Body Work supplies

[925spdsho]

Hey I was wondering what all i would need to do some simple body work, the guy i bought my sho from started some it of, but it still needs finished.

So what i want to know is that kinda of bondo and filler and hardner and whatever else will i need to get this all fixed up to be painted??


Thanks, Jim

 

[yzstud]

assorted grits of sandpaper like: 36, 60, 120, 220( bondo work)
some 320, 400 and 600 and some scotch brite scuff pads( to scuff up the paint)
some 1000 1500 2000(for the fine finish touches)

some bondo if it needs it(bondo also comes with the hardener)
bondo spreader
i would look into a DA as well as a straight line sander
you don't have to buy a DA, u can just sand the whole car by hand if you feel u can take the pain
and a straight line sander may not be necessary if ur skilled enough to take even amounts of filler down on the car at once

a board to mix the bondo on, ie cardboard plexi glass or whatever
some glazing putty for very light rock chips or you can gradually just feather them out into the body with sandpaper but i prefer my glazing putty

2 rolls of masking tape for the paper
at least one roll of some fine line tape
some razor blades or an exacto knife
sanding blocks

it depends how much you know how or want to do

 

[925spdsho]

well the only places i have to touch up are the rear fenders right above the wheels, i would say the spots are alike 7" long and 3"wide on both sides on the car. They arent huge so i dont think i would need that much.

 

[jthod]

Fixing rust are we?

Get rid of as much as possible, prime with rust killer/preventer, and have fun with the old Bondo.

Before you prime the Bondo, make sure it's glass smooth. Last time I used it, I though I had the Bondo smooth, after priming, I realized I didn't get it as smooth as I thought. Wow, that's a long sentence with a lot of I's.

The smoother you get the Bondo on the first application the better, unless you like sanding.

If you're trying to touch up those areas, it's better not to tape a line directly around it, you'll see it plain as day. But do tape off the obvious other things, like the tires.

A little overspray generally won't harm much, and it will probably buff right off.

I think we all need to see before and after pics.

I forgot to when I did mine. Both of the corners on my rear bumper and the cladding just in front of the rear wheels were down to black. I spent several hours wet sanding, priming and painting. The after pics are in the link on my sig.

Good luck. I hope you like the scent of lacquer based paint.

 

[hawkeye18]

I would add a dremel + attachments. Perhaps even a 1/4" die grinder if you have an air compressor. They come in soooooooo handy for the detail work.

 

[Brett]

There really is no short list of things needed to do bodywork. The crappy thing is if you wanna "dabble" in it to its fullest extent, your looking at alot of money for supplies. Once you've got said supplies its not so bad, just buying perishable things like bondo, sand paper etc. but that initial buy of needed equipment really puts a dent in your wallet.

Painting is fun, its also pretty easy, just about anyone could paint a car. The body work and the wet sand/buff is where you make or break a paint job. The actual body work aspect sucks, its boring, repetitive and you get sick of it quick. Take your time and walk away when you need to, dont set a time limit and it'll come out just fine, as long as you take, your, time. :wave:

 

[925spdsho]

Yeah I just need to fix some rest spots on the rear fenders. And eventually get a new hood for it.

 

[jthod]

Spray cans are the way to go for the small stuff like what you are doing, but the hood you may consider spending a little more, if you do need to paint it. Using a cup gun with an aircompressor is prettt simple, relativly inexpensive ($30-$50 for a cheap one), and they are easy to find.

The paint gets pretty pricey. A 'great' system enough to do a hood, primer, paint, hardner, and clearcoat, from Sherwin-Williams (where I work) will run about $200 for everything. You can get cheaper stuff, but a hood is not a place where you want to skimp. I'm sure a system cheaper than $200, will probably give pretty good results, and you may want to practice on a scrap hood before yo tackle a good one.

Just like any kind of painting, It's all in the prep work.

 

[925spdsho]

Good point, but I think the hood is past trying to fix. So i might eventually hit up a junk yard and see what they have.

 

[jthod]

Yeah, trying to fix a hood and have it look new is pretty tough, even if it's something small.

Hey, what better time to get a CF hood.

 

[925spdsho]

i wish! have two young kids and a crappy job, makes that impossible, but i can always dream :frantic:

 

[HoustinoJillian]

pittsburgh, eh? where at? i'm in shadyside/oakland.. and currently go to school downtown at duquesne. i have a similar repair to do some time in the future as well. danged rustbelt salted roads.

 

[925spdsho]

pittsburgh, eh? where at? i'm in shadyside/oakland.. and currently go to school downtown at duquesne. i have a similar repair to do some time in the future as well. danged rustbelt salted roads.

Yeah well near pittsburgh, i live in mckees rocks, and i work in robinson twp.

 

[bubba]

About a gallon of bondo 40 & 80 grit stick on. Sanding block. Die grinder (for the small stuff) gravity guns are the way to go.

This is just a small list.


I love bodywork

 

[Calypso]

Yeah, get rid of as much of the rust as possible, if not all. Then paint it with rust-proofing primer or POR-15 or whatnot (not sure if you can paint over that or not)...

If you don't then rust WILL come back to haunt you...