Battery Light is on after alt replacement

[NEp8ntballer]

My battery light came on last night when I started it up to leave work. I borrowed a multimeter from the auto hobby shop and it was at 12.x volts so the alt wasn't charging. I got it home and the battery had dropped to about 11.5V. I threw it on the charger to get it back up to ***** and called around to try and find a new alternator. O'reilly was able to get one in for me this afternoon and after the swap the battery light was still on. this one charges at 14.2-14.4 so that's working. Not sure on amperage though. I think it may have taken the battery out though because it was reading over 13V after shutting it off. Thoughts? I forgot to have them test the alt before I made my way out the door.

 

[TimboSHO]

14.2-14.4 might be a bit high. The battery light will come on when it's both high and low. Looks like you need to keep looking for a working alternator.

 

[93markVIII]

14.2-14.4 is fine and won't hurt anything. my lincoln sits at 14.4 while running all the time. 12.8 while off, and slowly drops to 12.4 overnight.

the battery light may also be on because the car is seeing AC voltage.
the alt you just put in, a box store reman? probably has a junk diode plate.

 

[NEp8ntballer]

O'reilly part reman in Malaysia... from the way the description is worded they replaced everything but the regulator. batt is at 12.9V. it also started to make a bit of noise once the bearings warmed up. I'm probably gonna drive on this one until I get a new mfg unit delivered.

 

[Phoenix]

14,4 is the ideal Voltage engine on.

If the light goes on , there is something wrong with your alt , it may not be the Volts , it may be the amps , or a diode is not good.

If your wiring is good , that batt light doesnt come on for fun.

 

[rubydist]

"if your wiring is good" is the key phrase there - make sure all connections are proper and no broken wires, etc.

 

[Ishodu]

Likely a bad diode in the new alt.

 

[NEp8ntballer]

it was working up until friday night and then it was no longer charging and now the voltage with the vehicle on is solid. I took it to NAPA and from on vehicle testing it tested within specs as far as voltage is concerned but they're getting me a reman in the USA alt so we'll see how it does. The O'reilly part was reman in Malaysia and had dust on the top of the box so it was sitting for awhile. and it's more of a flicker at idle instead of being solid.

 

[zblackbeast]

Yeah, it sounds like the apms are off.

Sadly, at my work the testers I have only test. Votage, which is quite annoying when trying to figure out why someones battey tests good, but when driving won't hold a good charge.

 

[NEp8ntballer]

Against my better judgement I drove to Santa Rosa and back today putting over 250 miles on the car. Made a couple stops along the way as well. I shut it off and started it again when I got home. The battery is still at 13.2V and voltage when the car is on is 14.2-14.4. It'll work until I get the new one in but it seems like it'll work in the short term.

 

[NEp8ntballer]

NAPA premium alternator went in today and resolved the issue.

 

[hawkeye18]

You mean alternator? The starter won't cause the battery light to come on...

 

[NEp8ntballer]

I have no ******* clue how alternator turned into starter so I'm just gonna blame the concussion.

 

[hawkeye18]

I have no ******* clue how alternator turned into starter so I'm just gonna blame the concussion.

Haha, sounds good