?

I remember early posts where that second small connector was missing from the harness, which could mean the little connector may be failing where it enters the harness.
 

KyngofPop

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If you use an OBD1 code reader, do you get any readout?

Don't want to insult anyone, but are you doing the paper-clip procedure properly?

I remember early posts where that second small connector was missing from the harness, which could mean the little connector may be failing where it enters the harness.

No insult taken but yeah I’m doing it properly, been the same method for years and the small connector is there.

It’s just that this is the first time it’s never given me anything back. Even a bad PCM would read something right? It strikes me as odd that it’s coupled with the no start issue.


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rubydist

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no, a bad pcm may not do anything, depending on what parts of the pcm have failed.

I would double check all fuses, as suggested above, to make sure the pcm has power. I would also double check engine grounds, since a lot of no-start conditions are due to improper grounding of the engine. Remember that the block and the intake both need good grounds to the chassis.

After that, unfortunately it is a matter of starting to trace wiring. I have seen several cases of random shorts and opens in the engine wiring harnesses of these cars, so there is a fair chance that is what is going on. The pcm being bad is also a real possibility.
 

FastCAD

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Anyone have any clues as to why I can’t get the engine light to read off codes? It blinked the other day so I decided to try and read them the traditional paper clip method but it’s not doing anything. When I turn on the ignition and insert paper clip noting happens. I parked the car yesterday and came to crank it today and it just turns over....ugh.


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Sounds like your pcm is not communicating with the ccrm.
The first clue is the fp not priming due to a fault in the pcm.
Check the small black ground from the pcm harness that grounds to the 'A' frame just behind the driver side headlight.
Check the 'ground wires' in the extreme upper left corner of the firewall just under the pass. side hood hinge.
BWD makes a quality pcm 'M' code for the 1st gen. @ Advance Auto.

best of luck,
Joe
 

KyngofPop

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Sounds like your pcm is not communicating with the ccrm.
The first clue is the fp not priming due to a fault in the pcm.
Check the small black ground from the pcm harness that grounds to the 'A' frame just behind the driver side headlight.
Check the 'ground wires' in the extreme upper left corner of the firewall just under the pass. side hood hinge.
BWD makes a quality pcm 'M' code for the 1st gen. @ Advance Auto.

best of luck,
Joe
Thank you so much! This makes absolute sense after talking to the guy that did some of the work on the car and this also gives me a direction to take things when I get under there. Thanks a bunch and I’ll be keeping you guys updated
 

KyngofPop

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Ok checked all the grounds and they appear to be in good shape. Did a little poking around and it appears that the CCRM is communicating with the computer.

When I turn the ignition on the CCRM makes a clicking noise but the fuel pump doesn’t prime. The fuel pump has been changed 2x before by the po many years ago and it made the infamous gurgling sound for about two years before I stopped driving it coupled with the fuel gauge ceasing to read so I’m gna change it when the part gets shipped to see what we get.

Once I’m able to rule that out we’ll go from there.
 

rubydist

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I have seen multiple ccrm where the relay contact points get so dirty that even though the coil pulls in the contacts, they do not conduct electricity. That sounds like what you may have going on. I would look for a known good ccrm and swap that in.
 

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