Car almost killed me today- Power Steering Failure

[Laser411]

I have always been a Chevy fan, specifically the Camaro, and for some reason always ended up with Fords....

This may be the last Ford purchase I make, not that I'm ditching the car, but it may cease to be my daily driver.

 

[SM105K]

Mine isn't. It is my street sleeper. You point it straight and steady as she goes.

My ST is actually more fun to drive. Turn off traction control, and literally you have no idea where you are going when you drop the clutch and that tuned little Ecobeast starts eating.

 

[Laser411]

I had an SVT focus that was similar. The thing had 220k miles when I decided to donate her. She still ran but definitely needed some sensors and an overhaul. Parts for the transmission were hard to get too.

 

[SM105K]

I had an SVT focus that was similar. The thing had 220k miles when I decided to donate her. She still ran but definitely needed some sensors and an overhaul. Parts for the transmission were hard to get too.

I really liked those car when they came out. My Focus is pretty cool, except the awesome strut bearing design.......Grrr

I will be replacing them this weekend. I am sick of my front end sounding like it is about to fall off.

 

[Laser411]

Circling back to this, how hard is it to remove/replace the steering rack and are there any special tools needed?

 

[SM105K]

Circling back to this, how hard is it to remove/replace the steering rack and are there any special tools needed?

I personally don't know, I haven't replaced one.

 

[SHOdded]

You can check out this thread and post your q's there:
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,9659
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,9881

 

[Laser411]

I guess before anything, I should pop under and check wiring. Is there a way to determine the exact malfunction through forscan and if so, what should I be looking for? I know the freeze frame has the steering angle listed on it, so the angle sensor seems to be ok.

 

[Laser411]

I just slapped a new battery and either the reset from the battery disconnect or the new battery resolved my interior key detection issue. With that being said, is there a special reset reset procedure for the power steering module? I reset the PSCM through forscan yesterday with no change.

Also, I pulled the codes that remained immediately after the reset:
PSCM U3000:49-48
PSCM U3000:96-C8
PSCM U0415:00-48

Before the reset (plus the same codes from above):
C-CM U0418
ABS U0420
RCM U2300
RCM U0140
PSCM U0415

B0050 for the seatbelt
C1001 for the backup camera
U3003 for the dead battery

I will reset them in the morning, drive to work and back, and post the codes stored from that ~hour 1/2 of driving.

 

[SHOdded]

Connect IDS and check for DTCs in the PSCM.
- If none of the following D'FCs are present, reprogram the PSCM. Proceed to "Module Reprogramming" on page 2.
• C1BOO-62
• C200B-2F
• C200B-61
• C200B-62
• C200C-2F
• C200D-49
• U0300-00
• U2011-49
• U2011-61
• U3000-46
• U3000-49
• U3000-61
• U3000-72
• U3000-96
• P07AE-09
- If any of the above codes are present, replace the steering gear.
For additional information, refer to WSM Section 211-00.

NOTE: Reprogramming of the PSCM is not required if the steering gear is replaced.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2014/RCRIT-14V286-2955.pdf

 

[Laser411]

Sounds like troubleshooting from the outside is over and I surely need a new rack.....unless I can change the gear without dropping the rack?

 

[Laser411]

Well, the SHO was supposed to go to my dealership in 5 hours but I'm pretty sure my PTU just went out. When it rains, it pours.

 

[Laser411]

So the jury is out on whether it's PTU failure or not but here's what happened. I was slowing down to exit the highway doing about 80 when the maintenance light came on (without telling me why) at the end of the off ramp(1/16th of a mile later. I stop at the light, try to go and all of a sudden the car clunked and the power was no longer going to the wheels but somewhere else. The engine was straining and the torque was going somewhere but i had a top speed of 2mph, it felt like someone was holding the brakes. When i put it in reverse it clunked and i put it back into drive and the car started going again until I hit 7-8mph and it locked up on me again.

Anyone experience similar?

 

[SM105K]

No. Have you turned the car off set it sit for a minute and then drive to start driving again?

 

[Laser411]

Yes, for like 3-4 minutes. It was better but still ended up locking up my wheels once i hit 5ish mph. Then it was jerking when going into reverse and into drive when the tow truck showed up an hour later but i couldn't tell if that was a gear popping loose/out of place in the PTU or not. I couldn't see the PTU to see if the case was split open or anything.

 

[SHOdded]

Pull codes to get a better idea. If a 2013, it could be a right halfshaft issue. Could also be a fuel pump control module issue. Trans sensor issues. Or more "hard" issues like failed AWD components, internal trans damage, etc.

 

[Laser411]

They said it's an internal failure of the transmission. Looks like I'm either going to have to either scrap the car or park it and work on it through the course of several months. If I go the latter route, I am probably going to swap the turbos out for AJP's and drop the entire engine and overhaul everything. This is really going to suck....

 

[SM105K]

They said it's an internal failure of the transmission. Looks like I'm either going to have to either scrap the car or park it and work on it through the course of several months. If I go the latter route, I am probably going to swap the turbos out for AJP's and drop the entire engine and overhaul everything. This is really going to suck....

Bet you lost a snap ring....just like me.

 

[Laser411]

I'll let you know when they finish tearing it down. Looking for the answer to a few questions and I might be better served by starting a new thread but here goes (It's a bumpy mind dump):


-Does LMS sell their engines pre-built or do they only make the modifications to your existing core?
-If they sell complete, upgraded engines, about how much are they?
-Does the PP rear diff need a different PTU or does the rear differential clutch pack/coupling deal with the difference in gearing? Essentially, if I swap out to a PP diff, is there anything else I need to do?
-Does anyone make a lighter/better rear driveshaft?
-Does anyone make a better radiator?
-What else might be a good idea to upgrade/replace if/when my car is in shambles?

I'm weighing my options here and attempting to build a budge, the car is high mileage and if I am going to replace the steering rack and transmission, I might as well build it up.

I found a lifetime warranty rack: https://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow...8DuDKpgU3bFcyfOBZcFQDOoG-ATJwSpBoCwj4QAvD_BwE

Upgraded transmission:
https://spprecision.com/products/6f...HfH1wKMcy_iP9U38EastoD1yZgqSwnRBoCf4sQAvD_BwE

Might as well do turbos:
https://www.stage3motorsports.com/A...us-SHO-EcoBoost-ATP-Turbocharger-Upgrade.html

Needs:
-Upgraded transmission
-Steering rack
-Timing cover gasket
-Catch can

Should do while apart:
-New PTU (Any companies make an upgraded/beefed up PTU?)
-Intercooler and piping upgrade

Maybe's:
-LMS engine (maybe)
-ATP turbos (maybe)
-PP Rear differential (Mine whines)
-Meth Injection (maybe)
-Tuning (obviously a requirement with the rest)

Thoughts?

 

[Johnbigdog]

The p.p. ptu has a different part due to the attached cooler. I know the p.p. has different gearing. I looked up the rear diff on my cars vin and when I turn the vin filter off, there are 2 rear diff part numbers.

If the ptu was the change in hearing, no need for 2 rear differentials I would think?

I will mention if you tune your car, the non performance package gearing is faster once both cars are tuned due to the non p.p. requiring one less shift.

And that trans shop with the 5f50 may just be building the internals to a 6f55 transmission level and calling it an upgrade.

I dont know the exact differences between the two.