ok this is kinda to the point where its embarrasing. somehow, the previous owner didnt relize that a big hole was rusting out behind the license plate. ill try to get pictures later if anybody needs them to help me. how would i go about getting rid of this rust, as its on the body and obviously cant just buy a part to replace it.
big hole.
- Thread starter rcsavage
- Start date
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Cheap & fast
Cut it out, and if doable, use some adhesive backing screen then bondo and paint it. Or, fiberglass it. Thankfully it doesn't have to be perfect since it's hidden (I think)
That would be the easiest way.
Cut it out, and if doable, use some adhesive backing screen then bondo and paint it. Or, fiberglass it. Thankfully it doesn't have to be perfect since it's hidden (I think)
That would be the easiest way.
rangerj
Active Member
The best way to fix a hole in sheet metal is to MIG weld sheet metal in place of the rusted metal. The repair spot is then finished with a professional quality auto body epoxy putty (often referred to as Bondo).
On the pre 1960s auto we would use lead solder, but the body putties made today are far supperior to the old "Bondo" back then, and the thin sheet metal on todays cars will warp when heated much easier than the thicker (heavier) old sheet metal. (This is why a MIG welder is used- ie less heat)
There is a relatively new adheisive that can be used to glue new sheet metal in place, as opposed to welding. Look in the Eastwood web site for the body repair kit that has the adheisive, ****** tool. rivet countersinking tool, and a few other things for making this kind of repair. (www.eastwood.com)
"No weld repair kit" number 31102" You would also need a caulking gun, pop riveter, and rivets. The caulking gun is a couple bucks at Home Depot, as are a box of stainless steel rivets. You can also get a professional grade of body putty from eastwood in a small quantity (quart). Pop riveter = SEARS at about $15
I use a cut-off wheel on a die grinder to cut away the rusted metal, but sheet metal shears can be used if the area is large enough to work in. Try not to distort the metal in the surrounding area. You can get sheet metal in most body shops or auto parts stores. A body shop may let you cut a piece of sheet metal off of a damaged car part that they removed and are going to scrap.
If you do not want to try the above, you could just let a body shop make the repair.
On the pre 1960s auto we would use lead solder, but the body putties made today are far supperior to the old "Bondo" back then, and the thin sheet metal on todays cars will warp when heated much easier than the thicker (heavier) old sheet metal. (This is why a MIG welder is used- ie less heat)
There is a relatively new adheisive that can be used to glue new sheet metal in place, as opposed to welding. Look in the Eastwood web site for the body repair kit that has the adheisive, ****** tool. rivet countersinking tool, and a few other things for making this kind of repair. (www.eastwood.com)
"No weld repair kit" number 31102" You would also need a caulking gun, pop riveter, and rivets. The caulking gun is a couple bucks at Home Depot, as are a box of stainless steel rivets. You can also get a professional grade of body putty from eastwood in a small quantity (quart). Pop riveter = SEARS at about $15
I use a cut-off wheel on a die grinder to cut away the rusted metal, but sheet metal shears can be used if the area is large enough to work in. Try not to distort the metal in the surrounding area. You can get sheet metal in most body shops or auto parts stores. A body shop may let you cut a piece of sheet metal off of a damaged car part that they removed and are going to scrap.
If you do not want to try the above, you could just let a body shop make the repair.
ya im only 15 right now. and my dad and i are pretty handy but this is starting to sound like to much work for the tools we have. how much would be an accepable price to repair the damaged area? if anyone wants pictures, ask.
DHMag
Free At Last
cut out the rust, ALL of the rust. then tack in your cut-to-fit replacement panel. tack weld it continuously at opposite sides until a solid bead is formed. this minimizes warping of the sheet metal. grind, fill, smooth, fill again, smooth again, paint.
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