RonPorter
SHO Club of America
Removing the cams is a WHOLE lot of extra work. The bulk of the time in a camweld is removing the intake and other parts to get to them. Experienced guys like Eric or Kirk can probably do it in no time, in their sleep.
Can weld
- Thread starter SLOWgod
- Start date
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luigisho
SHO Member
Yeah I know. I had him transport a car for me a few years ago. I thought if he was still doing that and not too far on a transport run maybe a quick stop for a few extra $ on a transport run.
With correct instructions a good experienced welder can run these off with little problem I would imagine. 3 clean welds on each cam
https://v8sho.com/SHO/CamWeldDetails.htm
https://v8sho.com/SHO/CamWeldingTechnique.htm
Will they do it inside the motor ?The Wop Shop in Houston can do it! I have a friend/builder that had his coyote cams welded there so I know they are comfortable do it.
562 DILLON ST
Houston, Texas 77061
(713) 645-4000
E1
Crash Tested
You already have a set of welded cams in the OTHER motor. Swap them into the new motor while they are out of the car. Timing info on V8SHO.com
stephen newberg
SHO Member
Though cam sprocket welding requires caution, any good welder aware that the cams are hollow should be able to do it for you. Its simply not that difficult. If you look around here:
https://www.v8sho.com/SHO/96shohome.html
you should be able to find both descriptive material and photos of cam weld projects to use as a guide.
smn
https://www.v8sho.com/SHO/96shohome.html
you should be able to find both descriptive material and photos of cam weld projects to use as a guide.
smn
Jbeck
I have NO IDEA what I'm doing!!
I dont know if they will inside the motor or not you will have to call them BUT they are a racing engine building shop so they can remove and reinstall after if necessary ….they can handle it....very good reputation for engine builders in Houston.
Welp he said no
Jbeck
I have NO IDEA what I'm doing!!
Whaaaaaat? Houston has let me down! wtf?
RonPorter
SHO Club of America
Do as Eric suggested. Maybe pull the cams from the dead motor at your leisure, then pay someone to install them, if you don't have the time.
Then send out the removed cams to get welded, as spares.
Then send out the removed cams to get welded, as spares.
GEN 3 SHO FAN
SHO Member
Geezz, it's so complicated... It's seems that many mechanics are afraid by our mighty V8... 
Poor Edgardo, I understand that you could have some stress and panic here...
The cams can be weld in place, without touching on the timing of the engine. Also, the entire job could be done for a fair price if you're good in mechanic. You can do some of it unbolting the surge tank and the valve covers.
You just have to find an experienced mechanic (30 years career is good), itsn't important if he knows or not our particular engine. Just be sure he is experienced also with the MIG welding technique (and equiped to do it as well). The nearer the better. It's cost me 270$ CA.
If you're willing to PM me an email, I made a Word document with many photos kept here and there (V8SHO.com) when I did mines.
1) Unbolt surge tank and valve covers (Word document), you could take the occasion to replace spark plugs, valve cover gaskets and coils by the way (or the return of the car)
2) Call your mechanic for a towing at his garage.
3) Cleaning the cams : at that time, we only cleaned the end of the cam and the sprocket
with a cloth, try to retreive most of the oil in the bottom of each valve chamber to prevent fire. You can also put clothes or something else to prevent dirt falling there (if so, retreive them before step 6).
4) Let all the chains and sprockets in place, this will help you later.
5) Welding : weld yours cams "by point" not with a continuous welding all around the cam. Why ? Because of thermal dilatation. A too "constrictive" weld could break loose or break the cam. Four "points" around the cam will be ok as I rode here and there.
5.5) Be aware that you have an octogonal part on one cam just beside the sprocket (don't remember which sadly), for this cam, you need to weld the sprocket on the octogonal part and then weld this part on the cam. (The octogonal part is also only pressed on place and could turn over the cam like the sprockets.)
6) Welding (part 2) : Now, your cams are welded on the top half. To access the bottom half, take your key and give it a very short turn. The starter is your friend.
7) Same as step 5
8) Towing the car to your home. (Then, you could do some other jobs like putting protection on rear head wiring harness.)
9) Rebolting (Word document)
If the mechanic you found is a little bit far or if you're not so good in mechanic, the towing option become less interesting but stills be the safier way. (Mine was at 3 km from home.) Better at this point to unbolt and rebolt at the garage.
If you think that is complicated, I strongly suggest to anyone reading this to not buy any Ford with a 4.0L. One of my friend has a Ranger with this engine. It seems their timing are reputed to break, more precisely their tensionners... whose are placed at the bottom of the engine... one in front and one in the rear... This last one needs to retreive the engine from his bay to be replaced... My friend was lucky, he had the front broken (1500$ CA).
May the force be with you,
P.S. It will be more pratical if I could put somewhere on this site my document for the sake of others new owners...
Poor Edgardo, I understand that you could have some stress and panic here...
The cams can be weld in place, without touching on the timing of the engine. Also, the entire job could be done for a fair price if you're good in mechanic. You can do some of it unbolting the surge tank and the valve covers.
You just have to find an experienced mechanic (30 years career is good), itsn't important if he knows or not our particular engine. Just be sure he is experienced also with the MIG welding technique (and equiped to do it as well). The nearer the better. It's cost me 270$ CA.
If you're willing to PM me an email, I made a Word document with many photos kept here and there (V8SHO.com) when I did mines.
1) Unbolt surge tank and valve covers (Word document), you could take the occasion to replace spark plugs, valve cover gaskets and coils by the way (or the return of the car)
2) Call your mechanic for a towing at his garage.
3) Cleaning the cams : at that time, we only cleaned the end of the cam and the sprocket
with a cloth, try to retreive most of the oil in the bottom of each valve chamber to prevent fire. You can also put clothes or something else to prevent dirt falling there (if so, retreive them before step 6).
4) Let all the chains and sprockets in place, this will help you later.
5) Welding : weld yours cams "by point" not with a continuous welding all around the cam. Why ? Because of thermal dilatation. A too "constrictive" weld could break loose or break the cam. Four "points" around the cam will be ok as I rode here and there.
5.5) Be aware that you have an octogonal part on one cam just beside the sprocket (don't remember which sadly), for this cam, you need to weld the sprocket on the octogonal part and then weld this part on the cam. (The octogonal part is also only pressed on place and could turn over the cam like the sprockets.)
6) Welding (part 2) : Now, your cams are welded on the top half. To access the bottom half, take your key and give it a very short turn. The starter is your friend.
7) Same as step 5
8) Towing the car to your home. (Then, you could do some other jobs like putting protection on rear head wiring harness.)
9) Rebolting (Word document)
If the mechanic you found is a little bit far or if you're not so good in mechanic, the towing option become less interesting but stills be the safier way. (Mine was at 3 km from home.) Better at this point to unbolt and rebolt at the garage.
If you think that is complicated, I strongly suggest to anyone reading this to not buy any Ford with a 4.0L. One of my friend has a Ranger with this engine. It seems their timing are reputed to break, more precisely their tensionners... whose are placed at the bottom of the engine... one in front and one in the rear... This last one needs to retreive the engine from his bay to be replaced... My friend was lucky, he had the front broken (1500$ CA).
May the force be with you,
P.S. It will be more pratical if I could put somewhere on this site my document for the sake of others new owners...
Last edited:
Geezz, it's so complicated... It's seems that mechanics fear our mighty V8...
Poor Edgardo, I understand that you could have some stress and panic here...
The cams can be weld in place, without touching on the timing of the engine. Also, the entire job could be done for a fair price if you're good in mechanic. You can do some of it unbolting the surge tank and the valve covers.
You just have to find an experienced mechanic (30 years career is good), itsn't important if he knows or not our particular engine. Just be sure he is experienced also with the MIG welding technique (and equiped to do it as well). The nearer the better. It's cost me 270$ CA.
If you're willing to PM me an email, I made a Word document with many photos kept here and there (V8SHO.com) when I did mines.
1) Unbolt surge tank and valve covers (Word document), you could take the occasion to replace spark plugs, valve cover gaskets and coils by the way (or the return of the car)
2) Call your mechanic for a towing at his garage.
3) Cleaning the cams : at that time, we only cleaned the end of the cam and the sprocket
with a cloth, try to retreive most of the oil in the bottom of each valve chamber to prevent fire. You can also put clothes or something else to prevent dirt falling there (if so, retreive them before step 6).
4) Let all the chains and sprockets in place, this will help you later.
5) Welding : weld yours cams "by point" not with a continuous welding all around the cam. Why ? Because of thermal dilatation. A too "constrictive" weld could break or break the cam. Four "points" around the cam will be ok as I rode here and there.
5.5) Be aware that you have an octogonal part on one cam just beside the sprocket (don't remember which sadly), for this cam, you need to weld the sprocket on the octogonal part and then weld this part on the cam. (The octogonal part is also only pressed on place and could turn over the cam like the sprockets.)
6) Welding (part 2) : Now, your cams are welded on the top half. To access the bottom half, take your key and give it a very short turn. The starter is your friend.
7) Same as step 5
8) Towing the car to your home
9) Rebolting (Word document)
If the mechanic you found is a little bit far or if you're not so good in mechanic, the towing option become less interesting. (Mine was at 3 km from home.) Better at this point to unbolt and rebolt at the garage.
Be the force be with you,
what if I drove it there let it sit for a while then disassemble everything clean up the end of the cam. I didn’t know it would be this hard lol
gamefanatic
SHO Member
Yeah my Bro welded mine and didn't even know these cars came with V8's until I drove it to him right after purchase. He had done this on numerous GM's back in the late 90's, same issue. Its just a problem with the process.
GEN 3 SHO FAN
SHO Member
@EdgardoGValadez
Isn't so hard with the photos.
I'm not sure what you mean, drove it where, to the garage ? If so, some mechanics will let you do this (working in their parking, some don't. Mostly for insurance problems.
And don't forget the more you run with it, the more chance you take to break almost the half of your engine ($$$). Yours seems in real good shape, it will bad to lost it with this well known problem.
I offert you my document freely. As I'm also an SHO owner and try to help my "road brothers".
Isn't so hard with the photos.
I'm not sure what you mean, drove it where, to the garage ? If so, some mechanics will let you do this (working in their parking, some don't. Mostly for insurance problems.
And don't forget the more you run with it, the more chance you take to break almost the half of your engine ($$$). Yours seems in real good shape, it will bad to lost it with this well known problem.
I offert you my document freely. As I'm also an SHO owner and try to help my "road brothers".
Last edited:
GEN 3 SHO FAN
SHO Member
Document sent.
